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| Steering rack movement (Page 1/1) |
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TurboGN
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NOV 18, 12:27 PM
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I have a 1988 Fiero GT and there is a clunking noise coming from the front end when going over bumps. I put the front end in the air and all the suspension components seem to be in good shape with no play as well as the wheel bearings. When I check for any play at the front wheels left to right, there is about an 1/8" of play, but instead of coming from worn suspension parts it is coming from the steering rack itself. If I hang onto the rod coming from the steering rack on both sides, I can feel the rod go into the steering rack and back out with no flexing on other components or movement on the opposite wheel.
I tried to see if I could adjust the steering rack, but what looks like a nut or cap on top will not move and neither will the adjustment nut that needs the special tool.
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Patrick
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NOV 18, 03:18 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by TurboGN:
I tried to see if I could adjust the steering rack, but what looks like a nut or cap on top will not move and neither will the adjustment nut that needs the special tool.
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The outer lock nut needs to be loosened before the adjustment nut can be turned. Adjustment instructions are scattered throughout the forum.
The best/easiest way to access the adjustment nut is to remove the front tub. If you do, make sure to remove the two rivets holding a front brake line in place against the tub.
 [This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-18-2024).]
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OldGuyinaGT
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NOV 18, 03:47 PM
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The problem certainly could be related to the rack adjustment, but are you sure it isn't worn inner tie rods? A couple months ago I replaced the right side inner tie rod on my '88 GT due to some endl play, and because I was installing Rodney's brass bushing. Now I'm planning on changing the driver side inner tie rod because I have play on the left side only that is exactly what you describe.
This work is on the list of Fiero stuff I plan to do over my Thanksgiving weekend. But swapping inner tie rod ends isn't very difficult or time consuming. It's actually pretty easy if you have a proper inner tie rod tool at your disposal. I used a loaner from AutoZone and will do so again.
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TurboGN
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NOV 18, 04:47 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
The outer lock nut needs to be loosened before the adjustment nut can be turned. Adjustment instructions are scattered throughout the forum.
The best/easiest way to access the adjustment nut is to remove the front tub. If you do, make sure to remove the two rivets holding a front brake line in place against the tub.
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That top nut will not break free. To me it almost feels like one of those caps they put on to protect the actual nut. I was afraid to put too much force on it not knowing if I it was an actual nut. Steering feels fine except at full turn in either direction or at highway speeds where it feels darty.
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TurboGN
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NOV 18, 04:51 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by OldGuyinaGT:
The problem certainly could be related to the rack adjustment, but are you sure it isn't worn inner tie rods? A couple months ago I replaced the right side inner tie rod on my '88 GT due to some endl play, and because I was installing Rodney's brass bushing. Now I'm planning on changing the driver side inner tie rod because I have play on the left side only that is exactly what you describe.
This work is on the list of Fiero stuff I plan to do over my Thanksgiving weekend. But swapping inner tie rod ends isn't very difficult or time consuming. It's actually pretty easy if you have a proper inner tie rod tool at your disposal. I used a loaner from AutoZone and will do so again. |
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It feels, and looks like all the play is inside the dust boot for the steering rack.
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Patrick
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NOV 18, 05:19 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by TurboGN:
That top nut will not break free. To me it almost feels like one of those caps they put on to protect the actual nut. I was afraid to put too much force on it not knowing if I it was an actual nut.
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I don't think you're following what I posted. Read it again! 
| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
The outer lock nut needs to be loosened before the adjustment nut can be turned.
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Check this page if you're still unsure of what I'm describing.
 [This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-18-2024).]
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TurboGN
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NOV 18, 09:17 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Check this page if you're still unsure of what I'm describing.
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On my rack the very top of the nut looks the same, but the part underneath where it shows the special tool is totally different on mine, the tool would not fit.
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Patrick
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NOV 18, 09:30 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by TurboGN:
On my rack the very top of the nut looks the same, but the part underneath where it shows the special tool is totally different on mine, the tool would not fit.
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The specialty tool is just for sissies. Real men use a hammer and a drift.
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jelly2m8
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NOV 19, 03:27 PM
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Factory spec for the preload adjuster on the 88 rack is 70- 90 degrees from full load. Which means tighten the plunger until it bottoms out, then loosen 70- 90 degrees.
While your in there, I'd pull the bottom pinion bearing cap and inspect that lower pinion bearing.
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