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Hi idle, loud hissing noise under air cleaner (Page 1/3) |
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gregr75
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MAR 08, 07:36 PM
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Good evening everyone,
The engine turns right over and runs after 18 months of inactivity due to cradle, suspension, brake and fuel line replacement, etc.
However, it goes right to about 2200 RPM and there is a very loud hissing noise sounding coming from underneath the air cleaner.
I have everything hooked back up as far as I can see. (The engine did have to come out of the car during restoration.) There are 2 metal air tubes that run together but are unconnected but I believe these go nowhere by design after a recall, correct? The smaller tube terminates underneath the air cleaner on one end (its blocked or clogged at that end- deliberately?) and runs across the front of the engine bay is open at the right end. The larger tube about the width of a finger is about 2 feet long and is open at either end.
Not sure why the hissing noise but it is loud, This photo was taken underneath the car looking up at the two tubes I'm talking about.
------------------ 87 GT Stock 2.8L[This message has been edited by gregr75 (edited 03-08-2024).]
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Vintage-Nut
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MAR 08, 08:37 PM
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Recall: '85-'88 2.8L V6 (RPO L44) GM Campaign 88-C-24 w/ Part Illustrations https://www.fiero.nl/forum/.../HTML/147137.html#p0
In this thread:
This 'metal pipe' was connected to the Engine Crankcase Vent as shown in the photo after the recall procedure.
On the other end of this pipe is an Either/Or: 1st Design was connected with an elbow in the bottom of the original rubber Air Intake Duct near to the Air Cleaner Housing. 2nd Design was connected with a prebend rubber hose to the side of the Air Cleaner Housing.
The recall 'Air Intake Duct Kits' removed the original air intake duct (between air cleaner housing/throttle body) and the crankcase vent tube from the pipe on the right. Then installed a New Air Intake Duct which has a port for the New Engine Crankcase Vent Tube on the throttle body end.
Confirm the type of Air Cleaner Housing that the vehicle has; the recall illustrations in the link below shows both designs as well as the original parts were removed/discarded.
If a 1st Design vehicle has the new recall New Air Intake Duct/Vent Tube; the metal pipe was disconnected from the intake/vacuum system directly below the air intake duct.
If a 2nd Design vehicle has the new recall New Air Intake Duct/Vent Tube; CHECK this 'metal pipe' to verify:
*IF the Air Cleaner Housing Side Port has been Sealed (capped off) OR *IF the prebend rubber hose is connected between the metal pipe AND to the Air Cleaner Housing Port.
IF the Air Cleaner Housing Side Port is connected to the pipe; a rubber cap is needed to seal the end (not 'open' as the photo above) as this tube is still 'LIVE' and can draw unfiltered air to the intake/vacuum system which is a dire condition! ------------------ Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 03-09-2024).]
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Patrick
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MAR 08, 08:37 PM
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quote | Originally posted by gregr75:
The smaller tube terminates underneath the air cleaner on one end (its blocked or clogged at that end- deliberately?) and runs across the front of the engine bay is open at the right end.
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The left side of the smaller tube should be attached to the air filter assembly, and the right side to the EGR solenoid.
quote | Originally posted by gregr75:
The larger tube about the width of a finger is about 2 feet long and is open at either end.
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That's fine... although you better check to make sure that the air filter assembly has been plugged where that tube used to attach to before the recall.
quote | Originally posted by gregr75:
Not sure why the hissing noise but it is loud...
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Keep looking for the source of the noise. With the idle speed you've reported, you've no doubt got a vacuum connection detached somewhere. Could be under the upper intake plenum or behind the TB etc.
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fierogt28
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MAR 08, 09:31 PM
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Patrick is correct on the vacuum leak. You will need to check all vacuum lines. Check also for cracked plastic vacuum lines, or simply disconnected lines. If a loud or noticeable hissing sound and high idle, is signs of a vacuum leak. Also check the EGR tube. There is 2 vacuum lines under the TB. Check there too. The other spot that I have already seen a huge hissing noise, I forgot to connect the tube from the valve cover on the bulkhead / firewall side to the TB air filter to TB rubber tube. Behind like this picture, the tube could be just disconnected. Have a look. Check to while your at it, the 2 TB to air filter tube clamps. But this won’t affect the idle speed. It’s just check for proper seal on the intake tube. Just a flat screwdriver is required to check tightening.
------------------ fierogt28
88 GT, Loaded, 5-speed. 88 GT, 5-speed. Beechwood interior, All original.[This message has been edited by fierogt28 (edited 03-08-2024).]
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1985 Fiero GT
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MAR 08, 10:23 PM
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Have you driven it on the highway yet? If it has been out of commission for a while, the ECM could have been reset, making it forget it's idle position, which would give it a high idle, also I have heard my IAC valve make a loud hissing sound under certain circumstances, specifically when my PCV valve was clogged, and the IAC valve was a bit gummed up with oil, it can be quite loud, and the sound can seem to come from the plastic water box below the air cleaner assembly, as the air cleaner, rubber tube, and other parts before muffle the sound.
Bridge the aldl connector like you would to read codes, turn on key, wait for 30+seconds, and with key still on and ALDL connector still bridged, unplug the IAC valve, that will disconnect it in the closed position, so there is no idle air flowing, then turn key off/unbridge the aldl connector, start the car, if it starts and runs just fine (maybe with a slightly lower high idle), and you still hear the hissing, you definitely have a vacuum leak or a very very plugged up IAC valve. If it is slightly hard to start, and has a very low idle (600rpm) or you need to give it a bit of gas to keep it running, but the hissing is gone, the ECM just didn't have a chance to bring the idle down, and/or your IAC valve is somewhat gunked up, which caused the air going through it to "hiss".
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theogre
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MAR 09, 07:32 AM
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Most Vac leaks often make No noise yet can still have high idle. Many time if have big vac leaks that maybe make noise then engine hard or won't start because way too much air.
High Idle can be vac leaks or completely normal.
Examples: If ECM loses standby power for any reason, yes IAC needs to "reset" & requires Fiero V6 & older L4 to drive over 35mph. Engine Cold, low battery, etc, then ECM can/will force high idle too.
⚠️ Very Low to dead battery can kill the alternator because pulls too many amps. You need to charge or replace a "Dead" battery before starting. "Dumb" SI can simply fry for low battery. "Smarter" CS turn Off for low battery but "jump starting" fake out the alt & turn On when should not.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
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Vintage-Nut
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MAR 09, 10:49 AM
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quote | gregr75: There are 2 metal air tubes that run together but are unconnected but I believe these go nowhere by design after a recall, correct? |
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Incorrect *The larger metal pipe was ‘removed’ from the engine {See Recall Thread Above} CHECK if you have the 1st Design or the 2nd Design in the link *The smaller tube STILL must be connected on both ends {Outside Air to EGR Solenoid Vacuum}
quote | The smaller tube terminates underneath the air cleaner on one end (its blocked or clogged at that end- deliberately?) and runs across the front of the engine bay is open at the right end. |
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Incorrect {Outside Air to EGR Solenoid Vacuum} The smaller tube is connected to Outside Air (before the air filter housing input) and the “open end” goes to the EGR Solenoid Vacuum which feeds two ports: the EGR Valve and to the Throttle Body.
NOTICE on the Larger Metal Pipe w/ 'Open' Ends: 1st Design: the metal pipe was disconnected from the intake/vacuum system and replaced with a different (recall) Air Intake Duct 2nd Design: If both ends of this pipe is 'open' - CHECK the Air Cleaner Housing Side Port has been Sealed (capped off)
quote | However, it goes right to about 2200 RPM and there is a very loud hissing noise sounding coming from underneath the air cleaner. |
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If you hear a vacuum leak underneath the air cleaner; check the air intake/vacuum system for 'open' ports (like the Air Cleaner Housing Side Port) which will draw unfiltered air to the system.[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 03-09-2024).]
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gregr75
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MAR 09, 04:50 PM
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OK thank you everyone for your replies, wow this was a wealth of information, And I appreciate the effort that went into marking up some of these pics.
It looks like I have a second gen regarding the pcv redesign. However, the smaller metal tube thats supposed to connect to egr solenoid on the right side isnt connected, theres just a foot long length of hose dangling from solenoid. I could easily connect the tube and hose there but I have heard of other people just letting that solenoid hose dangle there because it's just ambient air right? This shouldn't affect EGR operation?
On the left side, where the small metal tube goes into air cleaner (see pic) The tube is blocked with something hard. Previous owner did a crude EGR delete, and I'm wondering if he deliberately blocked this tube.
I also performed the IAC reset procedure via ALDL for 20 seconds. heard some strange buzzing noises which didn't sound normal. I then cleaned the throttlebody and IAC porthole before the butterfly valve. Lastly, I install the air filter and cap and snorkel put everything together, fired up the engine and I now have 1000 RPM but very lumpy and almost stalling. Absolutely no idea why the loud hissing is gone, but I am very pleased with this and no more high idle.
I removed the IAC valve, and did a reset procedure again, really out of curiousity to see how it works and the spring and pintle went flying out but I was able to locate both parts.
Sorry for the long post but my questions are
1) Do I need to unclog the metal tube where it enters the air cleaner on the left side (see pic)and hook the EGR solenoid hose on the right side? Will this really affect solenoid operation versus just having a foot long hose hang off the solenoid like it is right now? It seems it wouldn't really matter because it's ambient air.
2) I screwed in the pintle of the IAC valve as far as I could go, now the slots in the pintle are lining up with the plastic guides in the valve body. is this how i should reinstall it? fully screwed in?
------------------ 87 GT Stock 2.8L
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Patrick
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MAR 09, 05:39 PM
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quote | Originally posted by gregr75:
Do I need to unclog the metal tube where it enters the air cleaner on the left side (see pic)and hook the EGR solenoid hose on the right side? Will this really affect solenoid operation versus just having a foot long hose hang off the solenoid like it is right now? It seems it wouldn't really matter because it's ambient air.
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It probably makes little difference, do whatever you feel comfortable with. Do it like Pontiac intended, or have the hose just hanging off the end of the EGR solenoid. Your choice.
quote | Originally posted by gregr75:
On the left side, where the small metal tube goes into air cleaner (see pic) The tube is blocked with something hard. Previous owner did a crude EGR delete, and I'm wondering if he deliberately blocked this tube.
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As I stated in the 2nd response in this thread, if the larger tube is open at both ends, make sure the hole in the air filter canister is plugged. The larger tube originally connected to the filtered side, whereas the smaller tube connects to the unfiltered side. The smaller tube being plugged at the air filter assembly makes no sense whatsoever.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-09-2024).]
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1985 Fiero GT
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MAR 09, 05:39 PM
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quote | Originally posted by gregr75:
OK thank you everyone for your replies, wow this was a wealth of information, And I appreciate the effort that went into marking up some of these pics.
It looks like I have a second gen regarding the pcv redesign. However, the smaller metal tube thats supposed to connect to egr solenoid on the right side isnt connected, theres just a foot long length of hose dangling from solenoid. I could easily connect the tube and hose there but I have heard of other people just letting that solenoid hose dangle there because it's just ambient air right? This shouldn't affect EGR operation?
On the left side, where the small metal tube goes into air cleaner (see pic) The tube is blocked with something hard. Previous owner did a crude EGR delete, and I'm wondering if he deliberately blocked this tube.
I also performed the IAC reset procedure via ALDL for 20 seconds. heard some strange buzzing noises which didn't sound normal. I then cleaned the throttlebody and IAC porthole before the butterfly valve. Lastly, I install the air filter and cap and snorkel put everything together, fired up the engine and I now have 1000 RPM but very lumpy and almost stalling. Absolutely no idea why the loud hissing is gone, but I am very pleased with this and no more high idle.
I removed the IAC valve, and did a reset procedure again, really out of curiousity to see how it works and the spring and pintle went flying out but I was able to locate both parts.
Sorry for the long post but my questions are
1) Do I need to unclog the metal tube where it enters the air cleaner on the left side (see pic)and hook the EGR solenoid hose on the right side? Will this really affect solenoid operation versus just having a foot long hose hang off the solenoid like it is right now? It seems it wouldn't really matter because it's ambient air.
2) I screwed in the pintle of the IAC valve as far as I could go, now the slots in the pintle are lining up with the plastic guides in the valve body. is this how i should reinstall it? fully screwed in?
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Ok, I'm not sure on the EGR connection, someone more knowledgeable will tell you what to do with that, as for the IAC test you did, sounds like exactly what I thought, at certain positions the air rushing past the IAC will make that hissing sound and since the ECM had been reset, it forced a high idle, which happened to be a position that made the IAC hiss. When reconnecting everything and driving above 35mph, the ECM will learn the idle again, and it should idle at 1000, no hissing, should be good. The reason the idle went to 1000 and was lumpy, with no hissing when the IAC was disconnected, is the ECM then can't control the idle, and it is somewhat lumpy because of that, the hissing was gone because no air was going through the IAC valve to make it hiss, the sound the IAC valve made was normal, if the IAC valve was reassembled and still works, you should be good, no problems other then the EGR ambient air tube, just drive it, and the idle should go down and since you cleaned the throttle body, the hissing should be reduced or gone.
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