Seat Belt Anchor Bolt Specs? (Page 1/2)
Strix1988 JUL 26, 11:13 PM
My 88 GT has a rusted out floor pan plug and all the driver side seat hardware rusted out. I went to put my seat belt on and the buckle came clean out; bracket rotted out. I tried to remove the seat and every bolt was seized and rounded. I unfortunately had to cut the studs, there was no other way.
So I got the seat out to install my new seat belt buckle that has no rust on it. But the bolt that was holding the old one in is in the same condition as the rest of the hardware. The hex key is of course rounded out as well and I couldn't get a tool to get into it. Tomorrow I'm thinking about getting my Dremel and making a flathead slit to get it out. Worse case scenario I weld something to it for leverage. Anyone have tips on getting it out?
Second question, I'll obviously need a new bolt, does anyone have specs of the bolt? I wouldn't doubt if I needed it to be custom made. If anyone has an extra laying around send me a message and I'll take it off your hands.
Any help is appreciated!
theogre JUL 27, 07:27 AM
Hex?
Most for many brands not just GM seat belt bolts are T50 heads and Class 10.9 or higher hardness.
Heads may have rust that hind is a Torx head.

Many are torqued very tight and have dry formula of "loctite" applied too. So even w/o rust, need something heavier then "allen" keys to remove.

Because bolt is hard, expect to eat several to many "dremel" abrasive wheels but even then Slotted head likely won't work because of torque needed.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Dennis LaGrua JUL 29, 09:11 PM
Those seat belt bolts should be readily available from GM and other vehicles at the junkyards. They are made from an extremely hard steel. If you wish to remove broken studs you will need to drill them out using a carbide drill bit

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Strix1988 JUL 30, 12:42 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Hex?
Most for many brands not just GM seat belt bolts are T50 heads and Class 10.9 or higher hardness.
Heads may have rust that hind is a Torx head.

Many are torqued very tight and have dry formula of "loctite" applied too. So even w/o rust, need something heavier then "allen" keys to remove.

Because bolt is hard, expect to eat several to many "dremel" abrasive wheels but even then Slotted head likely won't work because of torque needed.





Got it. So I'll try and look for a good T50 torx bit. I saw a video on YouTube of an older guy talking about a Snap On bit he bought for $37. Decent bit of money, but he said it's been his best friend while taking his 3rd gen Camaros interior apart. Thanks for the reply Ogre
Strix1988 JUL 30, 12:46 PM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

Those seat belt bolts should be readily available from GM and other vehicles at the junkyards. They are made from an extremely hard steel. If you wish to remove broken studs you will need to drill them out using a carbide drill bit




I was hoping they would be pretty standard.
https://www.hawksmotorsport...-bolts-pair-gm-used/
Would these be the same bolts? I'll try and find new, but I see some have threads on the bottom half and others are fully threaded.
Thanks for the reply Dennis
lateFormula JUL 30, 02:29 PM
An expensive Snap On Torx driver is worth every penny for this job. I broke off several Lisle Torx bits and finally bought a high strength Snap On Driver and it has never failed me.

Also to get the old ones out, you do not use the Dremel to cut a slot in the middle of it, thinking you're gonna use a flathead screwdriver to get the bolt out. You use the Dremel to cut 2 flat edges on the outer surf of the bolt head like this:


Then you use a Crescent type wrench to clamp down on the two flat edges and then remove the bolt.

[This message has been edited by lateFormula (edited 07-30-2023).]

theogre JUL 30, 05:52 PM

quote
Originally posted by Strix1988:
I was hoping they would be pretty standard.
https://www.hawksmotorsport...-bolts-pair-gm-used/
Would these be the same bolts? I'll try and find new, but I see some have threads on the bottom half and others are fully threaded.
Thanks for the reply Dennis

GM etc used different bolt formats in different places.
Retractor side have no moving on the bolt.
Latch side bolt and maybe others To Move on the bolt and why are "sleeve bolt" to tighten w/ free space for thing(s) to move on the "sleeve" section.

I'm not sure if retactor have T50 bolt head. Haven't seen them for years. Latch and some other "anchors" are T50.

Again, even w/o Rust problems those are often Very torqued and have "locktite" too and very hard to remove.
Yes, Lisle and others "one piece" Torx "socket" have broken removing these bolts.
Snap-on and related 2 part Torx, Allen, etc are often better because the "bit" itself is harden way better. I bought T50 Craftman decades ago to remove Seatbelts on old Ford cars. Also works for many Brake Slider Heads.
Do Not use Impact wrenches. Most "bits" are not rated for that.
theogre JUL 30, 05:57 PM

quote
Originally posted by lateFormula:
Also to get the old ones out, you do not use the Dremel to cut a slot in the middle of it, thinking you're gonna use a flathead screwdriver to get the bolt out. You use the Dremel to cut 2 flat edges on the outer surf of the bolt head like this:


Then you use a Crescent type wrench to clamp down on the two flat edges and then remove the bolt.

Stanly makes/made a "Crescent type" crossbred w/ "vise grips" that may work better. Most others will slip and likely hurt you.
Strix1988 AUG 02, 12:05 AM
I managed to get it off. I tried to grind two sides down like shown in the picture but couldn't get a good grip. So I said screw it and welded a bolt to it. Came right out no problem. Gonna find me a new one and get going on the next step: new steam studs and floor pan drains. Wish me luck.
theogre AUG 02, 04:22 PM
Welding likely cooked the "loctite" that help.