Headlight lubriation & frame alignment (Page 1/1)
ZaraSpOOk OCT 12, 08:37 PM
So I checked the dowels, they are in good condition, so are the brushes. Headlight starts to come up, then stops, goes down. I got to looking at it, there is a lot of room for missaligning the frame, the square cutout allows for at least 5/16th of an inch play up, down, and almost 3/8ths of an inch diagonal. Also got to thinking, this is plastic on plastic, could misalignment and lack of lube keep the headlight from going up, anybody ever seen or heard of that?

what got me thinking about lube was the video posted in another thread, the guy literally filled the gear area with grease, while I won't say that can cause any problems, seems like extreme overkill. I simply used a small amount of white lithium.
theogre OCT 12, 10:53 PM
1. The gear section Does Not need to filled w/ Grease. Just on the gear(s) & a bit more on pivot points.
2. The Gear(s) need Plastic Safe Grease. I use Permatex Green Brake Grease because plastic/rubber safe & doesn't run or dry out.
3. Almost everything else have Plastic Bearings/Bushings & Do Not lube them. Not Even w/ Dry Formulas or Graphite. If the Pivots allow taking apart, clean all then spray Dry Teflon on the Metal Parts Only & let them dry out before reassemble. Teflon is "inert" but other chemicals in the can could "eat" the plastic until dry.
Same rule applies any time you see those bushings like in Brake/Clutch Pedal pivot.

Anything Wet/Sticky hold Dirt that Eats Plastic Parts & often fast.

All HL motors can also have problems w/ adjusting or worn motor shaft bearing @ bottom of motor.
Gen2 need very little "run out" & parts wear can cause binding & module think Jam & shuts off. Like many other bearings Hates Preloading.
Gen1 needs some "run out" to work the limit switches but most people "rebuilding" them screws up the adjustment too.

⚠️ Warning: if you take out the screw... 1 Very Small BB will often be loose & easy lost.

Lift Alignment w/ Doors is harder then nearly all think.
Only 4 spots on the lift should hit the door. see https://www.fiero.nl/forum/.../HTML/140521.html#p7
If other things hit the door, can/will bind & stop the operation. Either parts are damage or have installed the lift assembly too far left or right. Or "twisted" so the lift only hits 1 bearing strip on the door.
HL Bulb bottom should barely clear the Hood when Doors are Open for vertical lift adjustment. So Mech Aimers can fit the Bulbs to aim them. Example: see Hoppy headlight aim tool(s) https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/146450.html

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-12-2023).]

fierofool OCT 13, 09:48 AM
I've rebuilt a lot of Generation 1 motors, which sounds like what you have. I agree with The Ogre about the amount and type of grease used inside the motor. I use Permatex Synthetic Brake Grease to avoid damage to plastic components. It's a ceramic compound. I only fill the teeth of the large gear and the teeth of the intermediate small gear. Those gears will transfer lube to other components like the motor screw gear.

To properly align the housing, note that there are two teflon rub strips on the underside of the headlight door. There are two points on the assembly that rub against those strips to lift the door. Loosen the 4 retainer nuts and align those rub points equally to those strips. They should make contact at the same time.

Another area that will cause partial opening is the triangular piece of the mechanism that mounts to the short lift arm. If it's installed incorrectly between the long arm and the short arm the system will lock up prematurely and not fully open. I suggest removing the assembly and manually turning the motor to verify that it will travel its full range. As many as I've done, I've occasionally made this mistake. If it doesn't hit the two rubber strips clipped onto the housing, it's installed incorrectly.

Do not lube the hinge points of the mechanism, as The Ogre states, lube collects debris. You can use a silicone spray if it dries to an invisible film, but do so with the mechanism out and away from the car. Silicone travels and can create problems elsewhere, especially if a car is to be repainted. Never use it in an engine bay. It isn't oxygen sensor friendly.
theogre OCT 13, 10:42 AM
Easiest way to install motors to lift parts is straighten the link to attach it to the motor.

Link Doesn't need full length strait. Just straighten enough so each section = long, short & bell arm order from 'bucket' to motor.
Just rotate motor so link isn't hitting the end stops.

Then link will figure out folding up or not by itself first time used.

Lower frame should have 2 rubber sections where link hits. If gone need it find new rubber. Can cut piece of something else then glue it to lower frame.
theogre OCT 13, 10:48 AM

quote
Originally posted by fierofool:
I've rebuilt a lot of Generation 1 motors, which sounds like what you have...

???


quote
Originally posted by ZaraSpOOk:
So I checked the dowels, .

Most often means Gen2.
ArthurPeale OCT 13, 03:21 PM
is Lucas Red n Tacky okay to use for this ?
fierofool OCT 13, 03:47 PM
ZaraSpook, If you completely opened the motor, were you careful to retain the tiny single ball bearing that the motor screw shaft sits on at the bottom?
theogre OCT 13, 10:48 PM

quote
Originally posted by ArthurPeale:
is Lucas Red n Tacky okay to use for this ?

No.
Most "Lithium" greases are Not Plastic Safe & have additives that "eat" or Swell them over time.
IOW same problem as most other oil/grease including most Syn products.
buddycraigg OCT 16, 08:34 PM
Are you having this problem with just one or both?
Do they go up if you have hood open?