Rodney Dickman's 88 front wheel bearings (Page 1/1)
Rickady88GT OCT 07, 11:58 AM
I bought a set of Dickman's front bearings a little while back, and just decided to install them. My question is about adjustment. I followed the included instructions of finger tight nut, tighten 1/4 turn, turn the hub at least 10 times, back off the nut, retighten hand tight. The "issue" or question is,.... should I feel play in the bearings after adjustment? The stock bearings had very little play in them, but I could feel some play. These new bearings have much more noticeable play in them. Is this normal for this bearing, or should the wheel feel little to no play?
Thanks, Rick
lateFormula OCT 07, 02:09 PM
I was a bit confused when I first read your post, as the 88s have a sealed bearing/hub unit that is not serviceable. But years ago I also purchased a set of Rodney's front bearings and they are still in their boxes, as I had replaced my front bearings with GM OE units and have never needed to replace those. But I did grab one of the Rodney bearings off the shelf and opened the box to see. The bearing appears to be a standard sealed, non serviceable unit, and the one I checked did have noticeable play just holding it in my hands. I know that the Rodney bearings are roller bearing design, not ball bearing like the OE units. If you've taken the cover off the back and are able to adjust it, roller bearings need to be pre-loaded a bit; they should not spin freely, nor have play in them. Now if following the instructions results in the bearing still having play, you could pre-load them like old school hubs & spindles were designed. If the sizing of the bearings and races are correct and within tolerance, they can be pre-loaded and will function correctly. If the bearings and races are not properly sized to each other, then pre-loading them will lead to rapid wear and early failure.
kingchr JUN 13, 03:56 AM
Bumping this thread with a bit more info in case someone finds it looking for this information.

It appears looking at Rodney's site today that he now has a newer design for front 88 hubs that uses replaceable inner and outer bearings and races. So I would think you would set these up like any old school car with this type of bearing configuration installed from the factory. I may be doing it wrong but I have always tightened the bearing till I felt a SLIGHT amount of drag spinning the wheel, then turn the wheel a few times and then if the wheel still feels about the same tighten the castle nut to the next castilation and pin it. Afterwards should be able to spin it again with the same feeling and hopefully minimal end play.
Patrick JUN 13, 05:05 AM

quote
Originally posted by kingchr:

I would think you would set these up like any old school car with this type of bearing configuration installed from the factory.



Just so all the installation information is readily available, here is what Rodney himself says about the process.


quote

From Here:

This is my way of setting a slotted castle nut on an typical automotive front wheel bearing. There has to be a slight amount of play in them or the grease will get all pushed to the sides and the tapered rollers will overheat and start to fail.

(1) Tighten the castle nut finger tight.

(2) Use a channel locks and tighten the castle nut slightly more. 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

(3) Rotate the hub several times (10 is suggested).

(4) Loosen the castle nut using the channel locks.

(5) Tighten the castle nut finger tight.

(6) Observe the slots in the castle nut compared to the holes in the spindle. You need to back off the castle nut a minimum of one slot. So if a slot lines up perfectly with a hole - back off the castle nut one slot and install the pin. If the castle nut does not line up back it off until it does line up with a hole in the spindle then back the castle nut off one more slot. So your looseness range is one slot to 1.99 slots. An exception to this: If when finger tight the hole in the spindle is around half visible or more you can back it off just one slot.

(7) Install the cotter pin. Push the pin all the way into the slot. The large end of the pin fits perfectly into a slot so it has no chance of rotating.
theogre JUN 13, 08:13 AM
Most to All wheel bearing will have very small play when installed because Hate All Preload.
see https://web.archive.org/web...erocave/fbearing.htm

RD kit is No Different but doesn't mention have 2 holes or not for cotter pin like most factory front spindles. From pictures on site doesn't seem to have this feature.

If not there, Don't try to add second hole to RD kit. Several ways will be done wrong & may weaken the spindle.

The 2 holes are at slightly different angles & use first hole that can see thru nut or back off the nut to see. Gives finer adjustment then any castle nut resulting less final play in the bearings.

And most sealed hubs like for Fiero rear axle have some play because Hate Preload too. Is why must not over torque the axle bearings because can crush the spacers in the set too tight.

And will often feel that play on the wheels because act as amplifiers to feel any tiny amount of play in the bearings.

------------------
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