Inside frame component? (Page 1/2)
Cunnive JAN 02, 08:04 PM

I wanted to check with y'all and see if this is cause for concern or if I can leave it as is?

As you can see from the photos, inside the frame you can see what looks like some rusted up platform with a short rod in the middle of it which goes through the bottom as if something is supposed to connect into it. The rear right one is very loose while the rear left one is a little loose but more stiff. Do I need to somehow cut these out and replace them? Do I need to do anything? Etc

RWDPLZ JAN 02, 08:25 PM
Those are the rear engine cradle mounting nuts. Rodney Dickman sells replacements that you weld in, or Floating ones.

Weld-in:

http://rodneydickman.com/pr....php?products_id=304

Floating:

http://rodneydickman.com/pr....php?products_id=276

I used the weld-in ones years ago, worked great

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/...160323-2-121544.html
fieroguru JAN 02, 08:26 PM
Those are called witch hat nuts.
The rear cradle bolts thread into them.
They should be able to move side to side, and front to back slightly to accommodate some variations in cradles, but should not spin.
The common failure is they start spinning in the spot welded sheet metal that holds them in place.
Cunnive JAN 02, 10:58 PM
This is excellent news, Thank you all for the help.

Are there instructions that come with these Rodney Dickman parts or is it pretty straightforward? This is a new endeavor for me so I just want to make sure I get it right.

[This message has been edited by Cunnive (edited 01-02-2023).]

theogre JAN 03, 09:22 AM
When you have easy access like that...

Spray w/ enough penetrating oil and let it work for days if can.
Keep applying oil every day @ minimum.

Even if you replace the nut, can save the bolts that's harder to replace and often cost a lot.

Note: Stuck Front cradle & other suspension bolts can be save following my Cave, Bushings

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Cunnive JAN 03, 11:43 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

When you have easy access like that...

Spray w/ enough penetrating oil and let it work for days if can.
Keep applying oil every day @ minimum.

Even if you replace the nut, can save the bolts that's harder to replace and often cost a lot.

Note: Stuck Front cradle & other suspension bolts can be save following my Cave, Bushings




Your link to the fierocave isn't working but I did have a question. How do I remove the old mounting nuts? I am assuming its welded in which case I will need to cut open the side panel into the area and cut it out?

Thanks!
Wichita JAN 04, 12:39 AM
They float, so that is normal.

It's only when you remove the bolt that you don't want it to break and spin on you.

I would follow Orges advice. When I removed my cradle, those nuts were not rusted like that. So I was able to remove the bolt without any issues.

Before I put the cradle back in, I blasted the inside of my frame with this:

theogre JAN 04, 08:37 AM

quote
Originally posted by Cunnive:
Your link to the fierocave isn't working but I did have a question. How do I remove the old mounting nuts? I am assuming its welded in which case I will need to cut open the side panel into the area and cut it out?

link works for me on several machines.

If nuts are rusty etc then metal holding can fail and let the nut spinning. So use some oil and allow time to work.
Above coating may help the frame but use anti-seize on the bold too.

Above "nut" has metal holding it that's welded but actuals nut are floating as others said.

Rear Nuts float to allow large tolerance from the cradle to fit right.
Front bolts go thru rubber bushing that allow centers to "self adjust" when all holes don't align 100% for same reason.

Note: If cradle is out/loose... Install front bolts first then rear.
Cunnive JAN 09, 12:07 PM

On this page http://rodneydickman.com/pr....php?products_id=276 on the Rodney Dickman website, he shows that you need to cut an opening in the frame in order to get access to the inside to install the floating nut. Is this also true for installing the weld-in option?
fieroguru JAN 09, 07:26 PM

quote
Originally posted by Cunnive:
On this page http://rodneydickman.com/pr....php?products_id=276 on the Rodney Dickman website, he shows that you need to cut an opening in the frame in order to get access to the inside to install the floating nut. Is this also true for installing the weld-in option?



If your nuts are not spinning in the sheet metal holder, then I wouldn't do anything. Just put some anti-seize on the bolts when you put them back together.

If you don't want to cut the frame rail (I don't like that method either), then you might want to check out my post in this thread that shows how you can remove them and then weld a nut to a bar and slide it back into place. You don't need to save the witch hat nuts if you want to buy some new M12x1.75 nuts.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/...110502-1-079522.html