Power drain and cycling switch (Page 1/2)
1MontanaFiero AUG 16, 12:06 AM
I'm noticing a power drain on my '86 GT that caught my attention when the dome light was dimming and brightening every 15 seconds or so. I listened closely and was able to trace the sound of a switch engaging and disengaging somewhere around the radiator, toward the bottom. It sounds "Springy" when it turns off. I can't tell what it's cycling, but it happens when the key is out of the ignition. Anybody know what this could be? I'm going to look at some schematics, and drive up on some ramps this weekend, but I'd like to know if this has been encountered by anyone else.
Patrick AUG 16, 12:27 AM

Disconnect the single wire connector to your headlight motors and see if the battery drain stops.
fierofool AUG 16, 12:01 PM
While the single wire is still connected, you may be able to identify which motor is the problem. The knob on top may twitch a little as the relay clicks.
theogre AUG 16, 12:18 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierofool:
While the single wire is still connected, you may be able to identify which motor is the problem. The knob on top may twitch a little as the relay clicks.

More likely the thermal "breaker" in the motor cycle off and on because of problems in the motor(s).

⚠️ Warning: If ignored, this can destroy the battery and other things or even start a fire.
Battery below 11-10v will shorten the life if even takes a charge after drain so low. Do Not Jump the battery! use 6-10 amp dumb charger. see battery in my cave.

In the mean time, Turn On HL to raise the bulbs Then Unplug the motors and leave them Up. If motor doesn't raise them, unplug them then use the knob to raise the bulbs.

If isn't the HL motors... see battery leaches in the cave. Get a small DC AMP Clamp from amazon etc. so don't have to take apart car wiring to track a leach.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 08-16-2022).]

1MontanaFiero AUG 17, 11:09 PM
Thank you, this was definitely the problem. Right headlight was twitching, so it’s now a winking car. What’s the recommended solution here for the headlight motor?

By the way, Ogre, too late on the battery. It was about 2Volts. I did charge it with an 8amp charger that I picked up on your advice, but it topped out at 12.06 Volts, so I’m running my smart charger in “recondition” mode to see if that helps any. Sigh.
Mike in Sydney AUG 18, 12:16 AM

quote
Originally posted by 1MontanaFiero:

Thank you, this was definitely the problem. Right headlight was twitching, so it’s now a winking car. What’s the recommended solution here for the headlight motor?




Rebuild the headlight motors or better still, convert to the GEN 2 headlight controller, motors, and wiring harness system from an '87 - '88 Fiero if you can find the parts. The system is much more reliable and you can buy new replacement motors.

If you decide to rebuild the existing motors you can get the parts from The Fiero Store or Rodney Dickman's. Instructions can be found in the archives. It's not hard to do. Takes about 2 hours per side if it's your first time.
theogre AUG 18, 10:37 AM
"Recondition" a battery by any means likely won't work or if does expect to not last long. More so if a starting battery drains under ~ 10 volts.

Stop charging, ready volts, let battery sit unconnected for several hours or longer, read volts again. If volts drop > 0.3 likely battery has a dead cell or all cells bad. If really dead cell, often you see 1 to 3 volts drop in seconds to minutes but test after several hours too.


quote
Originally posted by Mike in Sydney:
Rebuild the headlight motors or better still, convert to the GEN 2 headlight controller, motors, and wiring harness system from an '87 - '88 Fiero if you can find the parts. The system is much more reliable and you can buy new replacement motors.

If you decide to rebuild the existing motors you can get the parts from The Fiero Store or Rodney Dickman's. Instructions can be found in the archives. It's not hard to do. Takes about 2 hours per side if it's your first time.

Convert to Gen 2 with New motors is much better then "rebuilding." Cardone AZ and some others have New motors w/ lifetime Warranty.

Oh you can get parts to rebuild but often is harder then people think and "Nickle and dime" you to death for a system that was easy for GM to install but never good for owners causing above problem and more.

Some of us don't even fix/rebuild Gen 2 motors either for same reason. Even tho they can't drain the battery like Gen1 infamously do, fix/rebuild is harder then advertise too.
1MontanaFiero AUG 19, 08:13 PM
I’ve been checking junk yards, with not so much luck. However, my buddy has a 1995 firebird (which I may rob the motor from). Will those motors interchange?
Patrick AUG 19, 08:19 PM

quote
Originally posted by 1MontanaFiero:

...a 1995 firebird (which I may rob the motor from). Will those motors interchange?



Yes... if you follow Mike's advice.


quote
Originally posted by Mike in Sydney:

...better still, convert to the GEN 2 headlight controller, motors, and wiring harness system from an '87 - '88 Fiero if you can find the parts. The system is much more reliable and you can buy new replacement motors.
theogre AUG 19, 08:48 PM

quote
Originally posted by 1MontanaFiero:
I’ve been checking junk yards, with not so much luck. However, my buddy has a 1995 firebird (which I may rob the motor from). Will those motors interchange?

At minimum you need the Gen2 wiring, motors, bolts that mount the motors, and control module to use firebird parts.

some versions of the module may need more parts/time to fix up down or both wires to work right.

see http://fierocave.shorturl.com/hlmotor.htm & links at bottom