L67 cranking (Page 1/3)
jmac87tt JUL 15, 08:29 PM
New to the l67 platform but not to boosted applications. I have a l67 with a 5 speed manual that I put into my fiero. The build up was over the winter and such just getting around to starting it.
When I go to start the car it just clicks and will not turn over. Bench tested the starter and it's good at least will kick out bendix and spin I do not know it's cranking power starter is old, battery is brand new solenoid working.
The more concerning thing is when I try to turn the engine over by hand it won't turn freely. Even without the belts. Is this common? Should the plugs be removed ? Never had this issue before even with v8s wondering if there is some interference and the starter can't crank the engine but unsure since it all turned freely before the install of the trans, belts and plugs. Any help greatly appreciated !!
jelly2m8 JUL 15, 10:27 PM

quote
Originally posted by jmac87tt:

since it all turned freely before the install of the trans, !!



What flywheel did you use and if it is a FWD 3800 application flywheel what thickness did you have it machined to?

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 07-15-2023).]

jmac87tt JUL 16, 08:48 AM
00 3.8l Camaro manual flywheel machine to .818
shemdogg JUL 16, 10:05 AM
The l67s ive done had killer compression and were hard to turn w the plugs out by hand. Pull your plugs and try to turn the motor by hand, if its binding up now but didnt before you attached the trans, something in the trans is probably hitting. Unless its in gear and the starter and or batterys weak, you should see the car lurch a bit if it was. Fingers crossed for ya!

shem
theogre JUL 16, 10:16 AM
Depending on exactly how you "turn by hand" most engine will turn but how hard depend on leverage of "wrench."

Even Dukes are harder w/ "standard" size 1/2" drive ratchet handles. But double or more that and turn very easy by finger effort.

"Bench" test works but in the car won't even try to pull the solenoid is wiring or battery "dead."
Full charge battery is 12.6-13v. "Dead" is just 12v or less.

GM and many other Starter Solenoid pulls ~ 30a because also pulls in the bendix and Iffy wiring, iffy/bad I-switch, and more can it hard to get that many amps. ("Ford type" remote solenoids uses less power but way more then most think vs other large relays in a car.)

That ignoring GM Steering columns, more so for Tilt or Tilt Telescope units, that often have problems just pushing/pulling the I-switch to start, aux or both positions.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

jmac87tt JUL 16, 02:09 PM
All plugs removed and a 4' piece of rigid conduit on the edge of the rachet it still won't move. Battery is new. Starter appears to be working solenoid tests out.
I think there is an interface issue with the flywheel or trans. Only thing I can't understand is how. I even remember having to secure the flywheel putting the pressure plate bolts on so the engine didn't just turn over.
Only other thing I can think of is the trans like if it was stuck in gear but the shifter goes in and out of each gear smoothly. Unless someone has some kinda test for something I'm missing looks like I'm looking at redropping the cradle 🤷🤷
Spoon JUL 16, 07:40 PM
You may have a binding starter. Did you try turning it over by hand with the starter removed? If it turns freely with the starter removed, then you found the problem. Also the 3800sc starter has a different part # than the non sc version. Perhaps a bit more amps. Parts store normally won't list both or have no clue.
Decades ago GM starters used shimes to allow more clearance between starter gear & flywheel to prevent binding.

Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

jelly2m8 JUL 16, 08:24 PM
Different part numbers for the NA and SC motors but the NA one works fine, I run a NA starter on mine from my previous swap.
jmac87tt JUL 16, 08:54 PM
Good thoughts guys but even with the starter out the motor doesn't turn. I feel like the pressure plate is hitting the bellhousing but it's really just a guess. I can't get the little inspection cover at the bottom of the bell off. I'll try and get a closer look tomorrow but it seems either way the trans at least has to come off which means dropping the cradle. I guess thinking positive I'll consider this first go around mock up 🤷😂
I do have another bellhousing if that is the case. Current is an izuzu 5speed. The spare is a Muncie 4 speed
jelly2m8 JUL 16, 09:58 PM

quote
Originally posted by jmac87tt:

Current is an izuzu 5speed. The spare is a Muncie 4 speed




If you are using the clutch for the 4spd Muncie then that is your problem, the 4 spd clutch assembly has a taller assembled height than the 5 spd Isuzu clutch and 4spd pressure plate does make contact inside the 5 spd Isuzu bell housing. You need to use a clutch for the transmission in use.