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Need Help in Texas (engine is dying) (Page 1/2) |
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Forrest
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SEP 07, 10:08 AM
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Hey Brothers and Sisters in Fieroland, I have an 88 Fiero GT stock 3 speed auto with 118k miles that I daily drive to the bus stop with a bottom end knock. I assume I have a bearing failure and eventually she is gonna blow. I have taken good care of the car while I have had it but it was severely neglected when i bought it. She has a straight body with little to no rust. Very clean car underneath. I guess the first thing I would like to know is does anyone in Texas have a good motor they want to sell?
I know she is worthy of saving given her overall condition and I also know this is the time where a lot of folks do a swap. Thing is while I am a competent mechanic I cannot find a single source on a good swap. The documentation is fragmented and kinda old with missing pictures and links to websites for brackets and what not that do not work. Besides...the 3800 engines are all old at this point and I dunno that I see any value in pulling an old worn out engine to drop in very expensive mods to install another old worn out engine. I am very comfortable under the hood of any car but I do not do fabrication work. I cannot weld or any of the skills needed to do a newer swap. I am suprised Kswaps are not wildly popular but as much as I hate to admit it...I think the fiero community is slowly dying.
Thank you all for helping me get this rig running 4 years ago and I appreciate any suggestions you could offer. Right now with my skillset I am leaning toward just getting another fiero engine....if a good one is available.
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Vintage-Nut
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SEP 07, 10:19 AM
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Why not rebuild the original V6 than a 'swap'? ------------------ Original Owner of a '88 GT and under 'Production Refurbishment'
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Forrest
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SEP 07, 10:27 AM
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quote | Originally posted by Vintage-Nut:
Why not rebuild the original V6 than a 'swap'?
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Where do you get a rebuild kit? Can anyone recommend one that 100% has everything you need and all the parts fit...no fabricating or "making parts work" needed?[This message has been edited by Forrest (edited 09-07-2023).]
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Vintage-Nut
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SEP 07, 10:31 AM
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When rebuilding, you won't get the 'domino effect' of fabricating parts if you stay 'stock' and many members will advise a bigger motor!
I use and like RockAuto.....
Examples https://www.rockauto.com/en...ine+rebuild+kit,5316
Years ago, I started by getting the block hot tanked and then build-up. If the cylinders are 'good' then the pistons maybe reused with new rings. I didn't use a 'kit' and purchased each part separately to get the 'brand quality' I wanted. If you decide on a kit, hold back until the Bore Size, Rod Bearing Size and Main Bearing Size are known.
Edit:
Perhaps PFF Members who have rebuilt engines will 'chime in'...
Full Kit Examples:
"Please call Professional Engine Rebuilders at (360)984-5979" https://proenginerebuilders...uild-kit-mkc173j-25/
The Fiero Store https://www.fierostore.com/...%20%208788&d=204&p=1[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 09-07-2023).]
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Mike in Sydney
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SEP 08, 12:04 AM
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I'd be inclined to check out the 3.1L, LHO at the Dallas South Central Pick and Pull yard. You could throw a rebuild kit at it using the parts from your car and come away with a nice upgrade.
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Vintage-Nut
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SEP 08, 12:39 AM
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82-T/A [At Work]
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SEP 08, 10:29 AM
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I would like to re-emphasize this that Vintage-Nut said as well.
A 3.4 is really the optimal solution, in my opinion. You can get a short-block for around $2,000, fully assembled, and everything just transfers from the 2.8 to the 3.4. The only modification you need to do is drill and tap a single hole in the block. And you can do this with a kit from Rodney Dickman for $89: http://rodneydickman.com/pr....php?products_id=194
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Raydar
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SEP 08, 11:14 AM
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quote | Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: I would like to re-emphasize this that Vintage-Nut said as well.
A 3.4 is really the optimal solution, in my opinion. You can get a short-block for around $2,000, fully assembled, and everything just transfers from the 2.8 to the 3.4. The only modification you need to do is drill and tap a single hole in the block. And you can do this with a kit from Rodney Dickman for $89: http://rodneydickman.com/pr....php?products_id=194
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Well... it's really two holes. But still not a big deal. The hardest part of it is that one of the holes (the outside) will have to be drilled into a "slanted" surface. There is also an adapter fitting that will be needed for the oil pressure tube. But, again, Rodney sells all that stuff.
The alternative to the 3.4 is rebuild your own motor into a 3.1. It will require different pistons and crank. Period. The rods, and everything else, will be the same. Or find an iron-head 3.1 minivan motor. Late 80s - Early 90s. Change the cam. (The minivan had a very mild cam.)
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Forrest
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SEP 08, 11:27 AM
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quote | Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: I would like to re-emphasize this that Vintage-Nut said as well.
A 3.4 is really the optimal solution, in my opinion. You can get a short-block for around $2,000, fully assembled, and everything just transfers from the 2.8 to the 3.4. The only modification you need to do is drill and tap a single hole in the block. And you can do this with a kit from Rodney Dickman for $89: http://rodneydickman.com/pr....php?products_id=194
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Yeah this sounds like a good solution...little boost in power as well. I recently replaced the suspension all the way around...with a new motor it will feel like a newish car :-) Thanks for the suggestions guys! I have hope!
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fierofool
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SEP 08, 12:09 PM
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Like Raydar said, the 3.1 is a straight swap using the Chevy Lumina APV engine. You would want to replace the cam bearings at the same time as the crank, rods, and pistons. No starter relocation required. It uses the stock Fiero injectors so you don't have to fight injector selection as you would with the 3.4.
I have both a 3.4 and a 3.1. It took 3 sets of injectors and converting to the 7730 DIS ignition system before I got my injector issues sorted out. The 3.4 gives you about 20 extra HP in its stock form and a lot of torque. The 3.1 is the same HP as the 2.8 but you get more torque. I used a 91 Beretta flywheel on both engines.
If you want to go the drop-in route without the delay of building it yourself, you may consider ARI Engines https://engine-parts.com/online-store/
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