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Universal Fuel Level Sensor Guide (Page 1/1) |
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MichiganReefer
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APR 24, 12:13 PM
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zkhennings
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APR 24, 02:56 PM
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Nice writeup, only input I have is to make sure that the ring terminals do not need the plastic around them because they will probably be eaten over time from the gas unless they are fuel safe.
Thanks for putting this together.
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MichiganReefer
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APR 25, 02:02 PM
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Very true about the plastic! And hope some others find it useful as well.
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Spoon
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APR 25, 08:13 PM
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All metal ring terminals soldered to the wire would be better than the crimp & plastic, Also better clamps are available for this project. (Dorman 800-308). The type you have will dig into the rubber fuel line eventually. And just in case, only submersible type fuel hose is used inside the gas tank. It's sold by the foot and it's expensive. Gates 27093 < check size. I can't tell what type you used. Good luck on your project.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
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MichiganReefer
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APR 26, 11:10 AM
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Crimping works just fine, you just need to make sure it's done properly. The stock wires are even crimped.
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theogre
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APR 26, 12:46 PM
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Yes, crimping works But Need good ends and tool. Go Cheap on either often causes problems. Like? Cheap crimps have weak metal and fail over time in this case can cause same problem cover in http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/146784.html Most Ends sold by Amazon and a lot more are very poorly made. Cheap tool can't get good compression on any end, more so w/ Good ends like made by 3M and ends barely hold the wire.
Factory Crimps are installed by Air or Hydro crimpers and pressure they generate often result in near cold weld the parts and near 0 voids letting air etc in the connection. You can't generate the same pressure with most hand tools and why GM even recommends soldering some joints.
Example: One specific is Pigtail w/ New Plug to use new style ECT for ECM. Because Errors w/ iffy wiring will cause ECM reading coolant temp wrong and engine can run rich and other problems.
Other problem is any installing this or other replacement Fuel Senders often set so Empty on Gauge = Total Empty tank. That's bad enough on level ground but will have problems way sooner on any incline because Electric F-pump Hates running dry for any amount of time. Even w/ Factory Setup, F-tank design make easier to have same problem when near empty but not as bad for most people unless live in "Hill Country" areas.
Even after fixing gauge clips and now get better readings, I still won't let tank to run lower then 1/8-1/4 because tank tipped driving up/down a small hill can make gauge and pump to see "empty" really fast.
Note that many tanks can't suck dry and not just a "Fiero" problem. Tank Baffles and more can block last 1/2 to 1 gallon or more depending on road your drive on right now. Most time my 87 say empty and fill w/o pushing only get 9-9.5 max. I only push empty many years ago till engine dies to reach 10 and tiny bit more. (Pushing to fill more can cause other problems now or soon as gas heats up and expanse.)
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 04-26-2023).]
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