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BruhMans06
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JAN 23, 05:01 PM
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so I finished rebuilding the motor and got it running, not running great, but it was running. The issue I had was it was leaking coolant profusely from the top of the bl;ock and was smoking like hell out of the exhaust. I decided to pull the head off and the headgaskket ended up being the issue which I was not surpised about. Now the issue was that literaly every coolant passage was leaking into every single cylinder, whjich raised the question. why? I torqued everything to spec (I think) and it was a brand new head gasket. I followed the instructions of slowly raising the torque of each bolt to let the gasket seat properly. The only thing I did not do... was replacing the headbolts (which i will do this time so dont give me a hard time about it).
other than the headbolts, I believe I did everything properly, so why did it leak from almost every passage?
is it supposed to be in a specific orientation?
Please help!
thanks much
------------------
James Bird
Certified Idiot
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82-T/A [At Work]
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JAN 23, 06:53 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by BruhMans06:
so I finished rebuilding the motor and got it running, not running great, but it was running. The issue I had was it was leaking coolant profusely from the top of the bl;ock and was smoking like hell out of the exhaust. I decided to pull the head off and the headgaskket ended up being the issue which I was not surpised about. Now the issue was that literaly every coolant passage was leaking into every single cylinder, whjich raised the question. why? I torqued everything to spec (I think) and it was a brand new head gasket. I followed the instructions of slowly raising the torque of each bolt to let the gasket seat properly. The only thing I did not do... was replacing the headbolts (which i will do this time so dont give me a hard time about it).
other than the headbolts, I believe I did everything properly, so why did it leak from almost every passage?
is it supposed to be in a specific orientation?
Please help!
thanks much
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Is this an Iron Duke / Tech-4? You didn't state which engine you had.
I know that when I rebuilt my 84 2m4 SE engine a couple of decades ago, I had a similar problem. Make sure you follow the torque sequence as laid out in the Chiltons / Haynes manual. But also... some of the bolts require a special sealant on the thread in order to prevent coolant from leaking into the rest of the engine. SOMETIMES... when you buy a new set of bolts, this tape / sealer will already be on it. Make sure you do not re-use the old bolts... if you didn't already know that.
Note, it's not the end of the world that you now have a milkshake running through your engine. But you'll want to drain the oil, and get it back together pretty quickly so that you can run it again fairly soon with fresh oil. It'll just burn off any water / coolant left in the oil passages, and it shouldn't be a big deal in the long run...
What year engine is this?[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 01-23-2024).]
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theogre
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JAN 24, 09:36 AM
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Duke needs right sequence but also 1 bolt have different torque.
find Fiero FSM or buy alldatadiy for a year.------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
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Dukesterpro
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JAN 24, 09:38 AM
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Prepare to receive your hard time.
Im assuming this is 2.5L.
You need to read the entire instructions and follow them to the letter. Headbolts on the Iron Duke are of the Torque-to-Yield variety. This mean that when you torque them down (usually 92ft\lbs+120*) they stretch. If you try to reuse them they will stretch pass the point of elasticity and result in all sorts of head sealing issues.
Your gonna have to start over. This time follow all the instructions and you should be fine.[This message has been edited by Dukesterpro (edited 01-24-2024).]
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Vintage-Nut
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JAN 24, 10:08 AM
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| quote | Dukesterpro:
Headbolts on the Iron Duke are of the Torque-to-Yield variety. |
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Both 2.5L and 2.8L engines uses Torque-to-Yield Cylinder Head Bolts - NEVER reuse these bolts!
Torque-to-Yield (T2Y) bolts deforms during this process, which is why they should not be reused.
| quote | BruhMans06:
other than the headbolts, I believe I did everything properly, so why did it leak from almost every passage? |
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I take for grant that you checked for distortion on the block and the head, and they're not warped - yes?
And yes again, never reuse a head gasket either; always install a brand-new gasket.
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Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 01-24-2024).]
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BruhMans06
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JAN 24, 12:34 PM
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Yeah its an iron duke, I never reuse gaskets that are as important as the headgasket, I just need to order a new one. this is just me rushing my work as always again. Ill order new bolts and try again, thankfully the head removal was quick and painless (only took me 1 1/2 hours) so I should be chilling. I have yeat to check for warpage in the head but i kind of doubt it since the engine only has about 90k miles, its probably just a result of my carelessness, but Ill check just in case.
I also had another problem with the bolt holes in the gasket not quite lining up properly, on of them was almost a cm off, im wondering why that is, is there a specific orientation that the gasket needs to be in to match up the bolt holes?
Thanks again![This message has been edited by BruhMans06 (edited 01-24-2024).]
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82-T/A [At Work]
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JAN 24, 01:16 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by BruhMans06:
Yeah its an iron duke, I never reuse gaskets that are as important as the headgasket, I just need to order a new one. this is just me rushing my work as always again. Ill order new bolts and try again, thankfully the head removal was quick and painless (only took me 1 1/2 hours) so I should be chilling. I have yeat to check for warpage in the head but i kind of doubt it since the engine only has about 90k miles, its probably just a result of my carelessness, but Ill check just in case.
I also had another problem with the bolt holes in the gasket not quite lining up properly, on of them was almost a cm off, im wondering why that is, is there a specific orientation that the gasket needs to be in to match up the bolt holes?
Thanks again! |
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There were some variations in the Duke... so make sure you get the right year for your car. Don't skimp... try to get a Felpro head gasket if you can. Only thing I can think of is perhaps the gasket was upside down. The little dowel-pins should align correctly and it shouldn't be off at all. If you have to force it, it's probably not on correctly. Good luck!
Also... just in case... there is a VERY special "burping" procedure for ensuring that you properly get all the air out of the cooling system. It requires you to fill until coolant runs out the radiator cap, and then you run the car and constantly keep topping off the coolant from the thermostat housing in the engine compartment. One thing that just popped into my mind is that you may have cracked your cyl head... and that's why you're getting the milkshake... and NOT because you bolted the cyl head on wrong. Did it run hot?
Sometimes if there's no coolant in the head, the temperature gauge won't even read that it's hot until some of the coolant finally gets to it.
Anyway... make sure you've done the coolant procedure properly... it's a pain in the butt.
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Vintage-Nut
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JAN 24, 01:20 PM
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| quote | BruhMans06:
is there a specific orientation that the gasket needs to be in to match up the bolt holes? |
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Some head gaskets are asymmetric without any directional indicators; other gaskets are 'coded' or 'stamped' as "this side".
I'm clueless on an iron duke head gasket........?
| quote | 82-T/A:
make sure you've done the coolant procedure properly... it's a pain in the butt. |
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My Antifreeze Filling Procedure and other members 'do it' differently:
*On a cold engine; remove the thermostat
*From the Thermostat Housing; pour antifreeze watching the radiator opening, when full, cap the radiator
*Pour more antifreeze to fill the thermostat housing, and then cap it enough to seal
*Check the coolant recovery tank and add if needed
*Run the engine ~30 seconds, shut it off, open the engine cap, add antifreeze and cap it enough to seal
*Run the engine~30 seconds, shut it off, open the cap, install the thermostat, add more antifreeze and cap it tightly
*Run the engine until the radiator hoses are very warm and then cool the engine down
Remember, the radiator has AIR in the system and check the coolant recovery tank if needed to keep the level above the ADD mark.
To me, I run the engine to reach operating temperature and cool it down at least three more cycles before driving the car on a long trip which will ‘burp’ air from the coolant system.[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 01-24-2024).]
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Raydar
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JAN 24, 02:42 PM
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Make sure you've got the correct gasket.
As I recall, one of our folks swapped a higher flow head onto his duke and had to plug and redrill one of the bolt holes. It was off by about the width of a bolt. Or ~1 cm.
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