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| Best Brake Option (Page 1/2) |
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Mxzx
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MAY 25, 08:41 AM
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I have a V-8 converted '88 GT and the brakes suck! Stock brake booster, master cylinder, and calipers. It does have slotted rotors. I have 17" wheels in front and 18" in rear, and there is at least 2.5" clearance from edge of stock rotors to wheels.
I also have relatively low vacuum at idle {7"} which I believe is due to the cam that was installed prior to my ownership. I have not added an accumulator can or vacuum pump yet.
What is my best bang for the buck for better bigger brakes?
Thanks
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Dennis LaGrua
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MAY 25, 10:52 AM
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I would be very cautious about changing the brakes unless you replace and match the entire system. You could use Corvette rotors and wheel cylinders with the adapters but compatibility with the Fiero master cylinder and booster is not optimal. As for best, I don't believe that we have established that here. ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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Larryinkc
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MAY 25, 11:26 AM
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theogre
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MAY 25, 11:38 AM
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⚠️ Warning: All Vac Boosters Need ~ 18 to 21 in/Hg Vacuum to work.
1. This Low Vac Is root cause or big reason Why your "Brake suck" and No "brake upgrade" will fix this.
Same problem when people race in some types and Run Out of Vacuum because keep Engine RPM too High for too Long during the race.
Booster Internal Volume and the check valve keeps a Vac Reservoir to keep brakes Working for 1-3 times w/ engine off like engine dies on highway or engine at High RPM only for a bit of time.
So Racers w/ vac run out problems might could use vac tank to solve this but not you because never or rarely reach 18 to 21 in/Hg vac.
You likely need a Electric Vac Pump and Tank so Pump doesn't Run all the time.
They cost, often a lot w/ many starting > $300, to get good units that won't break soon. Often need proper Electric Power that handles whatever amps. (Many "stores" like Summit doesn't list Amps draw on most units.) If have wiring or other electric problems that alone can quickly fry vac pump and more. See my Cave, Electric Motors
1A. You have 87-88 Fiero means Booster Vac line and all fittings are 1/2" size not "Standard" 3/8" size used nearly all other vehicles. GM made this change because long length of the line... nearly 9 Feet vs 12-18 Inches in other cars. You have to plan and install plumbing more carefully because all aftermarket items will except 3/8".
2. Big Tires Won't help for Braking or other problems but you need to solve Low Vac before you do anything else to the brake system.
3. Sadly God knows what else is wrong with this car. You are likely been 1 or more people in a string of buyers that passes of F'd up car to next sucker. Like May have rusted out frame areas hidden by plastic body. Plus Many Engine Swaps have Electric and other problems too.
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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 05-25-2022).]
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olejoedad
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MAY 25, 11:47 AM
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Fieroguru has a 13" brake rotor setup for the 88's that uses the 88 calipers.
Best approach for an 88.
Brian has the kit on his 88, it is a phenomenal difference.
You need to get the vacuum right first!
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Mxzx
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MAY 25, 11:50 AM
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Thanks for the reply all.
As for this: 3. Sadly God knows what else is wrong with this car. You are likely been 1 or more people in a string of buyers that passes of F'd up car to next sucker. Like May have rusted out frame areas hidden by plastic body. Plus Many Engine Swaps have Electric and other problems too., there is not a spec of rust on the car. Olejoedad and
Brian have both personally seen the car and can vouch for that.
I am open to all ideas, thanks for the input!
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hunter29
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MAY 25, 12:15 PM
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How aggressive are the R 4-S pads ? Are they like Yellow Stuff , way more that any stock replacement pad from a major brand..
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Larryinkc
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MAY 25, 12:48 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by hunter29:
How aggressive are the R 4-S pads ? Are they like Yellow Stuff , way more that any stock replacement pad from a major brand.. |
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The friction level of the R4-S is 4.1 vs .6 for Yellow Stuff so they can't be as aggressive, I haven't used EBC pads on a car. They stop good for my needs and have almost no brake dust, my wheels have spun aluminum hoops that don't get along well with brake dust.
Here's what Porterfield says about the R4-S compound
High Performance Street
Brake Pads
For high performance and heavy duty street conditions the Porterfield R4-S compound remains a top performer in the realm of street/performance brake pads. With the R4-S compound giving a friction level up to .41. This is an amazingly fast stopping brake pad. Simply put, they will give you an impressive increase in stopping ability with very minimum amount of pedal effort. Perfect for prolonged everyday street driving while also being capable of enduring the most severe use without fade. It is also rotor friendly of course.
We have gone to great measures to ensure that the R4-S compound has the absolute lowest noise and dust levels possible, far below O.E.M. equipment or any other high performance brake material. The R4-S compound which has an overall win in the Baja 1000 is available for most models of cars, trucks, and SUV’s. Superb stopping power under heavy use. Great for occasional autocrossing, solo events, off road events and rallies. Perhaps one of the overall best performing, clean and quiet everyday high performance driving brake pad ever made.
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hunter29
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MAY 25, 01:30 PM
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Yeah I read up on them , looked for friction rating of the pads I have now. Under specification they list best, best and best.
What is that BS , best is not a specification.
Sorry I bought them for that reason alone,however I am happy with them.
I would like to find something really aggressive but Yellow Stuff is all I know of and there not available for an 86.[This message has been edited by hunter29 (edited 05-25-2022).]
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fieroguru
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MAY 25, 06:58 PM
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You might want to explore a mechanical or electric vacuum assist pump to help improve the available vacuum. This is step #1.
Once you are past that, evaluate the need for more stopping power.
I run Yellow stuff pads on my 88 (LS4/F40) and really like the initial bite and stopping power. Price and the dusting, not a huge fan of, but they stop like crazy.
I also run the 13" brake rotor upgrade that I developed 10 years ago for the 88s that keeps just about everything stock with the brake system, just larger rotors that deliver 33% more braking leverage from the stock calipers. Brake bias, calipers, parking brake, etc. - all remain stock.
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