Northstar 6 Speed (Page 2/20)
Joseph Upson SEP 22, 05:19 PM
I solid mounted my setup when I couldn't find the poly interlocking trans mounts locally at the time I wanted them. I have an 86 so my cradle is different. I was trying to get a good look at your clearance but couldn't get an idea since there are no pictures of the two key areas I noted on mine. The bottom of the trans over the driver side of the cradle has about 1/4" clearance and about the same for the front edge near where the front tranny mount would go so it's about as low as reasonably possible as well as close to standard specs. If I had the time for such a project I would have liked to have modified the cradle to allow for at least a 1" lower position relative to stock. That's about as far as I could go before the oil pan protrudes below the cradle.
Team Race-Tech SEP 22, 06:03 PM
The flywheels are pricey, mainly they are made to order and no quantaty is made. For the one peice aluminum with steel friction surface and balanced to match the stock northstar flex plate, this will work with a standard custom clutch design like the one used for the 3800 application ( pressur plate and disk) with the exception the G6 input spline hub $750.00 CDN.


Joe

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Street Legal Tuning.

Specializing in Fiero performance:
3800 swaps, custom Aluminum flywheels, Brakes, Engine's, Aftermarket Bolt on performance parts, used Fiero parts,
www.iactech.com e-mail: joetrentadue@hotmail.com

Zac88GT SEP 22, 08:12 PM
I have about the same bottom clearance that you do, it's about 1/4"-5/16" between the bottom of the tranny and the top of the cradle rail. My oil pan sits about 1/4" higher that the bottom of the cradle.
FieroWannaBe SEP 22, 11:04 PM
What are you doing for axles?

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PROJECT 1986 GT Stormbringer

Team Race-Tech SEP 23, 09:59 PM
Hi Joseph,
A question? back in you first post when you started with the quest to building your swap you had said you went to a auto parts store to look at some similar clutches that use the same number of splines as the G6, if i'm correct was it from a ford Ranger? now that you have a custom clutch what center hub did they use? and will the one from ford work?

joe
Zac88GT SEP 24, 10:39 AM
There are a few different ford ranger clutches that all have the right spline and diameter, all the 3.0L V6. 95-97 98-00 01-03 and 04-06. I had a look at the first three models and found the first two to be exactly what i was looking for, they both use the same disc, and from what i can tell the same pressure plate, just the TOB is different. The 01-03 center hub section with the springs was very thick, if using the fiero pressure plate the fingers would definatly contact the disc. If i end up buying a disc from spec it will be from the 99 Ranger 3.0L.
Russ544 SEP 24, 12:53 PM

quote
Originally posted by Zac88GT:

There are a few different ford ranger clutches that all have the right spline and diameter, all the 3.0L V6. 95-97 98-00 01-03 and 04-06. I had a look at the first three models and found the first two to be exactly what i was looking for, they both use the same disc, and from what i can tell the same pressure plate, just the TOB is different. The 01-03 center hub section with the springs was very thick, if using the fiero pressure plate the fingers would definatly contact the disc. If i end up buying a disc from spec it will be from the 99 Ranger 3.0L.



when I did my Northstar/Isuzu swap I got the clutch, pp and flywheel from CHRF. they use Mccloud products and have a very nice clutch setup they use for the sand rails etc. just tell Alan what spline you need and he should be able to fix you up. I'm running a stock vin9 motor and have seen zero slippage and engagement is very smooth.

Russ
Alex4mula SEP 24, 03:37 PM

quote
Originally posted by befarrer:

Sorta related question. I see you have a hydraulic release bearing, I guess all 6 speeds have this, but what do you do for a clutch master? Does the Fiero master work ok with the release bearing? Reason I am asking is because I am looking for a getrac, but most of the ones I am looking for used the hydraulic release bearing.




It does work ok. You just need to mate the slave line to the HB.

Zac88GT; Those mounts look great!

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Red: TPI V8 + 6-Speed Yellow: Nitrous 3.4 + 4 speed Auto
304rwHP/366rwTQ

Will SEP 25, 09:08 AM
What's the piston area of the hydraulic throw out?
Zac88GT SEP 26, 01:31 AM
Well i made my clutch disc today. I have a spec stage 3+ clutch that i only put a few hundred km's on with the getrag and i really wanted to re-use it. From what i've read some of the higher powered manual guys are having problems with sprung hubs, and after switching to a solid hub clutch everything was fine. They say the engagment really isn't all that much different and i really dont mind a rough ride. I was thinking about buying a stage 4 disc from spec for a 99 ford ranger but that would cost 250-300 at least. So instead i decided to modify my stage 3+ into a stage 4 and convert it to the correct spline. I used the center hub section from an 88 ford ranger 4 cyl i think, all rangers have the correct spline, and welded it in the center of my stage 3+ disc. I figure the worst case scenario is that it either breaks or i dont like how it drives in which case at that point i will buy a proper disc. But for only $20 i'd like to try the welded disc just to see what it's like. The center section looked like it was two pieces, the spline looked like it was pressed into the flange, so the first step i did was weld that in solid. Then i put it in the lathe and turned one of the welds down so it was a nice fit inside the center of the clutch disc. Then tack welded in a few places and then welded it up. It only warped slightly (a hundredth maybe) although i don't know if it was even perfectly straight before, either way i'm not worried about it. The welds are relatively symetrical so i'm not to concerned about ballancing. Like i said it was only $20 to modify it and worst case scenario is i have to buy another disc, but i'm pretty sure it's going to work just fine.




I've also been thinking about how i'm going to modify my axles. I'm starting with the intermediate shaft and axles from a supercharged cobalt ss. I think i'm going to weld the axles but i'm not sure which way. There is a circle track place locally that grinds the axles down to points and welds them up from there for $100 each or i was thinking of welding a beefy sleeve overtop of them. My old shop teacher has had great success with the sleave method. I'm also thinking about haveing them cryo treated after welding to increase their strength, but the idea is to keep the cost down, i guess we'll see when it comes time.

[This message has been edited by Zac88GT (edited 09-27-2007).]