Valve cover leak (Page 1/1)
Garrett5982 MAR 25, 06:47 AM
Hey guys, I noticed that my '85 GT has a small bit of oil seepage on the valve cover. i was mostly wondering if it's something i should be immediately concerned about or if it's fine to prioritize other repairs first.
82-T/A [At Work] MAR 25, 08:03 AM

quote
Originally posted by Garrett5982:

Hey guys, I noticed that my '85 GT has a small bit of oil seepage on the valve cover. i was mostly wondering if it's something i should be immediately concerned about or if it's fine to prioritize other repairs first.




A leaking valve cover isn't an end of the world kind of thing by any means. The only problem though is that it gets oil everywhere, and makes any future work you're going to be doing extremely messy. It's an inexpensive gasket, so I'd change it sooner than later if it were me. But if your engine has never been cleaned, and it likely already has caked on oil, then I'd probably not be too concerned about it (right now).
Patrick MAR 25, 04:48 PM

When you replace the valve cover gaskets, don't use the cork ones... use the rubberized ones. And as an aside, the middle intake plenum need not be removed.
Garrett5982 MAR 25, 08:36 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


When you replace the valve cover gaskets, don't use the cork ones... use the rubberized ones. And as an aside, the middle intake plenum need not be removed.




Sweet thanks for the info. is there anything specific i should look at while i have it apart? i've never opened this engine up before
Patrick MAR 26, 01:20 AM

quote
Originally posted by Garrett5982:

is there anything specific i should look at while i have it apart? i've never opened this engine up before.



Well, the engine really isn't "opened up" all that much during this process. It is a convenient time though to make your valve covers and upper intake all purdy while they're off the engine, either by cleaning them thoroughly and/or re-painting them (depending on how bad they are). Just be careful with the vacuum lines as they can very easily be broken.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-26-2024).]

theogre MAR 26, 10:18 AM
Small leak there can make smoke to cause a fire when get on exhaust parts. Not something to ignore for long term.

Gaskets... Check if felpro has Permadry etc for the engine.
May, often does, cost more but works better. Example: Felpro L4 cover casket w/ metal frame silicon gasket includes new longer bolts & load spreaders to seal "weal" steel covers & cost a lot more but way worth the $ to never leak again.

Follow directions, Many gaskets of all types Install Dry or can use Permatex High Tac to hold in place. Problem is many add RTV etc to them then blame the gasket for problems.
RTV is only seal sections w/ seems like many oil pan sets. Or replace gaskets entirely following several rules.

Then Do Not over torque or will smash them & cause leaks right then or sooner not latter & why many "hate" the cork gaskets. Cork types are way easier for that because most people crush them @ install.

Clean the parts & parts & holes to get oil off/out then "torque by hand" using nut driver or ratchet held @ head. Hole(s) likely will still have enough oil in them making torque table useless. Even still, Clean parts + "springy" gasket will keep the bolts tight on most engines.
If some bolts still back out, I use plumbing Teflon tape as thread locker w/o problems using Loctite on small bolts. I use this on AT Pan bolts because steel bolts in aluminum that get loose or worse "rust welded" because some holes on some units go thru the case & get salt etc on back side.
(Permatex does make loctite for small screws but won't stop "welded" problems as just said.)

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Vintage-Nut MAR 26, 11:22 AM

quote
Patrick:
Just be careful with the vacuum lines as they can very easily be broken.



Yes, the original flexible plastic vacuum lines under the plenum can get 'brittle' from age and/or heat.


This is the perfect time to check them and both Rodney Dickman and The Fiero Store offers V6 Vacuum Line Replacements:

Rodney's V6 Stainless Steel Vacuum Lines
https://rodneydickman.com/p...o.php?products_id=86

TFS Black Powder Coat Finish V6 Vacuum Line Set
https://www.fierostore.com/.../Detail.aspx?s=52389

However, these rigid steel lines have no "give" and are much harder when disassembling or aligning them when installing, especially the bigger tubes.

I made a 'Hybrid' set:
I cut the original plastic 'ends' with their rubber boots; then
Reduce/cut Rodney's V6 Stainless Steel Vacuum Lines, and
Connected and sealed the plastic and steel tubes with rubber vacuum hose which I.D. was slightly smaller than the plastic/steel O.D.
My Hybrid set has enough flexibility so I can replace my PVC valve easily....

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Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles