How to remove oil stop leak from used heads before Magnafluxing? (Page 1/1)
BowtieBob FEB 11, 11:35 AM
Hi, I'm rebuilding a 2.8 and have access to a pair of heads that once had stop leak in the engine. I want to inspect for cracks with Magnaflux Spotcheck penetrant so I need to make them squeeky clean. I have the SKC-S pre-cleaner, but would like to pre-pre-clean before I use that, preferrably before I hand them to a shop for the valve job. Any advise on removing stop leak residue?
TIA!

[This message has been edited by BowtieBob (edited 02-12-2023).]

BowtieBob FEB 13, 12:05 AM
I have to believe stop leak ends up in the blow-by.
BowtieBob FEB 13, 12:07 AM
I have to believe some stop leak ends up in the blow-by. There is a fair amount of carbon in the chambers.
Rust in the jackets as well.

[This message has been edited by BowtieBob (edited 02-13-2023).]

steve308 FEB 13, 08:18 AM
Dry-ice blasting might be an option.
BowtieBob FEB 18, 12:26 AM
Thanks for the CO2 idea. I decided to give the heads to a shop with a parts washer and the magnet style magnaflux. The penatrant is kinda pricey to waste.
My block decks came out clean and no cracks, but there was a curious slight scuff mark on #5 cylinder. I looked at all the piston skirts from the back and they are all fine. This scuff is 90 degrees rotated from the skirts anyway. Along the wrist pin axis. I didn't want to pull the pistons if I didn't have to because I'm afraid to damage the rings. I would think a broken ring would make a worse mark than this. I can barely, barely feel it with my fingernail. Could a chunk of carbon breaking free and momentarily getting caught in the rings do this?

[This message has been edited by BowtieBob (edited 02-18-2023).]

sanderson231 FEB 18, 09:35 AM
Hot tank (caustic solution) cast iron heads just like cast iron blocks.

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formerly known as sanderson
1984 Quad 4
1886 SE 2.8L
1988 4.9L Cadillac
1988 3800 Supercharged

PhatMax FEB 18, 01:07 PM
If it was a ring id think the top of the piston would be carbon’d up as well as oily….shinny..
BowtieBob FEB 26, 03:01 PM
Well I took Sanderson231's advise and had the block hot tanked. The pistons were pulled and new rings installed. The scuff was from a barely perceptable rub on the piston. It did overheat, but not for long or by a lot when I had it. Maybe earlier in it's life. The cylinders all were de-glazed and measured for round and taper and all looks good. The scuff may have been mainly in the glazed surface, it didn't need an overbore. This is actually one part of a 4T60 swap I am doing. I wanted to refresh the engine while it was out because I knew it had a coolant leak into the oil. I will start another post on the 4T60 with pictures. Thanks all for responding!

[This message has been edited by BowtieBob (edited 02-26-2023).]