Re:Horn don’t blow (Page 1/2)
TheDigitalAlchemist SEP 01, 10:50 PM
So I’m in the right lane at a light. Woman is In the left. Normally, the left lane will either turn left or merge with the right lane (and the right lane will either go straight and merge or turn right)

This person goes from the left lane and makes a RIGHT.

Luckily, I was not “on” the gas- I was expecting her to go forward , but she makes an almost 90 degree right turn.

I hit the horn and… nada.

It was working perfectly when I brought it in for service.

Other than the fuse, what can I check to test the horn?

Thanks in advance.

86 SE.

xoxo
Patrick SEP 01, 11:42 PM
I assume you've pressed the horn a few more times since then... and it still won't honk?

If the fuse is good, then I suppose the next step would be removing the cover for the horn on the steering wheel to access the electrical bits... to make sure there's actually an electrical connection taking place.

In my experience, a horn doesn't usually wear out. Maybe make sure there's a good corrosion-free power connection to the horn itself.

If after all this the horn still isn't working, remove it and connect it directly to the battery to test it. If it still doesn't work, buy one of these.


[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-02-2024).]

Mike in Sydney SEP 02, 06:20 AM
Do you have the stock SE steering wheel with the twin horn buttons on either side of the centre pad? On my SE, the left button didn’t always make contact. The small bump on the underside of the button wore down so when pressed it wouldn’t make contact when pressed. I cut a couple of strips of thin plastic shim stock and placed them between the switch button and the contact to increase the pressure when the button is pushed. Be careful because the horn buttons of the SE steering wheel are prone to breaking.
Vintage-Nut SEP 02, 09:39 AM
First, check the horn relay in the passenger side footwell where the blue 'dingy thingy' plugs in on the convenience center.

quote
firejo24:
At the relay, test for power on the orange wire. With the horn button pushed there should be ground on the black wire. If there is power on the orange wire, jumper it to the dark green wire (use a fuse). The horn should honk. If it does, and you have power on the orange wire, and you have a ground on the black wire when the horn button is pushed, the relay is bad. If any of these test fail, start tracking down a bad connection.


OR simply connect the horn relay COIL tabs on the battery with leads and HEAR for the 'click' {no 'click' means it isn't connected or the coil is 'bad'}
If you heard the 'click'; check the other tabs on the relay {with the battery/coil connected} with a multimeter on resistance {ohms / Ω} to check the 'horn' connectors are working.

If the relay is 'good', then check the paddle horn buttons.....
https://fierocave.shorturl.com/horn.htm


quote
Button Grounding
(This may apply to other horn buttons besides the paddle style ones.)

If one button or the other won't work, you might have a ground problem and not a bad button. The paddle buttons are grounded only thru the mounting screws. In many cars, the screws have an anti rust coating. This coating is known to keep the screws from making good electrical connection. If you have hard to find horn problems, check these screws. Either replace them with bare ones, or scrape the coating from the bottom of the head and along the threads. You don't have to get them completely bare.



------------------
Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles

[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 09-02-2024).]

Vintage-Nut SEP 03, 05:22 PM
No comment about the "horn don't blow" thread and now "BAT FUSE(8) keeps blowin'?"

------------------
Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles

TheDigitalAlchemist SEP 03, 05:41 PM
Ugh, I forgot I posted this one. I had wanted to troubleshoot it more before I posted.

My brain’s not been fantastic lately.


Thanks for the replies. There’s a short somewhere(as mentioned in the other post)
Dennis LaGrua SEP 03, 09:47 PM
The horn sits in a hostile environment and we've seen several that clog up with dirt and no longer work. It could be the relay but I'll guess that its a problem with the 35 yr old horn. The good news is that replacement horns are inexpensive and easy to replace.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

ArthurPeale SEP 04, 02:22 PM
My horn didn't work. Turned out to be the low note horn had shorted internally. As soon as I disconnected it the high note horn was SO loud. Made me jump.

There are so many parts to the horn system, you'll have to test each system individually until you figure out which is the problem(s)
TheDigitalAlchemist SEP 04, 02:32 PM
Appreciate the replies. I'll hopefully have some time to check this out over the weekend.
TheDigitalAlchemist SEP 15, 10:19 PM
Think the issue was the cigarette lighter itself. we removed the socket and cleaned it up, and put it back. Put a plastic "blank" in there to keep stuff outta there. Thanks guys.