front lower Ball Joints (Page 1/2)
itzikbns MAR 12, 10:22 AM
Hi there,
I have ordered a new front lower Ball Joints, I press fit them to the lower control arms, but when I tight the castle nut (should be max 140 NM) it went way down below the hole for the split pin, since I am a cool guy I immediately panicked and ordered a new set from RockAuto... but now I have two issues, it's not a press fit to the L.C.A, only secured with a c clip ring, and still same issue with the castle nut, where I tight it down to the pin hole level, nearly with no tightening force and secured the castle nut with a split pin, is it OK?
Frenchrafe MAR 12, 02:38 PM
The ball joints should be press fitted. They have a serrated part that "bites" into the control arm logement.
The c-ring/clip is just for extra security. The joint must be press fitted otherwise they are not the right ones.
For the castle nut, I have noticed that the "cheaper" ball joints have "shallower" nuts (less tall).
I just reused my original nuts which lined up fine with the split pin hole.

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itzikbns MAR 12, 03:23 PM
Thanks, I sent a mail to Rockauto to understand, it should be press fit and I don't understand how this could be... thanks for the tip regarding the original nut, I will try, did you manage to actually torque the castle nut to spec w/o lowering the nut too much?
Patrick MAR 12, 03:56 PM

quote
Originally posted by itzikbns:

I have ordered a new front lower Ball Joints, I press fit them to the lower control arms, but when I tight the castle nut (should be max 140 NM) it went way down below the hole for the split pin...



I don't understand why you'd be having an issue with the castle nut going down too far, but assuming there's nothing wrong somewhere (ball joint, nut, knuckle?), couldn't you just use an appropriate thickness washer to bring the castle nut up high enough for the cotter pin to engage the nut?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-12-2024).]

pmbrunelle MAR 12, 05:45 PM
You do not have to torque the castellated nut to 140 Nm. You can torque the castellated nut up to to 140 Nm if needed to align a castellated nut slot with the cross-hole in the stud. The nut still needs to be reasonably tight though.


quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
couldn't you just use an appropriate thickness washer to bring the castle nut up high enough for the cotter pin to engage the nut?



Yes, that is a good idea, but seeing as this is a critical spot, I think a good quality (hard metal, and parallel flat faces) washer should be used, such as ARP.

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 03-12-2024).]

itzikbns MAR 13, 12:15 AM
Thanks all,
I used a washer at the first assembly, it looked better but I wasn't comfortable with it...I will use a proper washer, but apparently I have bigger issue, I tried placing the previous BJ to the hole in the LCA and they all (3 sets, including the original) are now entering the hole in the LCA w/o press, it looks like pressing the new BJ extended the holes in the LCA, it did took like 6 tons of press to press the BJ to place, now I would probably need to buy new LCAs...unless there is a better idea
Patrick MAR 13, 12:42 AM

quote
Originally posted by itzikbns:

...now I would probably need to buy new LCAs...unless there is a better idea



If the ball joint is loose in the LCA, I believe you can tack-weld them in place.
itzikbns MAR 13, 12:53 AM
thanks, I will
pmbrunelle MAR 13, 05:40 PM
How much bigger are the original ball joints compared to the new ball joints? I'm wondering how much smaller the hole would need to be.

Tack welding alone is probably a bad idea; the press-fit is the usual retention, with tack welding sometimes added as a backup.

You might be able to weld a bead around the press-fit area of the LCA. When the hot weld bead shrinks, the diameter of the hole should be reduced. I don't know if the diameter reduction will be enough for you.

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If you find a solution to the castle nut problem, then you should be able to use the newer larger ball joints in the enlarged holes of your LCAs?
Patrick MAR 13, 06:01 PM

quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

Tack welding alone is probably a bad idea; the press-fit is the usual retention, with tack welding sometimes added as a backup.



I'm definitely not an expert on this... but I've been led to believe from what I've read here over the years, that due to the way the ball joints, knuckles and LCAs all work together, that the lower ball joints are actually being pulled into the LCAs through associated forces, not pushed out. So, in other words, as long as the ball joints are relatively secured in place (and can't be pulled through the hole), there shouldn't be any problem. Am I wrong?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-13-2024).]