Clutch Problems? 1 and R fighting you? (Page 1/1) musicmansam JUL 26, 11:37 PM Is it very difficult to get into 1 and R? Do you break a sweat trying to get your shift lever to stay in 1 from a stop? How about Reverse grinding EVERY second when trying to get into it? OR, pushing your clutch to the floor, and you STILL creep forward?!? Well do I have the solution for you!! SLAVE CYLINDERS!! Oh, and a proper bleeding. I know this has been covered, but I want to put it out there again for anyone who may be new and not know what exactly to do. Those more knowledgeable than me, please fill in any details I might have forgotten since I did this 3 weeks ago... Well, let me tell you. I have a 5spd Getrag, and let me tell you what an incredible different a slave cylinder replacement will make!! First off, get yourself a new slave cylinder. Then, if you are unfortunate enough to not be bale to get one of Rodney's cast aluminum ones, order yourself his dual seal piston. While you're at it, go ahead and order his slave cylinder bleeder tool as well - makes life a lot easier. I have to first give a big thanks to V8 Archie and Rodney Dickman for having such incredible instructions and parts to make this job doable for even a newbie like myself, and for thus allowing me to drive my car to the 40th! First, empty out your master cylinder (I used a fluid extractor) and wipe that thing clean. There will likely be black gooey buildup in there - get as much out with a lint free rag as you can. My next step was to hook a hand vac up to the line at the rear of the vehicle, and slowly pull all the old fluid out (mine started as chocolate milk, ended as, well, brake fluid color). I dont know if it is okay to empty it before refilling, but I just flushed a full 12oz bottle through it and did not let anything run dry. Once the fluid is clean coming through, mount and hook up that new slave and attach the RD bleeder tool. Then, go to V8 archie's website and follow his clutch and slave bleeding instructions. Make sure to push the pedal slowly while bleeding so as not to break big bubbles up into little bubbles and make your problem worse. Keep that master cylinder topped off otherwise you will need to start the bleeding all over again. I jacked the drivers side up a bit to ensure the bleeder screw is higher than the rest of the slave cylinder. As you bleed the slave, tap on it a few times here and there to loosen any bubbles and make them go up to the bleeder hole. Once you are satisfied with the amount of bubbles coming through the bleeder tool tube (which should hopefully be none), go ahead and disconnect the bleeder tool and put the original screw back in there. Congrats - you should now have a fully functional clutch! . As a fun side note, when I did mine recently, I was hoping I could maybe clean mine out and salvage the old one for future use...I quickly thought otherwise... Old Slave and Rod Old and New Side-by-side Patrick JUL 27, 12:22 AM quote Originally posted by musicmansam: ...let me tell you what an incredible different a slave cylinder replacement will make!! First off, get yourself a new slave cylinder. Then, if you are unfortunate enough to not be bale to get one of Rodney's cast aluminum ones, order yourself his dual seal piston. When I got my first Fiero back in the mid-90s, life was very different... as there was no such thing as dual seal slaves. Keeping air out of the clutch hydraulics was near impossible. All you newbs have it pretty easy now.