Supposed new clutch from March 2023 with 4k miles slipping badly... What gives? (Page 1/2)
phils88GT SEP 11, 10:16 PM
So I have posted on here before about this. My 88 GT just had a clutch kit installed last year in March by a shop in Tennessee, while the car was owned by the previous owner.

They installed basically an OEM clutch kit, and supposedly bled the system / resurfaced the flywheel. However, now, when I driver her down the road, starting in 3rd gear, and moderate acceleration will cause the clutch to slip. Forget and kind of moderate throttle in 4th and 5th as it will almost immediately start to slip.

I just cannot figure this out! Unless the clutch is just absolute garbage (the kit was $200, charged by the garage that installed it), I just don't understand! Weird thing is, I have driven it a few times where it would not slip at all, but this was the exception to the rule. The next day, it would be back to slipping yet again.

I did take a video of the slave cylinder in action, and it is indeed moving the clutch fork in and out, probably about an inch or so out when I push in the clutch. It also returns properly. I can reach down and actually pull back on the fork and further collapse the slave cylinder. Not sure if this is normal or not.

So, do you think the clutch is just wasted and I need to get another one to install, or should I continue to check the system? The kit installed was a Felton's clutch kit. Never heard of it.

Any suggestions on a good replacement that won't break the bank? I don't intend to driver her hard. I would like to upgrade the engine to either the 3.4L or the DOHC 3.4L later on, so a clutch that will work with those engines as well would be nice, if possible.

Thanks for the help!
Patrick SEP 11, 10:47 PM

Any evidence of an oil leak in the rear seal area?


quote
Originally posted by Patrick Here:

The LUK Clutch Kit (04088) that I used for my 5-spd Formula...



I installed the above clutch more than ten years ago. Cost about $70 at the time from RockAuto. I autocrossed the Formula for years, drove it hard on the track, and the car remains a daily-driver to this day. The clutch continues to work basically as good as new.

I suspect that either the clutch that was installed in your '88 GT was crap, or they didn't actually resurface the flywheel, or maybe the clutch was never broken in properly.

Or... I wonder if it's possible they installed a clutch meant for a duke?
Dennis LaGrua SEP 12, 12:10 AM
Low cost Chinese junk clutch is my guess. Quality of parts coming from that country is all over the place. Sometimes its very good while other times its very bad..

------------------
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jelly2m8 SEP 12, 02:24 AM
Starting off in 3rd gear will fry any clutch in any car faster then.... well lets keep it PG....
1st and 2nd gear are there for a reason.

Yep your clutch is now fried and needs replacement.

Secondly, you cannot believe what the previous owner says, most will preach to sell their car.

people sells cars for a reason. 99% of the time, they don't want to put money into them.

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 09-12-2024).]

phils88GT SEP 12, 10:01 AM

quote
Originally posted by jelly2m8:

Starting off in 3rd gear will fry any clutch in any car faster then.... well lets keep it PG....
1st and 2nd gear are there for a reason.

Yep your clutch is now fried and needs replacement.

Secondly, you cannot believe what the previous owner says, most will preach to sell their car.

people sells cars for a reason. 99% of the time, they don't want to put money into them.




When I say “starting in third”, I mean the issue starts happening more apparently in third. I would never try to start out from a stop on third. 👍
fierofool SEP 12, 10:01 AM
By the part number, try to find out what clutch kit they installed. It might be that they installed the smaller diameter kit from a 4-cylinder. Slave cylinders won't make a clutch slip. They will cause disengagement problems but not slippage problems. They could have just installed the disk and pressure plate and retained the original throwout bearing, or even just replaced the disk. It's always a subject for debate but it's widely held by some that resurfacing the flywheel requires adding shims between the crankshaft and flywheel in the same thickness as the amount of material lost in resurfacing.
Matthew_Fiero SEP 12, 10:36 AM

quote
Originally posted by phils88GT:

So I have posted on here before about this. My 88 GT just had a clutch kit installed last year in March by a shop in Tennessee, while the car was owned by the previous owner.

They installed basically an OEM clutch kit, and supposedly bled the system / resurfaced the flywheel. However, now, when I driver her down the road, starting in 3rd gear, and moderate acceleration will cause the clutch to slip. Forget and kind of moderate throttle in 4th and 5th as it will almost immediately start to slip.

I just cannot figure this out! Unless the clutch is just absolute garbage (the kit was $200, charged by the garage that installed it), I just don't understand! Weird thing is, I have driven it a few times where it would not slip at all, but this was the exception to the rule. The next day, it would be back to slipping yet again.

I did take a video of the slave cylinder in action, and it is indeed moving the clutch fork in and out, probably about an inch or so out when I push in the clutch. It also returns properly. I can reach down and actually pull back on the fork and further collapse the slave cylinder. Not sure if this is normal or not.

So, do you think the clutch is just wasted and I need to get another one to install, or should I continue to check the system? The kit installed was a Felton's clutch kit. Never heard of it.

Any suggestions on a good replacement that won't break the bank? I don't intend to driver her hard. I would like to upgrade the engine to either the 3.4L or the DOHC 3.4L later on, so a clutch that will work with those engines as well would be nice, if possible.

Thanks for the help!



You should be able to squeeze the slave cyl when the clutch is not engaged and it should be rock solid when the clutch is engaged. See if you can get someone to hold the clutch for you or a broom stick handle (protect the seat). If you are able to move it there is likely air in the system. I don't think hydraulics are your issue here though.
fierosound SEP 12, 11:07 AM

quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

Slave cylinders won't make a clutch slip. They will cause disengagement problems but not slippage problems. They could have just installed the disk and pressure plate and retained the original throwout bearing, or even just replaced the disk. It's always a subject for debate but it's widely held by some that resurfacing the flywheel requires adding shims between the crankshaft and flywheel in the same thickness as the amount of material lost in resurfacing.



Check out the hydraulic system thoroughly.
I had a problem where the Master Cylinder or slave was not backing off and the clutch would slip.
It was intermittent. Sometimes good, sometimes clutch was slipping.

Problem went away after replacing Master cylinder (internal check valve?).
At least they can be changed without dropping the cradle.

------------------
My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-12-2024).]

1985 Fiero GT SEP 12, 11:35 AM

quote
Originally posted by phils88GT:

Supposed new clutch from March 2023 with 4k miles slipping badly... What gives?




Clearly the clutch is giving!

Sorry, couldn't resist haha.

I doubt anything hydraulic, perhaps it's the wrong clutch for the 4 cyl, could be an oil leak onto the clutch (that can be more intermittent, depending on oil level, temperature, dirt in the area, etc.) could just be a cheap clutch. Go back to the installer and see what they think, should be warrantied for more than 4000 miles, they can figure it our from there probably.
phils88GT SEP 12, 12:12 PM

quote
Originally posted by Matthew_Fiero:


You should be able to squeeze the slave cyl when the clutch is not engaged and it should be rock solid when the clutch is engaged. See if you can get someone to hold the clutch for you or a broom stick handle (protect the seat). If you are able to move it there is likely air in the system. I don't think hydraulics are your issue here though.



When you say engaged, do you mean with the clutch pedal depressed or engaged as in in gear and clutch pedal released?