Rob

Even though I oversized the x-frame design to 2-1/2 x 2-1/2, I still felt that more bracing would be required for a LT1 engine.

The plan was to wrap around the existing rust free rockers and build a rollbar style brace to tie the x-frame to the firewall.
I had extra steel so I explored the b-pillars and found that if I could get the angle right 2-1/2 box could fit and strengthen it substantially for a nice solid door closing.

The top of the firewall would receive 1" x 2" box to bring the height near flush with the rear deck.
Once everything was cut to fit its would be bolted then welded in position.
The last place I looked into extra bracing was in the rear wheelwells behind the pillar.
Hopefully now I have enough extra steel added to limit flex when the big V8 torques.

Here are the pics showing the rocker and firewall upgrades

View of mods in primer

Passenger side door jam showing 30"x6"x3/16" plate with top plate welded and 3 - 4"x1/2" bolts through rocker and x-frame

View of rear wheelwell brace from x-frame to rear of b-pillar

Here is a view of the driver's rocker in paint showing the rocker mods

And an overview shot of the subframe from the x-frame to the top of the firewall

Hopefully this with give me the strength of a roll bar while maintaining the stock look as none of it will be visible.
I estimate that after removing the roof weight and then adding so much steel - the net difference is about 100 pounds.
A trip to the local landfill site for a weigh in upon completion should prove I'm still under 3000lbs.
The car weighed in at 2857lbs curb weight without driver in stock form.

Next pictures will show windshield mods then after that I will be shaping the b-pillar covers.

Ryan

For extra strenght 3/4" solid bar was run inside the length of the A-pillar.
It's a very tight fit, but with a little grinding on one of the corners, they went in and provided some extra strength.

To cap the windshield with sheet metal - I grabbed a length of drive cleat and unfolded the tabs into a "C" shape.
Then I formed it to follow the contour of the windshield and spot welded it on the top and bottom as I went along.

Here is a shot from the back that shows the sheet metal welded in place ready for fiberglass finish work to come much later

Working on the B-pillars now and will post pictures when they are done.

Rye

The goal is to blend the height transition from the door to the rear deck.
Fastbacks don't have this problem, but most guys wouldn't cut a fastback roof off anyways
The plan was to:

- make a cardboard pattern
- trace it onto sheet metal
- flip over and repeat for the other side
- cut out patterns with shears
- pretend I'm good with a brake
- pretend I'm a good spot welder

Luckily everything with be covered in fiberglass later - he are the pictures...

Cardboard pattern (wasn't a cereal box but similar thickness for easy cutting / shaping

Transferred pattern with spray paint (no sharpie handy)

Used my 3' brake to make nice sharp bends

This is what piece looked like just before install (upside down)

Test fit before some trimming and welding them in

This gives an idea of the final profile (please note it is sitting too high in this pic prior to welding)

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The Steel Lady: Pix to follow........

Super Bowl XL CHAMPS!!!

Thanks 3800superfast
Yah it is already in this thread.

Dropped in new sheet metal truck approx 6" shallower so you don't see it from the rear.
The rotten old trunk was removed except for the front side that now acts as a heat shield (only side that was rust and dent free)

I recently bought Greg's "High Performance Fieros" book and liked how they removed all the tabs to smooth out the engine compartment, so I grinded smooth and repainted bay with a tuff textured trunk bed lining spray.
Here's how it came out

I wanted to keep the engine compartment black - it came out looking better than I expected

This time around I added 2 additional frame reinforcements inside the passenger side frame rail.
They are 3/16" angle iron that are bolted and welded to create a subframe inside the rails.

Here is a shot of the outside frame rail with a large angle iron bolted, welded and grinded to clear the 245 tires.
Soon I will have the rebuilt LT1 back with a reversed intake, however the strut tower notch will make any future servicing of the stock LT1 water pump or Optispark distributor a breeze.
I also tidied up the hinge box notch - it is larger than required because I was going to use Dart heads, but they were not designed for reverse flow cooling - the stock ported / polished heads with stainless valve covers with fit with plenty of clearance to spare.

Time to get out in the garage and do some work worthy of taking new pictures of...