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Replacing front control arm bushings (Page 1/1) |
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Spoon
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JUL 30, 11:16 AM
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I'm replacing the front lower control arm bushings and had to remove the coil spring. I had to pry the bottom of the coil spring off the perch and used a tether just in case it decided to go ballistic. The bushings are replaced and I'm having trouble getting the coil spring back on the lower perch. The angle is nearly at 45 degrees. The Mcpherson spring compressor limits the draw due to chassis interference. Other type compressors would have trouble getting them out of the coils once compressed. What's everyone else using? If I were cutting coils out, which is what most articles are about, I'd have no trouble. What's the secret? See pics.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
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cvxjet
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JUL 30, 01:20 PM
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I have used an external spring compressor...but even it can be difficult to fit on the front suspension....
Another way to do it (Carefully) is to compress the spring (Only as much as needed) and then tie lines around it to hold it until you get it positioned...Obviously, you need to make sure the lines are positioned both to HOLD (Without side-slipping) and so you can remove them after you release them (Not trapped under the spring against the perch)[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 07-30-2023).]
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lateFormula
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JUL 30, 02:14 PM
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Buy an external spring compressor like what is shown above. The two Acme threaded bolts, cut off about 1/3 the length of them, leaving 2/3 of the bolt to do the job. That will make it much easier to use in those cramped quarters.
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IMSA GT
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JUL 30, 02:49 PM
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quote | Originally posted by lateFormula:
Buy an external spring compressor like what is shown above. The two Acme threaded bolts, cut off about 1/3 the length of them, leaving 2/3 of the bolt to do the job. That will make it much easier to use in those cramped quarters. |
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That's exactly what I had to do to my set. Cut them down to size. Then they worked perfectly.
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Vintage-Nut
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JUL 30, 05:48 PM
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PhatMax
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JUL 30, 07:56 PM
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I had the same problem using an external spring compressor ……if my memory serves correct I had to BFH it when it got close….it will pop in but is kinda sketchy. I actually used a chain to tether it.
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Spoon
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JUL 30, 08:35 PM
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CVXJET, Your compressor set is like the set I bought. Late-Formula, I was thinking about cutting off some length on the draw bolts, but came up with plan "B"..
I used (1) compressor of the set to begin the arc I needed which got me half way there. I then used the flat handle end of a looooog adjustable wrench and was able to pry the bottom of the spring across the top of the perch. I then used the floor jack to lift the control arm high enough to connect the upper ball joint. The aid of a car lift also made things go better.
Don't clap yet. How much effort should it take to swing the spindle assembly across its arc? A few years ago I replaced the upper & lower ball joints and today I had to use both hands with considerable effort to swing them. I regreased everything and they're still tight. I have power steering so I never notice anything at the wheel inside. Yes, the tie rods were also disconnected. Other vehicles, I can swing the spindle with barley any effort when the tie rods are disconnected. What gives? And thanks for the info on the springs.. ps: Maybe I should start a new topic on the tight spindles.. Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut [This message has been edited by Spoon (edited 07-31-2023).]
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