The Fiero Store Cat Kit (Page 1/2)
Notorio MAY 17, 07:53 PM
First, someone please tell me who invented the slip-pipe and clamp method for exhaust systems so I can go and dance on their grave ...

I really like the design and quality of TFS cat kit. Nice job, Matt!

Ok, so,in cutting the old cat off (turns out it was NOT the OEM unit) I managed to scar the pipe surface that the new cat will clamp onto. If you look at the Red Arrow below, my cutter almost penetrated the wall where the arrow starts on the Right and gets shallower going towards the Left, where it peters out such that you can barely feel anything has happened to the surface. Do folks think I should apply an Exhaust Sealer of some sort there, just to be sure there won't be a leak??

Also, looking at the new cat below, I'd like to confirm that the Double Arrows indicate it can go on either way (i.e. there is no In and Out) and that the side with the Heat Shield gets installed toward the Ground, yes?

Many Thanks.



[This message has been edited by Notorio (edited 05-17-2022).]

hunter29 MAY 17, 08:01 PM
How did you cut the pipe?
Notorio MAY 17, 10:01 PM

quote
Originally posted by hunter29:

How did you cut the pipe?



Dremel with cut off wheel. Really worked well.
Patrick MAY 17, 10:04 PM

quote
Originally posted by Notorio:

...and that the side with the Heat Shield gets installed toward the Ground, yes?



Only if you're concerned about melting the pavement.

hunter29 MAY 17, 10:37 PM
Dremel , no kidding..
theogre MAY 18, 01:52 AM
Note: When using exhaust clamps... You slot the outer pipe. GM FSM and more tells you this but no-one looks.
GM say 2 slots but I use 3 small slots 120° apart. Even before exhaust cement, the clamp forces the slot to closes.

If your stuck w/ "cheap" clamps, any like the pic, use 2 180° and very close to each other. This gives enough force w/o bend/breaking the clamp, strip threads, etc. You need that because hanger springs and heat cycles want to pull the joints apart.



quote
Originally posted by hunter29:
Dremel , no kidding..

Dremel and related have several types of abrasive cut-off wheels and different models of tools too.
While base grade, IE cheap ones, works they often won't last long.

I often use "Heavy Duty" wheels (Dremel 420 15/16" HD wheel) for exhaust pipes because won't break just looking at it. But for clamp method above use thin wheel first.

Side note: Even YT "Project Farm" screws up reviews... Dremel 4000 is a lot different then "Cheap" HF and others. Even different then lower models of Dremel.

Some parts like Planer PL400 (discontinued I think) only fits 4000, 400xpr and related because that tool is made tougher.

And really need variable speed for many "blts" in different materials. More so if you have flex shaft attachment.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Notorio MAY 19, 12:27 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Only if you're concerned about melting the pavement.



That's interesting because the old cat had the shield toward the ground --- I was thinking that is to protect against starting fires parking over leaves, etc. So, shield goes Up to protect the car.
Notorio MAY 19, 12:29 AM

quote
Originally posted by hunter29:

Dremel , no kidding..



Like Ogre said, I used the 4000 dremel so it had plenty of torque.

Ogre, I never heard about the business of slotting the pipes. If the old non-OEM cat had been slotted I can see that it would have been much easier to remove. How long do the slots need to be?

[This message has been edited by Notorio (edited 05-19-2022).]

Notorio MAY 19, 12:37 AM
The SS clamps supplied by TFS look and feel really sturdy compared to what I took off the old cat. I like how the nut mating surface is canted to pull the clamp ends inward.



I'm hoping I can get time to finish this on Saturday.
theogre MAY 19, 06:31 PM

quote
Originally posted by Notorio:
Ogre, I never heard about the business of slotting the pipes. If the old non-OEM cat had been slotted I can see that it would have been much easier to remove. How long do the slots need to be?

Is kind of a guess depending on clamps used and how close the pips fits.
In general, I cut the slots just long enough so the clamp, or 2, can work and close the metal too.
But last time inner was smaller and had more play so cut a little longer slot w/ HD wheel.

I have many "Dremal" of different types and most will cut exhaust pipes but many will wear out because how made and/or user abuse.
Ever Dremal brand can weak nose bearings and more so on lower tier models.
This problem when users try to force whatever bit to cut "Faster" etc.