Hard Manual Shifting Into Gears (Page 1/5)
Fieros4evr AUG 03, 03:01 PM
I can imagine there have been numerous postings about this problem and was able to find a couple of topics, but I decided to discuss my situation in detail. I have a 1987 Base / Iron Duke / 5 Speed. Master & Slave replaced yesterday, bled 3+ times and nothing has improved shift wise. When the engine is off, I can shift in all gears with the clutch pushed and not pushed. But when the engine is running, no shifting allowance in any gears. My do-it-yourself fiero repair level is low experience and I am reaching out to see if anybody could provide their thoughts towards this problem. Thanks in advance.

[This message has been edited by Fieros4evr (edited 08-03-2023).]

Patrick AUG 03, 03:24 PM

quote
Originally posted by Fieros4evr:

I can imagine there have been numerous postings about this problem and was able to find a couple of topics, but I decided to discuss my situation in detail.



This has been discussed about a million times at this forum. Here are almost 70 threads to start with. There are only so many ways we can ask... how far above your brake pedal does the clutch pedal sit at rest... how far does your slave move when the clutch is pushed to the floor... etc.

Did you buy a double seal slave from Rodney? If not, you've made things much tougher on yourself.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-03-2023).]

Fieros4evr AUG 03, 06:21 PM
Hi Patrick,

Thank you for responding. Here is the current positioning of the clutch pedal
Fieros4evr AUG 03, 06:32 PM
I couldn’t download the short video of the slave cylinder in action, but the first photo shows the slave cylinder not depressed. The second photo is the slave cylinder status with the clutch pedal pressed towards the floor.

[This message has been edited by Fieros4evr (edited 08-03-2023).]

stevep914 AUG 03, 06:55 PM
I am no expert, but have been through this myself. First, your photo shows a clutch pedal LOWER than your brake pedal- should be the other way around. Second, your clutch pedal arm appears to be twisted- a common problem with many Fieros. The travel on your slave pushrod from your before and after photo would indicate not enough pushrod travel to activate the clutch. I would go first with the bent clutch pedal; replacing that would maybe solve your problem. Look at it underneath and see if the pin for the master pushrod and banjo is at right angles to the rest of the pedal arm. There are threads with pictures that show the good and the bad ( I don’t know how to download them. ) If that doesn’t fix your problem, bleeding procedure is also well covered on this forum. There is, as Patrick stated, TONS of info dealing with this issue. At some time or another, all of us will probably deal with it!
Fieros4evr AUG 03, 07:31 PM
Stevep914, Thank you! The information you’ve provided is appreciated. I am new to this website and will look for more information related. Have a good day.
Patrick AUG 03, 07:46 PM

quote
Originally posted by stevep914:

...your clutch pedal arm appears to be twisted- a common problem with many Fieros.



Steve, we've been down this road before.


quote
Originally posted by stevep914:

One other thing: I believe my pedal is aluminum, not steel it has an interesting twist in it. Not knowing what anything other than mine looks like, and assuming a bent pedal would provide a consistant problem, I don’t know if this is a contributing factor. Anyone able to post a picture of a normal clutch pedal I could compare mine to? I know many have converted to a steel pedal when the stock one bent.




quote
Originally posted by Patrick Here:

Steve, they all have an "interesting twist". That's how they're made. What you're looking for is a bent bracket on the pedal. I first posted this photo of my clutch pedals ages ago.



If your clutch pedal sits 1-1/2" above your brake pedal as you reported, it's probably fine... although I still think that's higher than usual. Is your banjo adjustable?
Patrick AUG 03, 07:51 PM
Fieros4evr, your clutch pedal is definitely bent. An adjustable banjo may rectify the problem.

This is one that I made using a 5/16"-18 coupling nut...



Those images of your slave movement would be great... if you had placed a tape measure or ruler in view to show the distance it's traveling. I suspect however with the amount your pedal is bent that it isn't the 1-1/8" required.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-03-2023).]

Fieros4evr AUG 03, 09:27 PM
Thank you Patrick for your recommendations. Attached are 2 images. I did the best I could placing the ruler in that limited space area. The first photo is the clutch slave measurement without the clutch pedal not pushed. The 2nd image is the clutch cylinder extended distance with the clutch pedal pressed towards the floor.
Patrick AUG 03, 09:40 PM

quote
Originally posted by Fieros4evr:

I did the best I could placing the ruler in that limited space area.



Well, unfortunately it's next to impossible to tell from those photos how far the slave is actually traveling... but you now know it needs to be at least 1-1/8".

When the clutch pedal bracket gets bent, the pedal then hits the floor before the master is able to travel its full stroke... which then limits the travel of the slave. An adjustable banjo can often help regain enough travel... as long as the pedal isn't bent excessively.