Who's an expert on stock radios ? (Page 1/2)
ArthurPeale AUG 08, 04:58 PM
I was lucky enough to have a stock radio fall into my lap. But, it wasn't working properly.

Research showed me that there were three capacitors until one of the heatsinks that were bad - and, this was the case. Replaced them and the sound in the right channel was returned.

One of the long-term projects for this build was to incorporate Bluetooth into the stock radio. Since this one fell into my lap and was now functional, it was the perfect candidate for experimentation.

I broke open a car charger and wired the input into the +12VDC on the harness that only turns on when you turn the radio on - connected F as seen here

https://pcbisolation.com/bl...o-a-90s-delco-radio/

I then wired the power output of that charger into this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D94PGCG/

then, wired the output of that Bluetooth module into to the amplifier on pins 3 & 4 on connector "F"

When I plugged the stereo in - the stereo worked, the module didn't. You could see the light from the power adapter through the cracks.

I removed the module, and bench tested it - dead as a doornail. Huh.

And, now, the stereo isn't working correctly. It's acting like the main board isn't plugged in. I'm assuming that I may have either broken a wire internally, or a solder joint, in the many disassemblies.
IMSA GT AUG 08, 05:16 PM
Nevermind, I misunderstood the "car charger" as a 12 volt battery charger, not as a 5 volt device charger for a cigarette lighter plug.

[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 08-08-2023).]

ArthurPeale AUG 08, 05:42 PM

quote
Originally posted by IMSA GT:

Nevermind, I misunderstood the "car charger" as a 12 volt battery charger, not as a 5 volt device charger for a cigarette lighter plug.




oh, haha, whoops, sorry. Yes, a 12VDC to 5VDC power adapter. I could have bought a transistor and made one, but why reinvent the wheel? All of the hard work was done for me.
Duck 1 AUG 08, 06:30 PM
When I bought my 88 GT it had an original factory radio in it Lights would come on but that was al. I found an old time radio repair shop here in Jacksonville , Fl. who fixed it .but be prepared for the repair bill, mine was 300.00, however it works perfect .
Vintage-Nut AUG 08, 10:16 PM

quote
BTW, aluminum electrolytic capacitors are the 'weak link', and they'll gradually lose capacitance which the ‘typical’ life expectancy is about 20 years.

By replacing them and members who can solder, capacitors are cheap and buy 'Audio' capacitors.
ArthurPeale AUG 09, 08:07 PM

quote
Originally posted by Vintage-Nut:

BTW, aluminum electrolytic capacitors are the 'weak link', and they'll gradually lose capacitance which the ‘typical’ life expectancy is about 20 years.

By replacing them and members who can solder, capacitors are cheap and buy 'Audio' capacitors.



way ahead of you, and already done. I mentioned that in my first post.

I'm trying to figure out if I fried the Bluetooth board in the manner in which I installed it.

Also, which thing did I hurt on the radio the last time I reassembled it.
Vintage-Nut AUG 09, 09:27 PM
I'm NOT an expert on stock radios, however I'll help if I can.....

So, if I understand correctly:
Connected the 12V to 5V adapter on the head unit +12V
Connected the 5V adapter output to the Bluetooth module 5V input
Connected the output of that Bluetooth module into to the amplifier

BUT I didn't see that you install a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switch to change from Stereo to Bluetooth.

IF the Bluetooth module is connected into to the amplifier while the stereo lines are connected too; one or both can short circuit....

Edit: The commons on the DPDT switch are for the AMP side; the load terminals are the Stereo line and Bluetooth line

[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 08-10-2023).]

ArthurPeale AUG 10, 01:31 PM

quote
Originally posted by Vintage-Nut:


BUT I didn't see that you install a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switch to change from Stereo to Bluetooth.

IF the Bluetooth module is connected into to the amplifier while the stereo lines are connected too; one or both can short circuit....

Edit: The commons on the DPDT switch are for the AMP side; the load terminals are the Stereo line and Bluetooth line




That's true, I didn't bother, as what I was attempting was a proof-of-concept idea.

What I thought was going to happen (until I could source and wire in a switch) was that both would play at the same time. It's an input...or, I thought that it was.

IF it worked, I'd wire in the switch.

Most of the boards people have been using to shoehorn in Bluetooth are significantly more expensive. This one was three bucks. If it worked that would be awesome.
Vintage-Nut AUG 10, 03:29 PM
Lesson Learned?
ArthurPeale AUG 10, 07:50 PM

quote
Originally posted by Vintage-Nut:

Lesson Learned?



Dunno. Other people who have done this didn't bother with a switch. It should have been only an input on those wires, now I'm wondering if there's feedback.

I need to set up a test bench so that I can probe without the radio needing to be in the vehicle.