Temperature sensor for gauge (Page 1/2)
jaydaug2008 AUG 24, 07:10 AM
I'm looking for an alternative temperature sensor. I found the correct one. But the connector for it is like $30. Is there an alternative sensor I can use that will work for the gauge and light.? Thank you. Can you please include a part number. I would prefer using Amazon or ebay. Thank you
fierofool AUG 24, 09:26 AM
If they're trying to sell you a sensor with an oval head that requires splicing in a new harness, then it's the wrong sensor. The proper sensor has a round head and has a slit in the side of the plastic head.

This is the correct one
https://www.autozone.com/en...h-ts10051/445564_0_0
greenturnedblue AUG 24, 11:58 AM
Make sure you get the right one:



I got the WVE 1T1186 on Rockauto. works perfect
jaydaug2008 AUG 24, 12:51 PM
Can I find the pigtail connector at AutoZone eBay or Amazon advance Auto Parts? Part number would be awesome thank you
Romsk AUG 24, 01:11 PM
The sensor with the oval connector is the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) that the ECM uses to monitor Engine temperature. That is the one located on the Engine below the Raidiator Cap.

The sensor with the round connector is the Temperature Guage/Light Sensor (I call it the TGS). That one is located on the left side of the engine as you face it from the rear of the car.

I beleive they both use the same Thermistor inside but I think the screw-in thread diameters are different.

I think GM wanted a back-up on engine (coolant) Temperature so they used two sensors.

I am just about where you are. My Fiero is showing the CTS_VLO (Coolant Temp Sensor Voltage Low = High Temp Reading) Malfunction Flag in the ALDL data stream.
I am told these sensors normally open up and cause CTS_VHI (Low Temp Reading), so mine appears to be a short somewhere.

I may replace the sensor anyway since it is 35 years old. If I am forced to switch to a new connector (I hear that some people had to do that and some Sensors come supplied with the new connector)... I am going to splice in my own transition connector as well. This way I will have 2 short adapter cables that go from my lower cost transition connector, to the appropriate sensor (so I can use either type sensor with thier different connectors).


..........................Adapter Cable for the New Style Sensor Connector -----------v
ECM <-------> Transition Connector Female | Transition Connecter Male <---------> New Style Sensor Connector Female | New Style Sensor Connector

...................................Adapter Cable for the Old Style Sensor Connector-----v [kept handy in storage]
........................................................................Transition Connector Male <---------> Old Style Sensor Connector Female

------------------
Paul Romsky

[This message has been edited by Romsk (edited 08-24-2022).]

fierofool AUG 24, 01:41 PM
The thread diameter is the same for both. Many PFF Fiero folks have done the cut and splice deal because the parts houses have the wrong information in their database. They sell the ECM Coolant Temperature Sensor with 'upgraded' harness as the proper sensor for the Gauge Temperature Sensor. Then they find the gauge still doesn't work.

Jaydaug2008, why are you searching for the correct harness? Are you planning to cut the green and the green with white tracer wires and splicing in the harness for the oval head ECM Coolant Temperature Sensor? It will not work if installed and connected to the gauge and temperature idiot light. Can you post a picture of the sensor you're using? Where is the sensor located?

Look at greenturnedblue 's picture. If you're trying to resolve gauge issues, the sensor on the right is the one you need. If your plastic clip has broken off the two green wires, here is where you can get that plastic piece. No splicing is required. Just insert the wires and close the snap. http://rodneydickman.com/pr....php?products_id=174
greenturnedblue AUG 24, 02:48 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

Are you planning to cut the green and the green with white tracer wires and splicing in the harness for the oval head ECM Coolant Temperature Sensor? It will not work if installed and connected to the gauge and temperature idiot light.
[/URL]



P/O did this on my car and told me he couldnt figure out why the gauge didnt work. I wonder why? 🤔 Gosh I just dont know!

The correct pigtail for the Gauge sender (NOT ECM SENDER) is the WVE 1P1142, or ACDELCO PT2330, or STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS S649. Any of them will work just different brands. I dont live in America so I dont know what stores carry it you will have to do some searching yourself

[This message has been edited by greenturnedblue (edited 08-24-2022).]

jaydaug2008 AUG 24, 06:02 PM
Yes I bought the wrong sensor like a dummy and didn't realize this certain sensor is so special..I probably do have a ecm sensor in there. The gauge doesnt work...It flips around when I start it but it doesnt move after that.. so I am in the works of getting the correct one with the odd ball plug and put this nightmare to bed...Now when I get this sensor hopefully I hook the wires up correctly since they are probably going to be both black..
fierofool AUG 24, 06:25 PM
The wires for the gauge sensor are both green, but one of them has a white tracer. I don't have a car available to tell you which wire goes to which terminal, but maybe someone else can tell you.
Romsk AUG 24, 06:52 PM
If you purchased the wrong sensor, take it off and measure the resistance between the two pins at room ambient air temperature (about 25C or 77F) if it is not near zero Ohms or open then it is still good - its unlikely you damaged it but check anyway. I am guessing you will read about 25k Ohms, but I only have equations for the IAT (aka MAT) sensors and the CTS, I need to do an analysis on the Temp Guage Sensor (TGS) response.

Then, put it back in the box and put it on the shelf in a controlled environment (your personal stock).
When I was a bachelor, I kept just about every sensor, light bulb, fuse, tire, plugs, distributor cap, rotor, wires, and fluid on hand for the whole car. They generally don't go bad on the shelf and prices rarely drop over time - so they are a good investment for later down the road (no pun intended).