coolant under pressure.2.5 engine (Page 1/1)
richard in nc JUN 06, 04:05 PM
im constantly having to add more coolant but if i fill up the coolant at the rear,drive it a bit and then let it sit a week,when i try to check it again at the rear it sprays out when i remove the thermostat cover.it does this often.i removed the thermostat last time because it was running hot.surely after a week the pressure should have leaked out.
Patrick JUN 06, 04:10 PM
Does the coolant level in the reservoir go up as the engine reaches operating temperature, and then down as the engine cools off? If not, there's a problem with the rad cap and/or reservoir.

And make sure you have the proper non-vented radiator cap installed.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-06-2024).]

richard in nc JUN 07, 10:49 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Does the coolant level in the reservoir go up as the engine reaches operating temperature, and then down as the engine cools off? If not, there's a problem with the rad cap and/or reservoir.

And make sure you have the proper non-vented radiator cap installed.




im using the cap that came with the champion radiator.
theogre JUN 07, 01:05 PM
see https://web.archive.org/web...erocave/coolcaps.htm & rest of section.

the system can have some pressure when cold...
Depending on weather & more & non-vented rad caps, system can see more or less pressure as weather changes and good system keeps the T-stat tube fill to the top & normal to lose some coolant if you open that first.

Again Good Coolant system on most models w/ "over flow" tanks have No "Air" at all inside them.

Even If the rubber hoses are very easy to squeeze you can loose some coolant opening T-stat cover first.

Release all pressure using Rad Cap back off to first "notch" can still loose some coolant at either port. Fiero & some other cross flow radiators have some tubes above lowest point of fill port so often you loose some coolant remove that cap. If careful & open the rad cap slowly, much of high area drain to the over flow tank. Then close that then open the back to prevent spillage there.

The system will have air but quickly "Self burp" after a heat cycle or three.

If this happens "all the time..."
Example: You open the system cold, likely loose some coolant, reseal, run the engine for seconds & see full pressure or even "boil over" fast... Maybe have problem w/ head gasket etc forcing fumes in the coolant system. That behaves as keeps getting "air" in the coolant system.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Patrick JUN 07, 04:39 PM

quote
Originally posted by richard in nc:

im using the cap that came with the champion radiator.



Well, that tells us nothing... and doesn't address my question at all.


quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Does the coolant level in the reservoir go up as the engine reaches operating temperature, and then down as the engine cools off? If not, there's a problem with the rad cap and/or reservoir.

And make sure you have the proper non-vented radiator cap installed.



theogre JUN 07, 04:59 PM
Also see
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/145505.html Coolant Pressure Testing for Fiero.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/146198.html Hidden Fuel and Coolant Leaks.

As top post has coolant leaks somewhere w/ engine hot @ minimum.

If buying a test kit, amazon etc maybe have 1 or more that direct fit to the T-stat tube.
see https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/147652.html
Patrick JUN 07, 05:04 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

As top post has coolant leaks somewhere w/ engine hot @ minimum.



It could be something as simple as a leaky hose between the radiator and the reservoir... which the OP could help determine by answering my very basic question posted above.
richard in nc JUN 08, 10:02 AM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:
Release all pressure using Rad Cap back off to first "notch" can still loose some coolant at either port. Fiero & some other cross flow radiators have some tubes above lowest point of fill port so often you loose some coolant remove that cap. If careful & open the rad cap slowly, much of high area drain to the over flow tank. Then close that then open the back to prevent spillage there.





i'll try this.patrick,i assumed a champion radiator designed for a fiero would have the correct fiero type cap.i spent yesterday changing out the oil temp sender that was pouring oil.does the fiero radiator cap fit the champion radiator?

[This message has been edited by richard in nc (edited 06-08-2024).]

theogre JUN 09, 12:04 AM
1. Just read the cave page to see if one you have is non vent cap. Very likely is.
2. Look at the cap label etc. Often say what pressure like 16psi or part number etc.
Example: Motorad & store brands etc made by them often have 16 or 16 w/ a letter stamped on the rivet.

You want a 15/16psi rad cap. The entire system want that. Some aftermarket rads come w/ 20psi cap... while "safe" puts more stress on everything w/o good reason.

Many older GM Ford & Many aftermarket too all use Stant xx230 or XX231 depending on system setup & "knockoffs" made by others but ask champion if needed.

Stant/Motorad Pressure testers like ST270 have Cap Test adapter included because this format was so common.

Note: Even Vented Rad Caps can keep pressure but w/o the small spring in the cap, often "fall down" & stays down w/o coolant flow etc next time you run the engine "pushing it up" so rarely to you have pressure w/ engine cold unless OV tank/hose has problems.
richard in nc JUN 10, 12:41 PM
i had time to look at it today.i checked the overflow tank which was at the full line.i only fill to the middle so that wasn't me.i turned the radiator cap to the vent position.some pressure went into the overflow.so i removed the cap.i couldn't see any fluid.so i remove the thermostat cover.it sprays again.this is with the car sitting for a day.i thought with no thermostat and the radiator cap off there wouldn't be any pressure.at that time fluid pours out of the radiator.i quickly put the radiator cap back on noticing the radiator was full.i then reinstalled the thermostat and filled up that end.i replaced the cap.so im thinking the system should be full of water.i drive it around the neighborhood a few times.it would go up to 240 then drop down to 160 and back.so i took it to the store and back.it got into the 260 range and the hot light came on[in about ten seconds]so i turned on the fan[non working ac].i popped the front hood and the coolant tank was spraying water.this may be because it started at full.i guess i will remove the thermostat,refill and try again.