Part Identification (Page 1/2)
Cunnive SEP 10, 10:11 PM

Can anyone tell me what this part is? Is there any chance these are common in hardware stores? If not, is there an alternative solution?



Thank you!
MichiganReefer SEP 10, 10:14 PM
Not sure on what assembly that part is on, but would a flanged bronze bushing work? I imagine it's a thru hole for a bolt or a pivot point?
Kitskaboodle SEP 10, 11:21 PM
Kind of looks like an alternator bracket.
Maybe it has a pressed in sleeve/bushing because that bracket may be used in other engine/alternator combinations?
Can’t you grind off the collar and add in a few appropriate washers to take up the space?
Kit
Cunnive SEP 11, 07:43 AM
Here is what that flange is on if that helps

[This message has been edited by Cunnive (edited 09-11-2022).]

theogre SEP 11, 08:53 AM
A bracket to attach what to what?

If it for an alternator...
Bracket likely doesn't enough room or otherwise too stiff to compress w/ long bolt and bushing make that pivot tight to:
1. give good ground to the alt.
2. make pivot to not pivot when bolt is tight. W/o that small bolt often have problems then belt often have problems.

It basically removes the need to use shims/washers to fill a gap in likely a hard place even to try that.

It broke likely because people over torque the bolt and/or "rust" make it do not move to replace OE alt w/ different tolerance on alt's case where long bolt lives.

You won't find this in hardware from auto parts or lowes etc.
Maybe Mcmaster-carr etc that dig thru specs and get something close.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 09-11-2022).]

Cunnive SEP 11, 01:05 PM
Here is the bracket assembled prior to disassembly. I believe this is the AC compressor bracket?

If this is something where I can just use washers then sounds good to me. I just wanted to make sure this wasn't something critical for the bracket.

[This message has been edited by Cunnive (edited 09-11-2022).]

Spoon SEP 11, 06:08 PM
Maybe that sleeve is used to prevent a reaction between dissimilar metals. Steel bolt against aluminum. Another purpose may be for centering the bolt thru a must larger hole to eliminate slop.

Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

RWDPLZ SEP 11, 06:36 PM
You know what that looks like? A door hinge pin bushing

https://www.autozone.com/co...E_QI-cwOF3nO9cxqpEW3 4prqVkFeC17z0P2AaAjeHEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
theogre SEP 11, 07:51 PM
So it is AC Pivot... While doesn't need a ground like the Alt does... same as I said above.

Compressor and front section of bracket are "setup" to locate the unit and thus pulley alignment.

Back w/ the bushing just support the unit. Bushing is used because the bracket can't compress like many alt bracket w/ long bolt. Plus Compressors have 3 parts you easy see that can change total length of pivot area because of Tolerance Stacking. (Use web search for term def.) You have Front and Rear case and Body in between and all can vary dimensions to ± X thousands of inches. The bushing is automatic way to "shim" the back of bracket to back of compressor.

If you try shimming here...
The unbroken part of the bushing is what doing the real work. Broke side just tries to push in till other end hit the compressor.
You DIY shimming and get it wrong can break the bracket.

Compressors w/ V belts often more then 1 short bolt in slotted holes (usually steel brackets for these) to keep a belt tight but still needs the pivot bolt and rear bushing working right too.

Replacement Bushing doesn't need to be total exact...
bushing total length could change a little. ID and OD needs same size. You don't have enough bracket metal to ream/drill to a bigger size OD. May seem to work but break later as compressor hammers it going over RR Track, potholes, etc.

Materials: Sintered Braze/Bronze maybe too weak and break like above.
no matter what is used, Lube outside w/ silicon or pematex brake grease to prevent bushing seize in the bracket.


quote
Originally posted by Spoon:
Maybe that sleeve is used to prevent a reaction between dissimilar metals. Steel bolt against aluminum. Another purpose may be for centering the bolt thru a must larger hole to eliminate slop.

Maybe part is no. A steel bolt touches Al part anywhere can same type of corrosion. Even the braze in Al can have same but less causing the bushing to freeze in the hole. Centering isn't important for this. Bushing acts more like brake sliders w/o the O-rings in the calipers.

E2A--> The Alt's long bolt is infamous dissimilar metals rot seizing the bolt so bad the "only option" most try is cutting the bolt when the Alt dies... Is why many coat bolt shaft w/ any grease. (Leave other areas clean so pivot can't turn when tight.)

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 09-11-2022).]

theogre SEP 11, 08:45 PM
If the bushing is seized in the bracket... careful heat them then spray w/ PB Blaster etc wait to cool then repeat.
Heat cycling helps the oil to wick in the parts.

Often same work in other places the alt's long bolt if can heat w/o causing a fire.

Don't need "red hot." just 150 - 200°F and let cool slow.