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| What causes window jerk and pop near full up? (YouTube Video with sound) (Page 1/1) |
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John W. Tilford
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MAY 10, 10:14 PM
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I replaced the inner and outer dew wipes on the passenger window of my 88GT last fall. I previously finished the same replacements on the driver side with no issues.
Passenger side glass motion was a bit jerky near full up before I put the inner panel and outer skin back on to get through the cold weather. With the door fully assembled the motion was more jerky and had an actual "pop" noise about two inches away from full up, like it was hanging up and breaking free. So I went through the winter not putting the passenger window any further down than the two inches = no jerk and no pop.
This afternoon I took the inner panel and outer skin off again to see if I could tell what was going on. I still can't. The inner dew wipe is off so I could detach the rear view mirror in order to remove the outer skin. I think that exaggerates the sudden inner tilt as the glass nears the top. I did replace the two felt pads in this door but the old ones didn't seem too badly worn. As near as I could tell I put the new ones in exactly the same place as the old.
Here's a video of the glass motion near full up: https://youtu.be/IBa-QSOHLgs
Any thoughts? Should I take this opportunity with the inner panel off to experiment with adjusting the glass motion, such as reduce the inward tilt? Maybe put the inner dew wipe and outer skin/dew wipe back on first so the dew wipe pressures are "normal" during the adjustments?
I'm having trouble adding some still images showing 1) everything in place as it seemingly should be at both ends of the bottom of the glass, 2) one extra white plastic thing left over from last fall which I have no idea where it might have come from, 3) a view inside the door showing one clean spot on the rear up stop block (front block looks the same). I'll try again after I post this.
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John W. Tilford
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John W. Tilford
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MAY 10, 10:18 PM
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shemdogg
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MAY 10, 11:13 PM
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That plastic donut looks like one of the sliders for the power window track. The lube wears away and they stop rotating and grind a flat spot and slide on that till they eventually break off. Thats causing the jerky motion
shem
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John W. Tilford
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MAY 11, 06:23 AM
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Shem, thanks!
My Chilton manual does not show any detail on the power window "regulator" and only describes how to replace the entire mechanism. Do you have, or know of, any diagram or pictures showing where a replacement plastic slider would go? Speaking of replacement, how/where to obtain?
John T
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John W. Tilford[This message has been edited by John W. Tilford (edited 05-11-2023).]
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shemdogg
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MAY 11, 09:15 AM
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Raydar
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MAY 11, 12:19 PM
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Does it still "pop" with the inner door panel removed?
I have the same pop with mine, that went away when I took the panel off. 
I am convinced that my "pop" is caused by one of the christmas trees on the back of the inner door panel being hit by something in the mechanism.
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John W. Tilford
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MAY 11, 05:05 PM
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Raydar: exactly right, but for a "pop" just a few inches from bottom on the way up. The "Christmas tree" off-white plastic push-in fastener on the inside door panel bottom rear must be cut off to about half length. For a while I had two "pops", the lower one due to the push-in fasteners for the inner panel being all the same full length. Some other group members educated me on that last fall.
Shemdogg, back to the upper "pop":
It's fixed! Background - the passenger door is not original to my 88GT. For example, someone cut little rectangle access holes in the top of the door frame so the felt pads could be changed without taking out the glass. Whomever they were, they did a good job. Complete with hard cover for each hole and two small Phillips head screws to attach each cover. I used the holes to install new felt pads last fall.
I noticed about an hour ago the adjustment for the vertical channel [see below excerpt from a window adjustment post]
"Adjusts the in and out of the window against the frame and is adjusted in conjunction with the BLUE circles. If you get the window to tight against the seal then it will be hard to roll the window up. to loose and you will get leaks and wind noise.
I think there is another in /out in the "nose channel" in the front but I'm not sure because I have never had to adjust it."
Back to me, John T: the toward the inside and away from the inside adjustment for the channel was on full away from. I loosened the two 10mm hex head screws and brought the top of the channel about one eighth of an inch back toward the inside. While the screws were sill a little loose tried raising the window. Smooth and no pop. Took it back down half way. Tried up again and it popped. Took a look at the adjustment. The loose screws had allowed the adjustment to snap back to full away from. I put it back to 1/8 inch in from full away from and tightened the screws. Up and down several times with no pops. Closed and opened the door. Glass fits rubber molding around door. Closed door and lowered and raised window. No problem.
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John W. Tilford[This message has been edited by John W. Tilford (edited 05-11-2023).]
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