Tang-Band sub-woofer upgrade (Page 10/13)
Tom Slick JUN 14, 10:29 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierosound:
Many thanks to Bigfieroman who did the initial research on this (don't know where he went??)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-076432.html




thanks for the link

now i see i need bass blockers, where was this post a few days ago. lol...
fierosound JUN 16, 09:53 AM

quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

now i see i need bass blockers, where was this post a few days ago. lol...




... at the bottom of my first post when I started this thread.
Tom Slick JUN 16, 04:29 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierosound:


... at the bottom of my first post when I started this thread.



Oh, guess it would help if i read the entire thread first. doh!
i didn't get that far cause i was only interested in the sub and speaker setup cause i have the factory sub, now i think i want to upgrade that next.
fierosound JUN 17, 09:31 AM

quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

i didn't get that far cause i was only interested in the sub and speaker setup cause i have the factory sub, now i think i want to upgrade that next.




quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

now i see i need bass blockers,




I'd say don't bother with bass blockers unless you find the speakers are rattling at high volume on bass-y tunes. Then you need them.
Lou and Blue JAN 22, 05:27 PM
Hi, I just bought this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIE...&hash=item3389fcaf9f

But it needs a replacement speaker so I was thinking of doing the tang upgrade speaker. Which is $60 here

http://www.parts-express.co...m-subwoofer--264-831

And I'm looking into buying the CD player advertised for$120 here.

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...067918.html#lastpost

I would like to know if this factory amp will power the tang sub speaker enough to make a difference ,or if I should just buy the Rodney dickman sub replacement speaker here

http://rodneydickman.com/ca...h=29&products_id=134

I do like ALOT of bass!

Thanks for any advice!
------------------
Louis Duet
Baldwin, Long Island, NY
"Blue" <= '85 Fiero GT
Stock V6---Stock everything.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Boo" <= '81 Delorean DMC-12
VIN #5835
Stock PRV engine
Robertson Equipped
Neiland/Delman Engineered
Carbed and loving it! (Peugot 604 manifold) ---"Sorry purists"

[This message has been edited by Lou and Blue (edited 01-22-2014).]

fierosound JAN 23, 09:01 AM

quote
Originally posted by Lou and Blue:

I would like to know if this factory amp will power the tang sub speaker enough to make a difference ,or if I should just buy the Rodney dickman sub replacement speaker here




The "inventor" ran this sub with the stock amplifier. Read his writeup.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-076432.html
markkrug FEB 21, 11:20 AM
I just got my Tang Band installed. I had to use a Kenwood 1502 amp as I did not have a stock amp. The system will not knock your socks off so to speak but it is a HUGE improvement over no subwoofer. The system does not rattle and shake the mirrors but you know there is a subwoofer kicking in the car. I got the amp off ebay for about $54.00. It was an easy install and fits perfectly behind the passenger seat.
PaulJK APR 24, 06:27 AM

quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

Because the tube is tuned for the stock speaker, it needs to be modified to match the new speaker's specs. Cut off 2 inches from the end.





quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

Originally posted by timgray:
... if you are using the Tang Band speaker as mentioned in one of the other posts, stuff it loosely with the poly fill, put a little in the port tube and cut 3/4 of an inch off the end of the port tube to tune the box perfectly to the Tang Band 5.25" subwoofer driver.




Should this be 2" or 3/4" cut off the end ?

I just ordered a kicker 6.5 inch sub for a sealed box (0.2-0.3 cu. ft.). Would the factory enclosure work ok if i use polyfill and just capped the tube ?

Anyone else use a 6.5 " sub in the factory enclosure ?

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 04-24-2014).]

fierosound APR 27, 07:27 AM

quote
Originally posted by PaulJK:

Should this be 2" or 3/4" cut off the end ?

I just ordered a kicker 6.5 inch sub for a sealed box (0.2-0.3 cu. ft.). Would the factory enclosure work ok if i use polyfill and just capped the tube ?

Anyone else use a 6.5 " sub in the factory enclosure ?




Cut 2" off (I just edited the quote on the 3/4" cut to avoid this confusion again). That's for the Tang-Band subwoofer.
If you're using something else - that's another matter (and another calculation I guess).

Tim Gray did the original calculations: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-086896.html

(Tim Gray) UPDATE : I updated fierosound with this info.... Increase the trimming of the tube to 2 inches instead of the 3/4" I recommended above. It get's rid of some of the boominess I found. I also added more poly fill to the box as well. I had a problem with a "boomy sound" when anything with heavy bass was played. Taking off the 2 inches made the bass response flatter across the frequencies.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-27-2014).]

Boostdreamer APR 27, 04:28 PM
What's the final word on sealing the tube after cutting it? Tape it tightly closed or just enough to keep the poly fluff inside? Can you give a better description of how densely to pack the fluff? Similar to a newborn's floppy stuffed toy, like blown-in attic insulation, or like a more rigid teddy bear?

I did find a piece of 3/4" MDF at Home Depot for $6. It was a 12"x48" piece. I would have paid that for a scrap so it was a no-brainer to buy it. I made that stupid ring THREE times and all three broke. The first one broke from the pressure of my jigsaw blade vibrating the whole piece. It broke along one of the thin sides.



The other two split horizontally when I tried to tighten screws into them.



The third one split even though I had only cut a 1-1/2" hole in the center. Apparently, MDF just isn't made for wood screws!



I went back to Home Depot and found a Red Oak board that was 3/4 or 1", can't remember. It was something like 6"x24" and also about $6.



I'm still working on it. Got to open the hole up some more. The oak is definately more difficult to work on. It takes more effort to remove material. The good news is that I already have fit it to the box, the holes are drilled for the screws, and they have been run in and back out. No sign of splitting anywhere this time!



The other thing I will mention is that I cut the connector off the original speaker and soldered it to the contacts of the new TB speaker. I hope it doesn't matter which tab the wires go to.

[This message has been edited by Boostdreamer (edited 05-01-2014).]