Blinker causes gauges to tick (Page 1/1)
jus2custom JUL 01, 12:52 AM
Hi,

I haven't played with my fiero for a bit and I have everything cleaned up and ready to go. But I have this last thing, I have my tach nd oil pressure gauge ticking with the blinker. I am guessing a bad ground somewhere. Can someone tell me where all these are so I can start hunting it down please.

Thank you for your time.

I did search the forum before this post as I thought I seen this question before but I wasn't able to locate the thread.
IMSA GT JUL 01, 01:15 AM
Generally it's normal if it's a little movement. At one point someone said that it moves about 1.5 needle widths. If it really jumps then you have a problem.
jelly2m8 JUL 01, 05:33 AM
What's your charge voltage at idle / decel? Also what is your engine off battery voltage? Seen a few twitching gauges because of a weak battery.
jus2custom JUL 01, 09:53 AM
I jumps about 500rpm

New battery.

3800SC Series II swap.

I have had fieros with the needle jump, this one seems a little worse and the blinker seems like it is struggling / slow.

I was thinking it was a found, someone said their is a ground behind the cluster, and online I saw their is a ground next to each headlight bucket or front makers..

I was hoping someone may have had a similar issue and goes oh yeah... It's always this wire

Thanks for any help, this is that last thing to get everything perfect .
steve308 JUL 01, 02:23 PM
Grounds are always the first thing to check. If you are using LED's you need to change the relay (the one mounted under the steering column to a LED relay that has a ground wire. Even if you don't have LED bulbs the grounded relay will improve the functionality of the blinkers. It's also a good idea to change the relay to a grounded unit on the blue dinigy chime. Also many have found that using LEDs in the front turn signals cause the green arrow to glow in the guage cluster. Installing resistors solves the issue. LED Flasher relays and resistors can be found on Amazon.

[This message has been edited by steve308 (edited 07-01-2023).]

theogre JUL 01, 08:08 PM

quote
Originally posted by IMSA GT:
Generally it's normal if it's a little movement. At one point someone said that it moves about 1.5 needle widths. If it really jumps then you have a problem.

Is Not "normal" even then. Turn Lights only draws ~ 6.5 amps.

Iffy Grounds anywhere can cause this.
Iffy + battery cables, alt output, and more won't help this.

"easiest" to start in engine bay and fix/clean all grounds and + "box" under C500 and coat ends etc w/ silicone or permatex green brake grease to stop "water" problems.

see https://web.archive.org/web...cast.net/~fierocave/ wire service

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

jus2custom JUL 14, 01:30 PM
Issue solved:

The plug in the back of cluster, the circuits were de-laminationg and connecting together. Just thought I post the cause/solution.

Thanks for all the help, all grounds are good now too!
theogre JUL 14, 02:54 PM
No shock to many...
Big Plug "pins" often do that. You pull the plug and "glue" is dead then copper on the board bends or breaks when you plug in again.
But anywhere on the "board" can delam and copper gets loose and short out whatever. That short can blow fuses or fry things like OP and Fuel Senders dumping "12v" on 0-90Ω resistor.

If that happens, hope the fuel tank is full or way too rich to cause a fire from the spark of dying sender. If fuel system works right either should be case. But tank, fill line, vents or EVAP often leak for bad parts causing more dangerous problem.

My spare dash has delam several traces at "bottom" so only use it to show how to do other things like https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/146784.html

Note: Back cover/trim should have had "foam" inside over vent areas... Most of this is Gone now.
Think was to stop dash light getting out at night + block UV getting in and attack the "board."
I would find something to replace that foam to protect the board.