Out of Ideas (World's Longest Brake Job) (Page 1/4)
Doggo MAR 14, 10:40 PM
I won't bore you with how we got here (Lord knows it's a long story) but let me catch you up to speed on what's going on. My '85 WILL NOT push brake fluid to the front calipers. Fluid flows freely through the lines. It will gravity bleed, and if you let it sit and accumulate fluid in the lines you can get one good bleed out of it before it goes back to pushing nothing out of the bleeder. This is of course after trying THREE separate master cylinders on the rig (more on that later). Fluid flows to the rear and the rears bleed just fine. The pedal will even start to build up some stiffness just bleeding the backs. But once you open the front for a bleed, pedal goes right to the floor. This is what we've replaced so far:

- all 4 calipers are now brand new cast ones from some Chinese company on amazon (ask me about my experience with remanned fiero calipers)
- all 4 soft hoses
- remanned power brake booster (had a friend insist this was the issue)
- rotors, pads, all parking brake cables, though that's not really pertinent here
- and finally, THREE separate master cylinders, two were remans and one (from the same chinese supplier as the calipers) claims to be new cast, but I can't find any difference between it and the remans - it looks and feels the exact same

We have taken off and blown air through all hard lines, fluid should be going through them just fine. Now, I will say, the OEM(?) master, the one that was on the car when I bought it, will push fluid to the fronts BUT there is a never ending stream of bubbles when bleeding it, makes me think a seal is bad in it because the rest of the system is leak free. It may also be of note that the original master seems to be a different metal, it looks different and is much lighter. Here's the original one:



In contrast, here's how all the ones I've purchased look:



And finally, here's what my current set up looks like:



The little blue thing is a stopper that blocks the prop. valve from closing off the front circuit, as that was an issue at one point.

That's about all I can think to tell you at the moment. Fronts just won't get fluid pushed through them. I've scoured this forum looking for others with this issue, but haven't been able to find one whose problem wasn't solved by replacing collapsed soft lines. My partner in this project/ pedal-jockey-bleeder-buddy will likely be lurking around this thread, and may even throw in his 2 cents, so look out for that. Other than that, I'm open to any and all suggestions at this point, cause I'm sure as hell out of both good and bad ideas.

Thanks,
Doggo


---------------------------------------------------------

This post is part of a series of threads in which I attempt to stumble my way through an (unintentional) complete brake overhaul on my 1985 Fiero. Check out the other episodes, if you're having a brake problem, chances are I've had it too!

Episode I - Rear Brake Blues
Episode II - Destroying My Brand New Caliper
Episode III - The Parking Brake
Spinoff Episode - At wits end (started by my partner)
Episode IV - Out of Ideas (You are here)

[This message has been edited by Doggo (edited 03-27-2025).]

cartercarbaficionado MAR 15, 12:59 AM

quote
Originally posted by Doggo:

I won't bore you with how we got here (Lord knows it's a long story) but let me catch you up to speed on what's going on. My '85 WILL NOT push brake fluid to the front calipers. Fluid flows freely through the lines. It will gravity bleed, and if you let it sit and accumulate fluid in the lines you can get one good bleed out of it before it goes back to pushing nothing out of the bleeder. This is of course after trying THREE separate master cylinders on the rig (more on that later). Fluid flows to the rear and the rears bleed just fine. The pedal will even start to build up some stiffness just bleeding the backs. But once you open the front for a bleed, pedal goes right to the floor. This is what we've replaced so far:

- all 4 calipers are now brand new cast ones from some Chinese company on amazon (ask me about my experience with remanned fiero calipers)
- all 4 soft hoses
- remanned power brake booster (had a friend insist this was the issue)
- rotors, pads, all parking brake cables, though that's not really pertinent here
- and finally, THREE separate master cylinders, two were remans and one (from the same chinese supplier as the calipers) claims to be new cast, but I can't find any difference between it and the remans - it looks and feels the exact same

We have taken off and blown air through all hard lines, fluid should be going through them just fine. Now, I will say, the OEM(?) master, the one that was on the car when I bought it, will push fluid to the fronts BUT there is a never ending stream of bubbles when bleeding it, makes me think a seal is bad in it because the rest of the system is leak free. It may also be of note that the original master seems to be a different metal, it looks different and is much lighter. Here's the original one:



In contrast, here's how all the ones I've purchased look:



And finally, here's what my current set up looks like:



The little blue thing is a stopper that blocks the prop. valve from closing off the front circuit, as that was an issue at one point.

That's about all I can think to tell you at the moment. Fronts just won't get fluid pushed through them. I've scoured this forum looking for others with this issue, but haven't been able to find one whose problem wasn't solved by replacing collapsed soft lines. My partner in this project/ pedal-jockey-bleeder-buddy will likely be lurking around this thread, and may even throw in his 2 cents, so look out for that. Other than that, I'm open to any and all suggestions at this point, cause I'm sure as hell out of both good and bad ideas.

Thanks,
Doggo


dude double check that your master is pushing fluid. also those prop valve stoppers may or may not work on fieros. ive had various issues using them so try recentering the valve by leaving a rear bleeder open...at least youll know if the master cylinder is worth anything at that point because it should force fluid through the front.
i had a similar problem with my 87 gt and the 84 (both had major brake issues when bought...) that turned out to be a suspect prop valve on both. one is using a 2 door s10 valve and the other is using a vette one (its what we had on the shelf and we have been looking for rebuild kits or prop valves that work as intended and its been hard. s10 seems ok though) only reason im using an s10 one is the master cylinder is litterally a fiero replacement one (fierostore sells them as a "big bore" so my thinking was eh good enough for now since the early s10s share the opposite weight balance but give that 70 percent to the fronts right before lockup (tested at 85 and down to 10 mph. that 84 is quite peppy with some tuning)

[This message has been edited by cartercarbaficionado (edited 03-15-2025).]

1985 Fiero GT MAR 15, 08:37 AM
Yeah I would say that if all the other parts have been fixed/replaced several times, and your proportioning valve has had known issues, and had been modified to "fix" those issues, then that's probably what's causing your problem.
NuClearFuRy MAR 15, 11:07 AM
That "fix" is just a way to stop the prop valve from moving at all. We let the fronts bleed to nothing at one point so we would do one bleed and then the prop valve would get stuck forward. It wouldn't slide back on its own and needed to be manually pushed back if you want any fluid to find its way to the front. Now the prop valve is forced always open just until we get fluid back in the front so the system can self heal itself then we will take that lock out and put the sensor back in. (see pic)

I would also like to reclarify that we can push fluid out of the front with the master that was in the car when it was purchased. You can bleed over and over, but there is super small never ending never changing bubbles on both sides front. With the two new masters we can bleed once and push good fluid but then the pedal is dead for the next about 20-30 min. You can get it back faster if you bleed the backs but its still an ordeal.

Having the car on doesn't seem to help or hurt. I also put a vaccum gun on the front and holding it at 15 PSI for about a minute or two yeilds no results.
cartercarbaficionado MAR 15, 07:41 PM

quote
Originally posted by NuClearFuRy:

That "fix" is just a way to stop the prop valve from moving at all. We let the fronts bleed to nothing at one point so we would do one bleed and then the prop valve would get stuck forward. It wouldn't slide back on its own and needed to be manually pushed back if you want any fluid to find its way to the front. Now the prop valve is forced always open just until we get fluid back in the front so the system can self heal itself then we will take that lock out and put the sensor back in. (see pic)

I would also like to reclarify that we can push fluid out of the front with the master that was in the car when it was purchased. You can bleed over and over, but there is super small never ending never changing bubbles on both sides front. With the two new masters we can bleed once and push good fluid but then the pedal is dead for the next about 20-30 min. You can get it back faster if you bleed the backs but its still an ordeal.

Having the car on doesn't seem to help or hurt. I also put a vaccum gun on the front and holding it at 15 PSI for about a minute or two yeilds no results.


then your master cylinder isn't being properly used. its probably partially applied at all times blocking off fluid flow. its not unheard of.. find a rebuilt kit for the original if you still have it
Doggo MAR 16, 10:25 AM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

dude double check that your master is pushing fluid.




Should have mentioned that while bench bleeding, all new masters seem to push fluid fine from the front circuit just fine. Seems I'm in the same boat as you with finding a working / rebuilt prop. valve for this car. That is to say, it's damn near impossible.
Interesting about the master being "half applied" at all times, any idea what causes that? I'll probably end up getting a rebuild kit for the original master and see where that gets us. If nothing, I guess I'll have no choice but to jerry rig something up with a non fiero prop. valve. Any thoughts on prop valve delete entirely? I know I know safety safety blah blah blah but can it be done? As always, your insight is greatly appreciated.
cartercarbaficionado MAR 16, 06:32 PM

quote
Originally posted by Doggo:


Should have mentioned that while bench bleeding, all new masters seem to push fluid fine from the front circuit just fine. Seems I'm in the same boat as you with finding a working / rebuilt prop. valve for this car. That is to say, it's damn near impossible.
Interesting about the master being "half applied" at all times, any idea what causes that? I'll probably end up getting a rebuild kit for the original master and see where that gets us. If nothing, I guess I'll have no choice but to jerry rig something up with a non fiero prop. valve. Any thoughts on prop valve delete entirely? I know I know safety safety blah blah blah but can it be done? As always, your insight is greatly appreciated.


most people swap to a Wilwood prop valve
applied partially could be the pushrod being mis adjusted.
also it will push fluid fine on the bench? could be not bled enough or the seals are bypassing seeing actual pressure. can you see any bubbles still coming out?
Doggo MAR 17, 05:37 PM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

can you see any bubbles still coming out?



We usually stop the bench bleed a few pumps after no longer seeing any bubbles from either circuit. Admittedly it takes much less time than I anticipate (no more than 10 mins of pumping). I was always under the assumption that no bubbles means you’re good to go. Could it be as simple as not bleeding the master all the way through? Wouldn’t there still be bubbles if there were more air in the master? I suppose we could try just giving the thing a REAL GOOD like 30 mins of pumping. But that always seemed like overkill and I didn’t think such symptoms could be produced by trapped air in master. Also on the subject of rebuilding, try as I may I CANNOT find a kit/ new seals for this master. When I looked like a year ago I remember seeing them everywhere (fiero store, rock auto, autozone) but it now appears that they have magically vanished. Figures.
cartercarbaficionado MAR 17, 05:47 PM

quote
Originally posted by Doggo:


We usually stop the bench bleed a few pumps after no longer seeing any bubbles from either circuit. Admittedly it takes much less time than I anticipate (no more than 10 mins of pumping). I was always under the assumption that no bubbles means you’re good to go. Could it be as simple as not bleeding the master all the way through? Wouldn’t there still be bubbles if there were more air in the master? I suppose we could try just giving the thing a REAL GOOD like 30 mins of pumping. But that always seemed like overkill and I didn’t think such symptoms could be produced by trapped air in master. Also on the subject of rebuilding, try as I may I CANNOT find a kit/ new seals for this master. When I looked like a year ago I remember seeing them everywhere (fiero store, rock auto, autozone) but it now appears that they have magically vanished. Figures.


i forget if you can see into the bores on the fiero from the top and im too lazy to shovel snow off mine to go look. i belive they removed all kits after someone had a incident recently.
it just sounds like theres a massive airlock or litterally 0 fluid flow to the fronts. ironically we had the opposite problem on my 87 and our 84
Brian A MAR 17, 06:09 PM

quote
Originally posted by Doggo: Any thoughts on prop valve delete entirely? I know I know safety safety blah blah blah but can it be done?...

If that stock thing is indeed a proportioning valve, it's probably very unwise to eliminate it. You never know when you want your brakes to work to their full potential.

I'm one of the people who has installed a Wilwood proportioning valve but because I changed brake calipers and rotors. Note that its not a simple replacement. It means a lot of bending and flaring of tubing.

Here is my war story:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/147558.html