Waterpump replacement on 88 2.8 (Page 1/2)
lateFormula OCT 16, 09:12 PM
Been a while folks. I haven't touched my Fiero for several years, been in hibernation in the garage. It needs a new water pump and at the end of Sept I finally kicked myself hard enough to start the work. I've been spending an hour here and there on this, and today finally got all the screws/bolts out of the pump. I've been a bit shocked at how much R&R is required to remove the pump with the engine in the car. So far I've had to do this:
1) Remove PS rear wheel
2) Remove entire wheel well liner & splash guard.
3) Remove exhaust manifold heat shield near alternator.
4) Remove dog bone.
5) Remove dog bone bracket on engine.
6) Remove both rear sway bar end links (for alternator removal).
7) Remove alternator & belt. Luckily I've done this before and knew that the only way this was coming out of the engine compartment was through the wheel well.
8) Remove EGR vacuum controller.
9) Remove EGR controller bracket.
10) Remove alternator bracket.
11) Remove wire harness protector bracket on right side of water pump (on the 2 studs in the water pump).
12) Remove water pump pulley.
13) Install the little stamped metal piece to hold the timing cover in place when the pump is removed. The one that came with my pump was out of spec so I needed to do a bit of grinding on it so that I could attach it.
14) Remove the battery tray left side plastic panel for ease of access to the water pump screws/bolts.
15) Remove the 12 screws & bolts that fasten the water pump to the timing cover. Why God why, are there 12 fasteners of 5 different sizes needed to mount the water pump to the engine?

I have not pulled the pump off yet, as I probably will remove the crank pulley so that I can see the bottom of the pump to make sure that the two screws I removed are actually screws #2 and #9 in this image:


It's either that or get some lights in there and fiddle around with a mechanics mirror to see the bottom of the pump. I just don't have line of sight for those 2 screws.
Also, that image of the tightening sequence really needs to be rotated for the Fiero to something like this:


Because that's what the orientation of the pump on the engine really is.
Patrick OCT 16, 09:26 PM

quote
Originally posted by lateFormula:

13) Install the little stamped metal piece to hold the timing cover in place when the pump is removed. The one that came with my pump was out of spec so I needed to do a bit of grinding on it so that I could attach it.



Glad to hear you remembered that step before loosening the mounting bolts.

I went through all that fun with my Formula a few years ago, as reported Here.

Is this what your "stamped metal piece" looks like?
cvxjet OCT 16, 11:32 PM
Make sure that your new water pump has a METAL impeller; I had one with a plastic impeller and the car would overheat- the plastic impeller (Directly exposed to hot coolant) expands quicker than the metal shaft (which is NOT exposed to the hot coolant).....so it would stop spinning.

There are some successful plastic-impeller pumps that are designed to deal with this situation- but the after-market pumps we get for the Fiero are not an advanced design- just a replacement.

Also, be extremely careful with the smallest screws that hold the pump on- they are threaded into the aluminum timing chain cover and easily strip the threads
lateFormula OCT 17, 12:20 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Is this what your "stamped metal piece" looks like?



Yes, looked like that out of the box. Had to cut a bit off with right angle grinder:
Patrick OCT 17, 12:43 AM

quote
Originally posted by lateFormula:

Had to cut a bit off with right angle grinder:



As did I, although it looks like I may've modified mine a bit differently than yours.


quote
Originally posted by Patrick Here:

I should also mention that this mass produced stamped-out clamp required a few minutes of "modification" to properly fit where it had to go.




[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-17-2022).]

Cliff Pennock OCT 18, 11:19 AM
Lots of good information in this thread too.

I was able to remove the waterpump without using the special tool or a clamp. As long as you make sure no outwards force is acting on the timing cover, there should be no problem. In other words, don't pull on the waterpump (since that will apply an outwards force on the timing cover as well). Use something between the waterpump and the timing cover to pry the waterpump loose. That way, all forces acting on the timing cover will go inwards.

Also, I was able to replace the water pump without removing anything (so I skipped steps 1-7). I actually had plenty of space from the top.
Notorio OCT 18, 02:36 PM
Late, while you are down there with things more accessible, you might want to check the condition of the hoses going to/from the pump. Also, it's a good opportunity to make the timing groove on the harmonic balancer easier to see (wax pencil, etc.)
css9450 OCT 18, 08:20 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:







I did something a little different when I replaced my water pump earlier this year: I fixed it so the use of that special bracket won't be necessary ever again.

See that one bolt there just beneath the special bracket? It's the one where there is a gap between the water pump and the timing cover. Anyway, before installing my new pump, I replaced that bolt with a length of threaded rod, with a nut and washer, and then I installed my new water pump with another nut and washer. The threaded rod secures the timing cover to the block, thus eliminating the need to use the special bracket. Too bad they didn't do this originally from the factory because it will be a time-saver next time (if there is a next time).
Patrick OCT 18, 08:35 PM

quote
Originally posted by css9450:

See that one bolt there just beneath the special bracket? It's the one where there is a gap between the water pump and the timing cover. Anyway, before installing my new pump, I replaced that bolt with a length of threaded rod, with a nut and washer, and then I installed my new water pump with another nut and washer. The threaded rod secures the timing cover to the block, thus eliminating the need to use the special bracket. Too bad they didn't do this originally from the factory...



Great minds think alike. Back in 2014, I was wondering about doing the same thing...


quote
Originally posted by Patrick Here:

What is the purpose of the gap that I've indicated with a question mark? Shouldn't there at least be a stud with a nut on it used to hold down the timing cover below the water pump at that location?




[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-18-2022).]

css9450 OCT 18, 08:47 PM
Hey, good looking picture too! It shows the gap really well, the gap which I am certain is there for exactly that purpose. It's gotta be for a stud and nut!

It might even have been your picture which I subconciously remembered from years ago that led me to do it this way. Actually, I've been meaning to keep an eye open for any very old 2.8s I might see in the junkyard, to check them to see if they use a stud or not.... Chevy Citations, early S-10 pickups, etc.... They're mostly about all gone by now though.