Isuzu Clutch Slave Bleeder Screw Information (Page 1/1)
imacflier JUL 06, 08:19 PM
Hi, Guys!

I am going to replace my Rodney Dickman getrag slave cylinder with a Rodney Dickman Isuzu slave cylinder. Not because I am having trouble, but because I want to have less pedal travel required.

I could not seem to find definitive information as to the thread of the bleeder, so I asked Rodney. It is 10 x 1.0 mm straight thread.

While looking for speed bleeders, I discovered a company called, appropriately enough, SpeedBleeder. They make a bleeder with a built in check valve. As you can imagine, that bleeder will make one person bleeding of the slave not only possible but straightforward. Their part number for the stainless steel version is: SB1010S. Pictures are available on their site.

Betcha, in the right size, they would work great on brakes too! They are not particularly inexpensive at an EBay price of two for about $20 shipped.

Just thought you all might be interested.

Larry
theogre JUL 06, 11:32 PM
Speed Bleeders are made for "racing" and related where have to bleed often even every month to several times a month.

For normal street use that rarely bleed the brakes or hydro clutch, Speed bleeders made w/ steel or SS in Aluminum is often a bad plan.

All bleeders can problems but SB holds a lot more Brake Fluid between tip and ball that gets super wet then water will attack the parts.
Look up "Dissimilar metal corrosion"
The Fluid will continue to pull water right out of the air attacking the parts. Why? See my Cave, Brake Fluid

Even w/ normal bleeders there are steps to protect them so hopefully don't self weld to whatever to bleed.

Bleeding by 1 person is easy and w/o speed bleeders.
1. Remove the bleeder.
2. Coat threads w/ Permatex Brake Grease
3. Install bleeder finger tight.
4. If needed Loosen clutch slave so Bleeder is at the Top. Not even a little "Down Hill" from the piston. Alt: Jack the car so bleeder is at the top.
5. Install bleeder hose and whatever to dump excess fluid.
6. Just barely crack open the bleeder. A little pressure will push out fluid but resistance to suck fluid and air back in.
OR
6. Open the bleeder more and let gravity to bleed most brakes and hydro clutch.
Many prefer that or "power" or vac bleeding for brakes because old Brake MC often goes bad after "pedal bleeding." (See my Cave, Bleeding MC notes)
But Fiero and other FWD cars have clutch slaves mounted to high for that.

Coat thread w/ PBG protects from rust but also help sealing for vac bleeding.
4 maybe needed depending where you parked or has iffy motor/trans mounts.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave