So my Fiero died... (Page 1/12)
Cliff Pennock JUL 10, 05:16 AM
TL;DR - Just skip to the "Radiator" part. 😉

Well, it's not completely dead yet, but it needs intensive care at the least.

The car has been leaking coolant for quite some time now but I was never able to find where it was leaking. It wasn't much, perhaps 2 quarts each 1-2 months (ok that's actually a lot, but it meant it wasn't a large leak). Also temperatures were all over the place during the first 15 minutes of a drive. Temperature would rise to about 215F but then within seconds drop to about 175, then rise again, and so on. But like I said, it would do this only during the first 15 minutes of a drive after which the temperature would be stable at around 175. Since I never saw any wet spots under the car (from coolant), my oil was not milky and I didn't see white smoke coming from the exhaust pipes, I figured I was leaking coolant as steam somewhere. I also was very slowly losing transmission oil so the radiator has always been suspect.

Normally I know when it's time to refill coolant when it takes longer for the temperature fluctuations to go away. Which is usually after about 1-2 months. As said, it takes 2 quarts to fill it up again.

Anyways, I hadn't noticed any of that in the past few days. Which isn't strange since I filled coolant a few weeks ago. But today, I noticed that temperature wouldn't go down and it was slowly climbing towards the red. I was on the highway so at least it was getting some extra cooling. But when I drove into the city, temperature rose quickly up until the point it was well past the red so I quickly stopped the car. When I got out, I noticed a wide trail of coolant behind the car and a large puddle of coolant quickly formed under the front. Looking under the car I saw it was leaking over the entire width of the radiator, but most was coming from the right side. Inspecting the radiator, it was otherwise dry (and cool to the touch) so it must have been leaking from the very bottom.

Since I was somewhere where I couldn't leave the car, I let the car cool for 30 minutes while I walked to a nearby gas station, bought 4 quarts of coolant and poured that in the Fiero. It immediately started pouring out of the front, so I started the car and quickly drove to a place where I could park the car for a longer period. This also happened to be right next to a car repair shop. I got there in time, temperature had just reached red.

Radiator
I'm pretty sure it's the radiator itself and not the hoses or anything because they looked dry. So now I am on the lookout for a radiator. I've seen them on AliExpress for about $150 with free shipping from China. Haven't read anything negative about them. In fact, the exact same ones are sold under different brand names for a lot more.

How difficult is it to replace a radiator? Is that something I can do at the side of the road? Or should I just buy the radiator and let the repair shop do it?
Mike in Sydney JUL 10, 06:45 AM
Cliff, you could do it on the side of the road but I recommend that you get a shop to do it. I’d have them pressure test it before it’s installed and the shop should have the equipment to do it.

BTW, I’m chipping in AUD $50 to help you out. I’m challenging the rest of the Forum members to put their hand in their pockets to help. C’mon, folks, after what Cliff has done for us, surely we can help him with this.
Dukesterpro JUL 10, 09:02 AM
Hi cliff,

Replacing the radiator is easy as pie, just hand tools and some grit.

I will chip in a couple bucks as soon as I can!
RWDPLZ JUL 10, 10:21 AM
Geeze I thought the engine died. Replacing the radiator is easy. I replaced 4 in a 6 month span at one point because I kept trying to use a stock replacement type with the plastic side tanks, and they always developed a leak, if not immediately, after just a few months. The all-aluminum ones are the way to go, better cooling and no more leaks. The hardest part of the job is getting the transmission cooler lines threaded back on, use a flare nut wrench. Second hardest is getting the old hoses off, get new ones and new hose clamps. You can easily remove the hood yourself, two bolts at each hinge and the ones holding the prop/latch mechanism at the front, then you have easy access. Maybe a 2 hour job your first time.

Remove hood
Remove upper radiator support bracket
Remove radiator fan/shroud assembly
Remove upper hose
Remove lower hose
Remove trans cooler lines


Found a video:
Cliff Pennock JUL 10, 11:31 AM
Yeah, I ended up ordering the one from AliExpress. By the looks of it, it is the same one WCF is selling. Also, it says it's not shipped from China but from Czechoslovakia so shipping is 4-10 days. And at $150 including shipping, that's a steal.
css9450 JUL 10, 11:48 AM
I bought the all-aluminum 3-row Champion radiator that Fiero Store is selling; it's probably the exact same item as the other brands just in a different box. It's going to be tighter going back in since it doesn't fit on the rubber bumpers the same was as the original did. But you shouldn't need to remove the hood; I never have.

I think the factory-style single-row radiators (the ones with plastic tanks) have been out of stock for awhile now.
Cliff Pennock JUL 10, 01:56 PM
Thanks all for the answers! And of course, many thanks for the monetary help! As for the latter, I do want to make it clear this is not the reason why I posted the thread. In fact, it's why I sometimes refrain from posting such questions because I'm afraid people might think that...

I'm now thinking of trying to replace the radiator myself. If I mess up, the car is in front of the repair shop so they should be able to finish the job. On the other hand, if I let them do it, I have some sort of warranty on the repair... 😁
theogre JUL 10, 05:19 PM
Replacing the Rad isn't very hard... Normally...
"Rust" can get to any hardware, frame, etc.
If have Auto Trans... Must have flare nut wrench(es) 1 to turn nut holding cooler line, 1 to hold the fitting between that and rad side.

Flare Nut wrenches are "open end" type but uses more metal to not wreck the soft nut.

To tighten, setup so wrenches can act like pliers then squeeze the 2 together. Flares of most types Hate Morons that over torque them and good way to fail later or now depending exactly what joint is in/on whatever. Example: Flairs at Brake MC can crush shut the MC hole when over torqued.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Mike in Sydney JUL 10, 06:50 PM

quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

Thanks all for the answers! And of course, many thanks for the monetary help! As for the latter, I do want to make it clear this is not the reason why I posted the thread. In fact, it's why I sometimes refrain from posting such questions because I'm afraid people might think that...



We know you aren't begging for money. It's a pleasure to help out. Think of this as payback for you "paying it forward" with the Forum.
Fie Ro JUL 11, 07:30 AM
Let me know if you want some help with the install. I am a hour away and I have time. I have tools but not a flare nut wrench, maybe the repair shop has one or you could order it. Aliexpress has them cheap also.