Tubular A arms and coil overs. (Page 1/1)
88TTops NOV 26, 06:14 PM
So, I have been saving for these mods, I have no welder or welding experience. Is this something worth it or should I just replace all my front-end stock with poly? My car needs new struts and she's clanky but I have almost all poly on her now and still rides on rails besides highway. 80+ is supper sketchy, and rain is another gamble as she floats all over the place. I don't want to have to do a lot of fabrication to make this setup work. My fiero is #931 of 1256 as a real CJB, it was given to me from my father who got cancer and couldn't drive it anymore. He didn't even know how rare it was unit I told him. So my question is, should I just rebuild the suspension with some better struts? Or should I do the tubular A-arms and go coil overs? I already have the full Koni struts on it but they are cooked. Its time for something new, Also want to throw in a 3800 SC before my dad passes so I can take him for a RIP as he loves fiero, made me a fiero guy and wants to own a SKY but cant feel his legs so that is not going to happen... Thanks guys any advice on the A arms or if its worth it would help. I started to drift off my main question, I don't want to have to modify all the suspension to make it work.
lateFormula NOV 26, 06:35 PM
The 88 suspension is capable of carving corners well beyond the limits of most tires, provided all the components are in good condition and the alignment of all four wheels is within spec. Given the age of the car at this point, original suspension bushings could be deteriorating and replacement with poly may be your only choice. If the car has never been in an accident that could have tweaked the structure or rear subframe, you should be able to make that car handle as if it is almost glued to the ground with new bushings, new shocks and struts; and most of all, a good four wheel alignment. If the car is sketchy at speed you may need to have a frame shop or body shop check it over for damage to the structure of the car. Or it could just be that the bushings and shocks/struts need replacement. Start small and work your way up the list.
cvxjet NOV 27, 01:54 AM
The 88 has the best suspension- the only real "weakness" is replacement front bearing/hubs...If you need those definitely talk to Rodney Dickman.

One thing that most people do not get with suspension- TUNING it is far more important than the actual pieces. I took a '73 Mustang and modified the (Basically) stock suspension to a point where a friend who autocrossed a BMW 3 series (And had raced a very modified 69 Shelby) test drove it and stated afterwards that it "Out handled and out rode my 3-series"

One problem that mid-engine cars have more difficulty dealing with is Good turn-in vs Drop-Throttle-Oversteer(Also called Lift-Off Oversteer)...You improve one and the other gets worse. I did some odd things in mounting my stabilizer bars that really improved turn-in while also making the DTO problem better. Here is a link to my thread on stabilizer bar mounting; https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/140674.html

I also actually like the stamped-steel arms; Forged aluminum and welded tubular arms look wonderful and perform well- but most will break in any "extracurricular" situation....The stamped-steel arms can take a lot of abuse- usually they will bend a bit but continue to work- and get you home.
olejoedad NOV 27, 07:50 AM
Stay with stock suspension pieces,.replace the bushings and get the KONIs rebuilt.

Do NOT go coil over or tubular.
88TTops NOV 27, 11:51 PM
Based on the posts I will stick with the stock A arms and just finish the front end, As far as the speed wobbles I will look into the front-end bearings but I think it is the inner tie rods on the rack and pinion. thank you for all your responses, you have saved me 1000's as I was about to order all the stuff. I will stick to KNY for now, because I have the ball joints and the poly bushings already. Thank you
Larryinkc NOV 28, 10:01 AM
Check the steering rack bushing on the passenger side and front and rear hubs. My 88 had a loose rear hub and the plastic steering rack bushing was broken causing it to wander at highway speed. Rodney has a bronze bushing that fixed the steering rack and I found a pair of NOS rear hubs on ebay that took care of the rear.

Mine had poly bushings in the rear lateral links and trailing arms. I would hear a clunk sometimes going from off to on throttle. The trailing arm bolts were snug but not tight. I tightened them to spec which fixed the clunk for a bit but it came back. It turned out the center sleeves in the poly bushings would compress when the bolts were torqued to spec. I made new center sleeves out of DOM thick wall steel tube and bored the poly bushings to fit, it's been good now for several years. Rodney has new rubber bushings for the trailing arms available now which might have been an easier fix. I made a set of lateral links out of steel swedge tubes and forged rod ends from Speedway Motors. After a good 4 wheel alignment it handles great now, no noises from the rear suspension and much more enjoyable to drive.
cam-a-lot NOV 29, 06:58 AM
bad front wheel bearings won't cause the wobble. They will howl and be noisy , and actually warm to the touch compared to the good side.

Also check all the supension bolts (front and rear) for correct torque. The long bolt in the 88 rear knuckle sometimes comes loose and causes the car to steer off center under acceleration.

As others said- there is nothing wrong with the stock suspension. Just replace worn components, tighten everything to spec, and get a proper 4 wheel alignment to factory specs . Don't let the shop guess at the specs or use incorrect data from their alignment machine. Hand them the 88 specs, including the "jounce" of the front suspension.
La fiera NOV 29, 05:21 PM
Fellow member Blacktree had a set of tubular arms from WCF and they buckled very bad!!