Best "float charger" or trickle charger? (Page 1/2)
82-T/A [At Work] JAN 30, 01:29 PM
Hey guys, semi-Fiero related. Would anyone be able to recommend the best trickle charger for a car that basically sits and almost never gets driven?


I've had several of them over the years, and they all fail pretty quickly.

The problem I seem to have is that they charge forever, and never shut off, and then eventually burn out. For example, I have a 2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX... 45-50k miles. It basically sits in the garage. Battery is totally dead, but it's less than 6 months old. The ECM itself creates a drain on the battery... as is the case with all modern cars. I have a battery charger that I bought from AutoZone, that even when the battery is fully charged, it seems to desire to charge it up to and beyond 14 volts... which is like... WTF?

I feel like this is way more complicated than it needs to be. What can I buy where I (after I revive this battery), I can just leave a trickle charger hooked up to keep the battery charged... and not worry about it overcharging (causing a fire) or burning out?


Thanks!
theogre JAN 30, 04:01 PM
Trickle or Float chargers 24/7 for months to years kills them too.
Is also why many APC and other UPS for SOHO market and even Enterprise for Big Businesses using Gel Lead Acid batteries often die after 2-3 years max because they trickle charge to death.

Battery tender claims will "shut off" when reach full charge then monitor and change when needed.
Even then I don't leave it plugged in forever because I haven't had time to see if does shut off.

Note that Motorcycle and other w/ small batteries even die w/ many "trickle types" because most are made for "car batteries" and bigger and will over charge and "boil" out the water. So B-Tender and others make units for them w/ less amps.

Full charge battery ~ = 12.6 to 13.1
See my Cave, Battery

If can't/won't drive a vehicle every few days to a week max.... is better for many to disconnect the battery.
But many newer "cars" get pissed even then and even sets DTC or have other problems w/o power all of time.

Also if the battery dies on newer "cars," you may need to "reset" the PCM using "expert level" scan tool because many new "cars" track battery charge and more. IOW The PCM may still think has an Old/Dead battery and limit charging when you replace w/ a new battery. And most cheap scanners can't reset this function and new battery has problems too.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

82-T/A [At Work] JAN 30, 04:12 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Trickle or Float chargers 24/7 for months to years kills them too.
Is also why many APC and other UPS for SOHO market and even Enterprise for Big Businesses using Gel Lead Acid batteries often die after 2-3 years max because they trickle charge to death.

Battery tender claims will "shut off" when reach full charge then monitor and change when needed.
Even then I don't leave it plugged in forever because I haven't had time to see if does shut off.

Note that Motorcycle and other w/ small batteries even die w/ many "trickle types" because most are made for "car batteries" and bigger and will over charge and "boil" out the water. So B-Tender and others make units for them w/ less amps.

Full charge battery ~ = 12.6 to 13.1
See my Cave, Battery

If can't/won't drive a vehicle every few days to a week max.... is better for many to disconnect the battery.
But many newer "cars" get pissed even then and even sets DTC or have other problems w/o power all of time.

Also if the battery dies on newer "cars," you may need to "reset" the PCM using "expert level" scan tool because many new "cars" track battery charge and more. IOW The PCM may still think has an Old/Dead battery and limit charging when you replace w/ a new battery. And most cheap scanners can't reset this function and new battery has problems too.





Thanks Ogre... ok, I'll get a Battery Tender. I had one of those (green one) many years ago, and it worked well keeping my Fiero charged, but at some point it shorted out. I've had dozens of them since then, and they either just didn't work at all right from the get go, or burned out within a week or so.

The Crown Vic is old enough that it doesn't get fussy when disconnected, it just has to relearn some of the fine-tuned fuel conditions based on environment variables... and the radio pre-sets, haha.

Thanks!
Patrick JAN 30, 04:43 PM

I bought this cheap little thing a couple of years ago, and I've been happy with it. Does what it's supposed to do.
Mike in Sydney JAN 30, 05:03 PM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:

Hey guys, semi-Fiero related. Would anyone be able to recommend the best trickle charger for a car that basically sits and almost never gets driven?


I've had several of them over the years, and they all fail pretty quickly.

The problem I seem to have is that they charge forever, and never shut off, and then eventually burn out. For example, I have a 2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX... 45-50k miles. It basically sits in the garage. Battery is totally dead, but it's less than 6 months old. The ECM itself creates a drain on the battery... as is the case with all modern cars. I have a battery charger that I bought from AutoZone, that even when the battery is fully charged, it seems to desire to charge it up to and beyond 14 volts... which is like... WTF?

I feel like this is way more complicated than it needs to be. What can I buy where I (after I revive this battery), I can just leave a trickle charger hooked up to keep the battery charged... and not worry about it overcharging (causing a fire) or burning out?


Thanks!




I had good luck with the battery chargers that I've purchased from Aldi. (YMMV) Pretty solid performance and 3 modes and charging capability from 0.8 amps to 5.0 amps depending on the mode. It's not great for quick charging of a dead battery but will bring one back if it's not totally kaput overnight.

I keep the K12RS on one as well as one of my GT's that t gets started / driven infrequently while it's disassembled for restoration. The battery in the K12RS is a lithium battery that's now 4 years old. Could go any minute but it seems fine at present. The battery in the GT is an el-cheepo Walmart special that I put in the car before shipping to Australia in 2018. It, too, could go any minute but it seems fine at present.
theogre JAN 30, 06:04 PM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
Thanks Ogre... ok, I'll get a Battery Tender. I had one of those (green one) many years ago, and it worked well keeping my Fiero charged, but at some point it shorted out. I've had dozens of them since then, and they either just didn't work at all right from the get go, or burned out within a week or so.

Small "wall wart" chargers don't like a dead battery. If low or dead then charge w/ a "real" 6-10a charger first to be > 12.4v or more.

If Battery Tender never has Green LED... Battery is dying or something sucking power and BT stays in charge mode. That could "burn up" the charger.

Other trickle/float charger can have same problem but most don't tell you and can't go by feel because weather/building temp too cold or by the time the case is hot, the guts are way hotter and dying/dead.

If you buy a disconnect switch etc... Do Not get them from Eflay Amacon etc because so many are poorly made or counterfeit etc. Buy from Jeggs or other Part stores.
Don't buy important parts from 3rd parties on some parts stores too.

Example: you often see this type: (also made side connect cables)

but many are made of zinc or worse and fail fast.
Patrick JAN 30, 06:29 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

If you buy a disconnect switch etc... Do Not get them from Eflay Amacon etc because so many are poorly made or counterfeit etc. Buy from Jeggs or other Part stores. Don't buy important parts from 3rd parties on some parts stores too... many are made of zinc or worse and fail fast.



What is there to "fail"? Do you mean they break or what? I use a couple that I bought ages ago off off eBay. They seem fine.
theogre JAN 30, 08:28 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
What is there to "fail"? Do you mean they break or what? I use a couple that I bought ages ago off off eBay. They seem fine.

Zinc and other can see same "rust" because is Zinc to Lead and other metals. Coating/plating on them are often applied poorly or worse.
Above type can break where two parts are crimped because of weak metal. The screw, threaded hole or both can strip if used often or rust frozen.

That's if battery connections etc are good and stay tight. Zinc Melts Very Easily when have problems more so w/ the stater... Even OE starter w/ electrical, mechanical or both can draw 130A or more. Some have upgraded 1.7kw starter that draw more amps to start w/ a full charge battery. (1700w / 12.6V = 135A) Starters can draw even more Amps for a low battery or resistive wiring problems covered in my Cave, Electric Motors

You can find Brass/bronze units that are way better. More so in Fiero where "Water" and road crap have easy access to the OE battery and parts. Example: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10320/10002/-1 or https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10318/10002/-1
Both rated @ 500 Amps Surge & 125 Amps Continuous @ 12 Volts
OldGuyinaGT JAN 31, 12:32 AM
I have some experience with the Battery Tender Junior (800mA). We use one at work, not for a car, but for a small electric walk-behind forklift. It has a Group 35 automotive battery. It's built-in charger died decades ago, and we were seeing really short battery life when periodically charging it with an unregulated linear power supply.

We use this forklift only very occasionally, and after way too many battery replacements I finally bought the Battery Tender. I check it occasionally and it indicates that it shuts off now and again. It has been keeping the forklift operational on infrequent demand with the same battery now for the last couple of years, so I have at least some confidence in it.
css9450 JAN 31, 01:06 PM
I use this charger:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/p...02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep my Fiero and WRX in the garage all winter and I just swap the charger between them every so often. A week on one car, than a week on the other, then I leave it off for a couple weeks.

It's a nice unit and it comes with a couple different kinds of terminal ends.