 
     |
| Turning signal dont work when AC is on (Page 1/1) |
|
CiscoKID
|
JAN 11, 03:10 PM
|
|
|
I’m sure it’s most likely the alternator or battery but I’m not too sure how to check it. My AC doesn’t blow cold (that’s another issue in itself I know the Freon’s good I’m assuming it’s the AC clutch) but I still turn it own to get a bit of airflow. When I have it on the turning signal would flash slowly about twice and stop altogether. Any clue where to start to solve the issue? Thank you in advance
|
|
|
|
Mike in Sydney
|
JAN 11, 05:45 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by CiscoKID:
I’m sure it’s most likely the alternator or battery but I’m not too sure how to check it. My AC doesn’t blow cold (that’s another issue in itself I know the Freon’s good I’m assuming it’s the AC clutch) but I still turn it own to get a bit of airflow. When I have it on the turning signal would flash slowly about twice and stop altogether. Any clue where to start to solve the issue? Thank you in advance |
|
The turn signal is probably due to low voltage or a bad ground. To check your alternator, use a voltmeter on the battery terminals when the engine is running. You should see around 14.5 volts. To check your battery, use a voltmeter on the battery terminals when the engine is not running. You should see around 12.5 volts. Alternatively, take the car to Pepboys, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto, or any good mechanic and have them check the alternator and electrical system.
How do you know the "Freon's good"? Did you put a set of gauges on the system to check the pressures? You didn't say what model Fiero you have but the car is at least 35-years old and could be close to 40 years old. Rarely do AC systems hold a charge that long. Do you know if the compressor comes on when you push the A/C buttons? Did you check the fuse for the A/C compressor? Has the system been converted from R12 to R134a? If the system was converted, was it flushed before refilling? Your best bet is to check the fuses to see if that fixes the problem. If is doesn't, take it to an automotive A/C specialist and pay the bucks to have it inspected.
BTW, welcome to the forum but tell us what your car is and any modifications. That helps in providing you with useful information.[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 01-11-2023).]
|
|
|
|
CiscoKID
|
JAN 11, 05:49 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by Mike in Sydney:
To check your alternator, use a voltmeter on the battery terminals when the engine is running. You should see around 14.5 volts. Alternatively, take the car to Pepboys, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto, or any good mechanic and have them check the alternator and electrical system.
How do you know the "Freon's good"? Did you put a set of gauges on the system to check the pressures? You didn't say what model Fiero you have but the car is at least 35-years old and could be close to 40 years old. Rarely do AC systems hold a charge that long. Do you know if the compressor comes on when you push the A/C buttons? Did you check the fuse for the A/C compressor? Has the system been converted from R12 to R134a? If the system was converted, was it flushed before refilling? Your best bet is to check the fuses to see if that fixes the problem. If is doesn't, take it to an automotive A/C specialist and pay the bucks to have it inspected.
BTW, welcome to the forum but tell us what your car is and any modifications. That helps in providing you with useful information. |
|
Oh hey mark, sorry for not mentioning, found myself a ‘88 GT without any mods but I found a pep boys receipt where they converted it to a 134a system back in 2015 so I have no way of knowing if it was properly flushed. I attached the low loss gauge that came with the can of Freon and the levels looked good. Is there a separate fuse for the compressor itself? I took a look at the fuse for the AC and it was still good and even tried to test it without the fuse to make sure I looked at the right one and the blower wasn’t kicking on so I assumed it was the only fuse
|
|
|
|
Mike in Sydney
|
JAN 11, 06:03 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by CiscoKID:
Oh hey mark, sorry for not mentioning, found myself a ‘88 GT without any mods but I found a pep boys receipt where they converted it to a 134a system back in 2015 so I have no way of knowing if it was properly flushed. I attached the low loss gauge that came with the can of Freon and the levels looked good. Is there a separate fuse for the compressor itself? I took a look at the fuse for the AC and it was still good and even tried to test it without the fuse to make sure I looked at the right one and the blower wasn’t kicking on so I assumed it was the only fuse |
|
Check your wiring at the compressor and check to see if the A/C compressor comes on when you turn on the A/C. On my car, I can hear the A/C clutch engage if I have the key in the Run (not Accessory) position but haven't started the car. I get a solid sounding "clunk" or a loud "clack" when I push the A/C button. Not sure if you'll get the same.
Converted A/C systems sometimes suffer from "Black Death" that clog up the systems. Check the archives for information. (https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/142532.html)
(spelling error)[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 01-11-2023).]
|
|
|
|
theogre
|
JAN 11, 10:16 PM
|
|
remove or put spaces in brackets for link above.
Check volt in engine bay as said above.
engine off w/ charge battery = 12.6 to 13v
engine running then output from alt = 14-15v
Then check volts in other places between whatever wire and frame.
But note often is a bit less volts... engine running is 14 then other things can be ~ 13.5 because of normal volt dropping.
If is 13v or less then worry some to a lot.
Because if engine bay has good volts and other thing(s) not then have 1 or more wiring problems in the Cave, Wire Service
See my Cave, Electric Motors too.------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
|
|
|
|