88 2.5 rebuild (Page 3/7)
Zeak NOV 09, 12:54 AM
Went to the parts store and paid $2.99 for a small exhaust connector.
It's 18 gauge galvanized steel. Made a paper tracing of the pim and them cleaned it up and traced it onto the connector.
Going to cut it down the back side and unroll it and then cut the holes. (It's hard to find galvanized steel for cheap around here)
On the orange rubbers that seal the coils. I only have one per side. How thick should they be? There only as thick as a nickel at the moment.
Thoughts?

[This message has been edited by Zeak (edited 11-09-2014).]

Zeak NOV 10, 09:49 PM
Got the shield cut out, but I'm not happy with it. It looked great until I tryed to do the more detailed cuts for the coils to connect to.
I'm thinking I need a dremel, not a hand drill and chainsaw file. lol
In other news, My new valves came in.
There soooo nice looking.

[This message has been edited by Zeak (edited 11-10-2014).]

Zeak NOV 12, 11:12 PM
Got everything cleaned up and the first coat of bonding primmer on.
(sat some lug-nuts in the sparkplug holes to keep them clean) lol
Zeak NOV 13, 03:21 PM
Got my 2nd coat of chevy orange curing.
(sorry the #2 pic is blurry.)
Dose anyone know if and how the bottom end is vented?
edfiero NOV 14, 08:31 AM
Why not Pontiac blue?
Zeak NOV 14, 04:13 PM
Because I'm having the body painted next year.
general lee orange :3
Zeak NOV 15, 01:15 AM
Made a little progress tonight before the wife started yelling about the noise.
Zeak NOV 16, 05:24 PM
Doing some more cleaning. Wanted to show what the result of putting too thick of a bead of rtv on the oil pan. It did not fully cure and leaked alot.
I was also very surprised at how much dirt, dust, and rocks came out of my alternator. Still produced a charge....


[This message has been edited by Zeak (edited 11-17-2014).]

Zeak NOV 20, 11:30 PM
Getting the last 2 pistons installed and I have been slowly moving the crank assembly to insure nothing was binding. Now that the bottom end is all together. It seems stiff. Nothings grinding that I can tell. I used a plasta gauge on the crank and con rods and all was well within spec. Thoughts?
Zeak NOV 27, 03:21 AM
So this might work.
Got a belt thats just over 48'' long. Made the hole on the tip of the old tensioner wider so It has a bit of adjustment.
If it dose work great. If not then I'm only out the price of the shorter belt and I haft to buy a new tensioner anyway.
Going to install the oil pan in the morning and let the rtv set up for a few days before it sees any oil.

[This message has been edited by Zeak (edited 11-27-2014).]