Trunk release solonoid rebuild? (Page 1/2)
donridenour3134 JUN 24, 05:53 PM
Has anyone ever tried to fix a bad trunk release solonoid? If so how did it go? What kind of problems did you run into? Or has anyone found a substitute from another application that works on the Fiero?
theogre JUN 24, 07:23 PM
You do know the solenoid only works w/ lid closed?
Even then some issues can cause it to not work?

How you adjust the latch and/or stricker loop on car can make the solenoid not working.
"Too Loose" and solenoid may "pop" but trunk seal etc is only "spring" and latch may not open.
"Too Tight" and solenoid may try to "pop" but latch binds and solenoid middle just can't move.

If some fool tried to lift the car by the trunk stricker then often have more problems because loop and frame attach to often have damage even if doesn't drop the car on someone.

Solenoid Rarely goes bad. Look for other wiring problems like iffy Switch when solenoid seems dead after above issues.
See my Cave, Trunk Release

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(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

donridenour3134 JUN 25, 12:32 AM
Thanks. I removed the solonoid and jumped the positive side of the battery directly to the terminal and then grounded the plunger end. Nothing. The solonoid should have activated, right?
fierosound JUN 26, 11:02 AM
If yours is dead, this may not help.

One local member had a similar problem, with intermittent operation of decklid release solenoid.
One day it would work, the next day it wouldn't - back and forth.

I removed it and shot Electronic Contact Cleaner through the thing from the wire connector end.
('86 and up have the deck ajar/light switch mounted to the decklid solenoid)
I kept testing it and eventually, the solenoid would work every time it was activated.




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theogre JUN 26, 09:13 PM

quote
Originally posted by donridenour3134:
Thanks. I removed the solonoid and jumped the positive side of the battery directly to the terminal and then grounded the plunger end. Nothing. The solonoid should have activated, right?

12v to wire/plug.
Ground to Solenoid Case or Latch when attach to it. Not the "plunger end."

You "tap" 12v only. Holding 12v will kill it and fast.

If dead then maybe 1 end broke/rotted. Don't know if or how to take apart to check/fix.

Other GM cars likely have same but I have no PN etc.
donridenour3134 JUN 27, 05:29 PM
Well, thanks for the help. The solenoid is good and the ground is good. I already checked the fuse but will check it again. I'll look back through your article for any other clues. Thanks, again.
fierosound JUN 27, 07:28 PM
Wiring diagrams also in Service Manuals.
http://fieroinfo.com/
Fie Ro JUN 28, 11:08 AM
I found the plunger was stuck and rusted in mine. Blew a fuse on my 12v powersupply when I tested. Got it working with WD40 and cleaning off the corrosion. On the car it needs good ground path from the solenoid to the chassis via the latch and loop. There may be grease or corrosion preventing a good ground.
IMSA GT JUN 28, 01:06 PM
I assume you checked the connector at the decklid hinge to make sure it is connected properly?
Eliredandblack JUN 29, 11:00 AM
Since this was not mentioned. On my 88 the parking brake must be engaged for the trunk release switch to operate. The ignition switch does not have to be on. You didn’t indicate the model year of your FIERO and I am not sure the operation will be the same for every year.