Engine running too hot, hard start when warm. (Page 1/1)
Cliff Pennock OCT 12, 07:02 AM
I'm pretty sure these two are related so I put them in one thread.

I got my car back rom the garage today and on the way home, I noticed the engine got hot really, really quick but stabilized at around 230°. It was scrubbing against the red but never got into the red. Even when I did some hard driving for a while, it never got any hotter than that.

I also noticed that it took 1-2 seconds for the car to start when the engine is hot. But only when hot. When the engine is cod, it starts immediately.

Now one of the things they did in the garage, was replace the harmonic balancer (dampener). It had wrong timing marks so I'm unsure how they figured out the correct timing. When I told them about the engine getting hot, they said they probably have to retard the timing a bit.

So, is the high temperature indeed a result of wrong timing? And is the hard starting when hot related?
82-T/A [At Work] OCT 12, 07:59 AM

quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

I'm pretty sure these two are related so I put them in one thread.

I got my car back rom the garage today and on the way home, I noticed the engine got hot really, really quick but stabilized at around 230°. It was scrubbing against the red but never got into the red. Even when I did some hard driving for a while, it never got any hotter than that.

I also noticed that it took 1-2 seconds for the car to start when the engine is hot. But only when hot. When the engine is cod, it starts immediately.

Now one of the things they did in the garage, was replace the harmonic balancer (dampener). It had wrong timing marks so I'm unsure how they figured out the correct timing. When I told them about the engine getting hot, they said they probably have to retard the timing a bit.

So, is the high temperature indeed a result of wrong timing? And is the hard starting when hot related?




Only other thing I would check... is the coolant level. I'm sure they did it right, but double check that the cooling system doesn't need to be burped. It's not so much an issue, but a process on the Fiero. It's one of those things that after filling it up, you need to keep checking to top-off the cooling system (from the engine side where the thermostat goes) as it expels air to the highest point, which is the engine.

EDIT: For the "hard to start when warm" thing... that is usually an issue with the older starters as they begin to fail. I know it's yet again one more thing... but if you decide to replace the starter, go with one of the smaller units from the mid 90s / early 2000s cars. These starters work so much better, weigh like 10 pounds less, and don't have the "heat soak" issue.

[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 10-12-2024).]

Dennis LaGrua OCT 12, 10:18 AM
If your Fiero gets that hot quickly, it is a sure sign that something isn't right. That should not happen especially in a cooler climate in the Netherlands. Since the 2.8L harmonic balancers may be hard to find in your locale, you will need to find TDC and mark it on the new balancer for a correct timing reference. There is a process for doing this by checking compression and using a dial indicator to locate the piston at exact TDC.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Patrick OCT 12, 12:43 PM

quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

I got my car back rom the garage today and on the way home, I noticed the engine got hot really, really quick but stabilized at around 230°. It was scrubbing against the red but never got into the red.



Check those coolant pipes!


quote
Originally posted by Kitskaboodle Here:

Just a reminder Cliff that since your car was recently jacked up on / near the coolant tube’s, do not forget to have your mechanic check out both sides (the whole length) and check for collapsed/crushed tubes while he’s got it up on the lift. He’s got a lot of patchwork to do and we don’t want him to forget to address it.


Dennis LaGrua OCT 12, 01:06 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Check those coolant pipes!

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Kitskaboodle Here:

Just a reminder Cliff that since your car was recently jacked up on / near the coolant tube’s, do not forget to have your mechanic check out both sides (the whole length) and check for collapsed/crushed tubes while he’s got it up on the lift. He’s got a lot of patchwork to do and we don’t want him to forget to address it.


[/QUOTE]

A VERY GOOD point. Crushed pipes from improper lifting can surely hurt the cooling effectiveness. There is a good chance that this happened. If necessary an exhaust shop can fabricate new pipes but it is tricky replacing them. Let's hope that the pipes were not damaged.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "