|
Where to hook-up hose to empty fuel tank? (Page 1/1) |
|
imacflier
|
JUN 30, 09:17 AM
|
|
Hi, Guys,
I need to drain my fuel tank prior to dropping it. Since I am old, fat, and disabled, I REALLY want to avoid crawling under my '88 GT as much as possible!
I know the traditional place to hook up a discharge hose is at the fuel filter, but that requires crawling under the car.....TWICE!
There just has to be somewhere on the top side of the engine that I can hook up a discharge hose and let the fuel pump do it thing.
Please tell me the easiest point to hook up that discharge hose! (Extra points for pics or FSM drawing references!)
TIA,
Larry
|
|
|
imacflier
|
JUN 30, 08:18 PM
|
|
Hi, Guys,
OK, in looking at the 22P I think the fuel feed line running from the fuel filter starts as a pipe attaching to the output of the fuel filter, becomes
a 3/8" rubber hose, running to the engine (it is not clear how the hose terminates)
I haven't physically looked yet (tomorrow's task), but is it reasonable to cut the hose somewhere before the schrader valve, hook-up my fuel
discharge line, empty the tank, and SPLICE the original hose where it was cut???
Sounds like it might just work to me, whatcha all think?????
TIA
Larry
|
|
|
Patrick
|
JUN 30, 08:29 PM
|
|
|
|
greenturnedblue
|
JUN 30, 08:32 PM
|
|
I wouldn't know how you would splice the rubber lines back together after you cut it but seems like a bad idea
|
|
|
theogre
|
JUL 01, 08:28 AM
|
|
You Don't Cut Lines.
Get under the car and Remove rubber hose.
Just splice rubber to "Siphon" hose using any tube scrap etc. Or if can reach clamps on tank side rubber then remove rubber and attach new hose to tank.
"Siphon" hose can be almost any hose but expect that will be crap because often gas "eats" it.
Small Hose clamps "nuts" are 1/4" not metric. (Bigger clamp "nuts" are 5/16" not metric.) Problem is tank side clamps are installed before installing the tank in the car and "nuts" are often pointed so hard to access because too close to frame to use most ratchets. Often even hard to access w/ small wrench.
If tank is under ~ ¼ don't bother emptying in the car. 2-3 gallon won't spill and isn't very heavy.------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
|
|
|
fierosound
|
JUL 05, 08:41 AM
|
|
|
|
greenturnedblue
|
JUL 05, 01:19 PM
|
|
wouldnt you also need to depress the little pin inside the valve to get it to open?
|
|
|
Patrick
|
JUL 05, 02:04 PM
|
|
quote | Originally posted by greenturnedblue:
wouldnt you also need to depress the little pin inside the valve to get it to open?
|
|
Not if it's been removed.
quote | Originally posted by fierosound:
Remove fuel rail schrader valve core (same as tire valve stem) where you'd normally connect a fuel pressure tester.
...reinstall schrader valve core before you forget and lose it.
|
|
|
|
|
sanderson231
|
JUL 05, 02:20 PM
|
|
greenturnedblue, you use a special tool to unscrew the core of the schraeder valve which has the pin.
I have run AN hose for fuel lines on engine swaps I have done. You can can unscrew the fuel hose at the connection coming from the tank at the lower fire wall. Summit sells an o-ring 16mm power steering adapter (<$10). The o-ring end will screw into the female connection from the tank. The male end is 6 AN. So if you have 6 AN hose and hose end laying around you are all set. I think that Summit also sells power steering adapters that are o-ring on one end and pipe thread on the other. Then use a barbed pipe thread adapter to attach a hose. The larger metal tubing to the fuel rail is the supply line.
|
|
|