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| Assistance Needed Installing Rodney Dickman's Floating Cradle Nut (Page 1/1) |
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frockfiero
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FEB 13, 09:42 AM
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I'm currently facing a challenge with a spinning rear cradle bolt on my1987 GT, and after some research, I decided to purchase Rodney Dickman's floating cradle nut solution. While the instructions provided are quite detailed, including the measurements for where to cut, I'm uncertain about a few things and would greatly appreciate some guidance from anyone who has tackled this issue before.
Cutting the Frame: The instructions specify the measurements for the cut, but I'm unsure about the exact location to make this cut. Should I be cutting out the bottom, inner, or outer side of the frame? If anyone has pictures or a more detailed explanation of where to cut, it would be incredibly helpful.
Cradle Removal: Is it necessary to remove the entire cradle to get the bolt out, or is it possible to extract the bolt through the hole I will be cutting? I'm trying to determine the scope of the work and whether I need to prepare for a more extensive disassembly.
Additional Tips: If you have any tips, tricks, or advice on performing this repair, especially with regards to making the cut and handling the floating cradle nut, I would be very grateful. I want to ensure I do this correctly to avoid any further issues.
I've read through the instructions several times, but I want to be absolutely sure I'm approaching this repair correctly. Any advice, especially with photos or detailed descriptions of your own experiences, would be invaluable.
Thank you in advance for your help and support. I look forward to any insights you can provide!
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Vintage-Nut
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FEB 13, 10:35 AM
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I don't know if this thread will help......
Question about Rodney's Rear Frame Floating Cradle Nut Kit by CowsPatoot
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/124805.html------------------
Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles
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gregr75
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FEB 13, 11:18 AM
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If you dont want to cut up holes in your cradle… You can take off the rear bumper and other doo dads in the way so you can have a clear access to the cradle nuts from behind. I can't remember but I'm guesstimating it was about two hours worth of work.
I actually purchasd Rodneys weld in cradle nuts but found the nut flange is big enough to rotate against the inside of the cradle channel, which stopped it from spinning when torquing the bolts up.[This message has been edited by gregr75 (edited 02-13-2024).]
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fierofool
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FEB 13, 01:34 PM
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I used a method similar to that of gregr75, except I didn't remove the rear fascia bug cut a window about 3 or 4 inches wide in the side of the cradle. Cut along the top then down on each end of that cut to create a flap. I bent it down, slid the cradle nut repair inside and as gregr75 said, it was long enough that it wouldn't rotate when tightening down the cradle bolt. No need to weld unless you want to weld up the flap when you bend it back in place. Don't cut into the top or bottom surface of the cradle rail because that can weaken it. Paint or treat the cuts with a rust inhibitor.
The opening in the side of the cradle was centered on the original cradle nut location. These are what I used.
https://rodneydickman.com/p....php?products_id=304[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 02-13-2024).]
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PhatMax
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FEB 16, 06:11 AM
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I drilled a hole just big enough to get the nut thru.
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labbe001
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FEB 16, 10:26 AM
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fieroguru
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FEB 16, 05:52 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by PhatMax:
I drilled a hole just big enough to get the nut thru. |
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Hole saw a round hole right across from the cradle bolt is probably the cleanest no-weld solution.
I normally remove the witch hat nuts and then weld them to a steel bar and reinstall them.
Welding a 12x1.75 nut to a steel bar also works.[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 02-16-2024).]
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