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| V8 Archie big brakes noise (Page 1/1) |
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WonderBoy
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SEP 10, 11:09 AM
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Have had Archie's bigger brakes upgrade on my baby since 2010 and have had a few issues since she's become my daily driver that I've noticed. Pinging/clanking like a bell when driving slowly (10-35mph). Coming from the front wheels. Goes away at times when I turn the steering wheel a bit, but hit a bump or imperfection in the road surface it comes back. (slight vibration/shakey ride also noticeable at highway speeds at times)
I've identified the problem and it seems that the outer pads are a little loose on the calipers. Drivers side front would make the noise while passenger side would squeak. The vibration/shakey ride at highway speeds probably due to the occasional drag of pad slightly making contact with rotor surface.
Got new Bosch all ceramic Camaro pads (Archie front calipers are 82-89 Camaro), cleaned everything thoroughly and lubricated. Everything was great for about 2 weeks, total silence and no vibration/shakey ride. Even mpg improved by 2 for my daily 1hr commute, but the clanking is starting to come back (but not so high pitched yet) along with the slight vibration/shakey ride. No squeaking though.
While I was installing the new pads I watched a few Camero videos on YouTube and followed those. Those outer pads sit loosely on the caliper and have to be held in place when you slip the caliper onto the rotors. Also, In the videos, the Camero has another piece of hardware that looks like it connects to the knuckle up top to stabilize the calipers:
Inner/outer bearings were replaced in 2019 (side making the clanking had 2 rollers on the outer bearing that were shot). Tightened them according to forum suggestions: hand tighten the nut while turning rotor then torque to 10/12lbs if I remember right. Looked at them again and they were good. When I did these pads 2 weeks ago, the rotors did have a slight little play in them, so I tightened them to the point so the rotor would free spin a little over 1 full rotation.
- Is my spindle shot/something bent?
- Something odd about the rotor?
- Do I need to bleed some more so the pad rides more closely to the rotors?
- Or do I need to bend the metal tabs on the pads to get them to pinch/hold tightly on the calipers?
Original Fiero front caliper pads have tabs to hold onto caliper:
Looking for where to look/investigate before I jack up and dissemble.
Thanks.------------------
Curtis
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT:
<Drives like a Go-Kart, handles like a roller coaster>
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theogre
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SEP 10, 01:37 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by WonderBoy:
Inner/outer bearings were replaced in 2019 (side making the clanking had 2 rollers on the outer bearing that were shot). Tightened them according to forum suggestions: hand tighten the nut while turning rotor then torque to 10/12lbs if I remember right. Looked at them again and they were good. When I did these pads 2 weeks ago, the rotors did have a slight little play in them, so I tightened them to the point so the rotor would free spin a little over 1 full rotation. |
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⚠️ Either Is Not Correct.
Any Pre-load will Damage Wheel Bearing and Fast in most cases. And not just Fiero or GM vehicles. Almost everything using same wheel bearing setup hates pre-load.
See my Cave, Front Bearings
Most Wheel Hub for Fiero Rear and FWD have no pre-load either when new ones are installed right and will have very small amount of Wheel Play too. Some hubs have Crush Sleeves between bearings or other issues and over torquing the axle nut will wreck the hub because creates pre-load bearings.
Secondary Problem w/ Noise can be simple as Rotor hitting other hardware or dirt shield. Can happen all the time, when turning the car, hitting a bump, etc. Often you have to take brakes apart and look for signs the metal hits whatever. Is likely going to have to check all brakes because where sounds seems to come from often lies.
You "upgraded" the brakes just make more problems because likely have wrong parts clearance/tolerance making the rotors to hit things easier.
But even w/ stock brakes, iffy manufacturing of replacement rotors may make the rotors to hit the dirt shield(s) while turning in the "hat" area. Worse in thing like highway entry/off ramps w/ long hard turns that can load sideways for a long time. That on top is easy to bend the dirt shields on most cars and/or rotor gets rust buildup and hit the shields in the middle or outside edge...------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
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Dennis LaGrua
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SEP 10, 03:31 PM
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I would guess this is the setup that was originally designed by Walt Zettner and implemented on Fieros by V8Archie. I have mixed feeling about this setup or if it improved braking with the stock master cylinder capacity but many owners like it. I cannot say if it works well or not ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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WonderBoy
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SEP 10, 04:54 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by theogre:
Secondary Problem w/ Noise can be simple as Rotor hitting other hardware or dirt shield. Can happen all the time, when turning the car, hitting a bump, etc. Often you have to take brakes apart and look for signs the metal hits whatever. Is likely going to have to check all brakes because where sounds seems to come from often lies.
You "upgraded" the brakes just make more problems because likely have wrong parts clearance/tolerance making the rotors to hit things easier.
But even w/ stock brakes, iffy manufacturing of replacement rotors may make the rotors to hit the dirt shield(s) while turning in the "hat" area. Worse in thing like highway entry/off ramps w/ long hard turns that can load sideways for a long time. That on top is easy to bend the dirt shields on most cars and/or rotor gets rust buildup and hit the shields in the middle or outside edge...
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No dust/dirt shields are in place since the -upgrade- required them to be removed for the bigger rotors. Primary reason I did the upgrade was to prepare for a future engine swap that never happened (yet).
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theogre
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SEP 11, 09:03 AM
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No shields but still have bolt heads etc that a rotor may hit when hat area is wrong for a car.
That ignoring "upgrade" rotors often have centering problems covered in my Cave, Brake Upgrade
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