Want a slight nose down stance on my 88 GT, how to do it? (Page 1/1)
phils88GT MAR 12, 10:25 PM
I just got done with a rebuild of most of my 88 GT's suspension. I gotta say, it rides SO much better as all of the struts were utterly shot.

I love my Fiero, but the only thing I don't like about the factory look is the slight upturn of the aero nose. I have seen some pics of a piece that wraps around the bottom of the nose, almost like a chin spoiler that kinda give the effect of the front being lower. I would love to find this, but, in the mean time, is there anything I can do to the front end to lower it slightly, like 1/2 to 3/4" to give the car a slight nose-down stance. She sits completely level right now. I don't mind the height, it's just the front. I guess I could cut on the factory front springs, but I don't want a bone jarring ricer type ride and crap front camber issues.

Ideas?
Patrick MAR 12, 10:33 PM

A couple of minutes using the Search function here ... would've probably turned up This.
phils88GT MAR 12, 10:51 PM
Thanks Patrick. This is a great idea. The only thing that sucks is that I just replaced the front lowers with standard balljoints from Rodney.

I guess it would still be cheaper that using lowering springs!
fieroguru MAR 13, 05:56 AM
The lowering ball joints are great, unless you have an 88 and want to do a larger rotor brake upgrade in the future, then they become an interference issue.

You can trim 1/2 coil off the front springs and drop it slightly, while also trimming about 1/2" off the front bump stop. This will drop the front slightly, front spring rate might increase about 5%, and with the trimmed bump stop retain stock levels of suspension travel.

I cover a lot of the details about lowering the front of an 88 on this page of my website:
https://fieroguruperformance.com/?page_id=1157
olejoedad MAR 13, 12:24 PM
Guru's advice is spot on. A cut of 1/2 of a coil will lower the nose, and not cost anything.

My son's Formula has cut springs front and rear and the ride quality is just fine and the stance is perfect.
Raydar MAR 13, 02:48 PM
All of my cars (88s) have cut springs in the front. This one is cut by one coil.
I have poly everywhere except the trailing links. It still rides fine. Monroe shocks and struts.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 03-13-2024).]

Patrick MAR 13, 02:48 PM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

Guru's advice is spot on. A cut of 1/2 of a coil will lower the nose, and not cost anything.



Completely agree on cutting the front springs (and trimming the bump stops), as that's what I've done on my Formula. I only mentioned the lowering ball joints as the OP seemed dead set against cutting springs.


quote
Originally posted by phils88GT:

I guess I could cut on the factory front springs, but I don't want a bone jarring ricer type ride and crap front camber issues.
phils88GT MAR 13, 02:53 PM
I wouldn't say I was dead against it, but you really never know how the ride will be if you cut coil springs. I just know that I see many cars that are lowered, well, slammed actually and the ride has to be unbearable, very bouncy, stiff. I have done it to a couple of Mustangs in the past, and S197 and an New Edge, and it turned out great on both.

I will do the coil springs and see how it turns out.

Thanks everyone!
pmbrunelle MAR 13, 05:42 PM

quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:
The lowering ball joints are great



They seem like a bad idea to me, as (with the lowering ball joint) the forces are applied a distance away from the press-fit area, so now the forces have a moment about the press-fit area, so more potential for loosening?
fieroguru MAR 13, 06:55 PM

quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
They seem like a bad idea to me, as (with the lowering ball joint) the forces are applied a distance away from the press-fit area, so now the forces have a moment about the press-fit area, so more potential for loosening?



I don't disagree that extending the ball joint base will create or increase the moment applied to the press fit area, but does this increase moment pass the threshold of being significant? I think it really depends on intended use and the loads it will see.

The last set I installed I added about 3/4" length of weld bead (not tacks) along the front and rear of each ball joint to better resist any additional moment from braking or road bumps. If this car was planned for autocrossing or track use, I would have put 4 of the weld beads to cover front/back and both sides. The weld beads will keep the press fit from loosening, so then the additional moment will load the nose of the lower a-arm to the rest of the a-arm.