While looking for a possible minor vacuum leak after I installing OEM Cruise Control functionality in my 87 GT, I was having a suspicion about the EGR solenoid/valve. Now, I'm not getting any SES codes (CODE 32) at all, and I did the forum repair on this device 6 years ago (no ohms, broken coil wire @ solder post along with adding RTV to seal some areas as a preventative measure), but I was getting some minor air passing through it while doing tests as recommended in the 87FSM flow chart. So I decided to open it up again. Even with the RTV I put at various water entry points, the coil was rusted over sooo bad and the shaft going into the air filter looked like a 100 year old rusty nail, that it was gonna soon eventually die on me and short itself out to the metal housing then to the mount then to the engine. Off to the Internet and PFF.

The good news is, there is an EGR solenoid available (NOS for other 80's vehicles) that is a perfect match for our 2.8 V6's (2.5 also?). Since most of us longtime Fiero lovers are pretty good DIY'ers, all you have to do is transfer 3 (three) parts from the old original Fiero EGR solenoid and install on the new.

Below is the info and what needs to be done. First off, the part numbers.
Fiero Original (unicorn, good luck finding one):
ACDelco 214-361
GM 10038324

Near EXACT replacements:
ACDelco 214-303
GM 25519958
(Was available on MANY 80's GM vehicles, this post is gonna be about this one)
--->>>As of 6/11/2022: eBay, I currently see over 30 of them NOS. 7 under $120, and one seller has over 20 but cost $350+<<<--- Search both ACDelco and GM part numbers.
As far as junk yard pulls, these are compatible vehicles that you can probably get a decent one.


ACDelco 214-305
GM unknown
(Edit: GM 25519960
(Edit: Standard Motor Products VS5
--->>>As of 6/11/2022: eBay, I currently see over 20 of them. Price ranging from $65 - $140<<<---
(Same as above but includes sensor-switch/solenoid mount)


ACDelco 214-366
GM 14089438
Standard Motor Products VS16
(1985-1989 Pontiac Firebird and 1985-1989 Chevrolet Camaro, this one includes the jumper hose and the 3 inlet/outlet pipe setup just like on the Original Fiero EGR solenoid. This one is another unicorn and all you'd have to transfer to this one from the Fiero is the mount and air filter.)

Let's begin. This is just a minor how-to. Most other info can be found in these links (and others) already on the forum.
(CODE 32 answers. dialup warning pics)
(How I repaired my EGR Solenoid and eliminated my Code 32)
(EGR Solenoid Easy Economical Replacement)
So here's whats on 'My Plate'




























(These 2 pictures are from my old coil and metal housing)
PUSH the coil out of the metal case entirely by applying pressure to the shaft sticking out, just enough to have the plastic tabs exposed and seal. Then push back into the metal case.


Put the block-off metal disc and spring back in.

Now, when the electromagnet coil is installed in the metal case/housing, I'm willing to bet a special press was used at the factory to put equal amounts of pressure on all 8 metal tabs. I found that after I was putting this one back together the first time, I had a small leak when I used a section of silicone hose and blew into it and applied suction while plugging the other 2 using 2 fingers wearing a rubber glove. I would do this several times as I was bending the metal tabs. I found that by pinching them across from one another was best. Took me the usual, 3 times, taking off putting back on to get it right.


The other way, I would always get a minor leak somewhere around the seal or where the 3 pipe adapter mates onto the solenoid housing.















I've been known to over-think things from time to time, but It's EXTREMELY advised to waterproof and seal this as you reassemble. In other PFF threads related to CODE-32 some have PLASTI-DIPPED theirs instead of using 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive or silicone RTV. I didn't have any PLASTI-DIP, so I used what I had. When I repaired my original EGR solenoid 6 years ago, I see where I went wrong and why it started getting more rusty then it was when I first took it apart. Originally I only put sealant where (1) The 2 wires go into the metal housing to the coil (2) Around the metal housing where the air-filter dead-stops and the wires come out under the plastic hump (3) All around the square of the sensor/switch/filter (4) Where the 2 wires go into the sensor/switch/filter enclosure. This go around I added sealant to go around where the coil goes into the metal case as shown in the pictures above (rusted inside metal coil housing picture).

Why GM decided to put this device directly below the coolant/thermostat house, I'll never know. From the vents above the battery (water), the engine coolant/thermostat housing )coolant/water), engine heat (plastic degradation/contraction), you should seal it some how.

Feel free to let me know of any errors, or other suggestions to contribute to this problematic component that may become extinct.
I'm no mechanic, just a guy who likes to tinker.

{Edited to add other compatible part numbers and eBay availability}
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Curtis

1987 Pontiac Fiero GT:
<Drives like a Go-Kart, handles like a roller coaster>

[This message has been edited by WonderBoy (edited 06-11-2022).]

[This message has been edited by BHall71 (edited 06-22-2023).]

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by WonderBoy (edited 06-27-2023).]