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| Fool Everybody. Stereo looks stock, sounds great. (Page 6/19) |
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Kaomkteek
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MAY 28, 05:46 PM
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just as a comment on the 4x6 install -- I have a set of Kappa 462.5 (i think? i don't have the box anymore, it was the top of the line plate speaker 2 years ago) installed in the rear pillars. They were a lot of "fun" to install -- you did have to do some fabrication/modifications to the housing. As I am driving them with a low pass cutoff from an amp, I wasn't too worried about super-high pressures inside the housing so I just filled the gaps with some plastic sealant. It's been a while so I've forgotten the details...but the sound is super-clear and extremely crisp for mids and highs. Very happy.
Now if only the kappa 6x9's from my grand am had a way to fit in without all this silly fabrication *sigh*.  I like the write-up I've been considering the 5.25" component swap for a while. thanks!
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ambfiero
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MAY 28, 09:18 PM
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Yeah I have been looking for a xtant1.1 and have not been able to find any. Any Ideas where to get one or one thats comparable? ------------------
In loving memory of Harold Hummel (PFF 4WHEEL)
1936-2004
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sjmaye
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MAY 29, 05:37 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Kaomkteek:
just as a comment on the 4x6 install -- I have a set of Kappa 462.5 (i think? i don't have the box anymore, it was the top of the line plate speaker 2 years ago) installed in the rear pillars. They were a lot of "fun" to install -- you did have to do some fabrication/modifications to the housing. As I am driving them with a low pass cutoff from an amp, I wasn't too worried about super-high pressures inside the housing so I just filled the gaps with some plastic sealant. It's been a while so I've forgotten the details...but the sound is super-clear and extremely crisp for mids and highs. Very happy.
Now if only the kappa 6x9's from my grand am had a way to fit in without all this silly fabrication *sigh*. I like the write-up I've been considering the 5.25" component swap for a while. thanks! |
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I was wondering about that "fabrication" thing. Is there a set of component panel speakers for the B-pillar that will bolt up without modifications?
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sjmaye
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JUN 02, 07:46 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by sjmaye:
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I bought one of the GM9-AUX devices. I am getting no sound
A couple questions:
I have the PIE device connected to my mp3 player headphone jack. I press CD twice to switch from the CD player to the "CD changer". The display shows CD1 Track 1. I play a song thru from the MP3 player and I get nothing. Switch back to CD and sound works great.
Any ideas?
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Toddster
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JUN 02, 09:18 PM
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That was a GREAT read. Thanks Fierosound.
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Chris_narf
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JUN 03, 01:12 AM
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Fierosound, good write up. I've been following this thread for a while now. I've got a few questions I've been wondering about:
1.) I actually have the "Monsoon" CD Player as well. Since it was installed by the previous owner I'm not sure how it was wired. However, one of the things that I've noticed is that the power to the rears seams like next to nothing. Does anyone know what these things are supposed "realistically" push to the front and rear channels?
2.) With the rear speakers being close to the ears (88 GT, so in the B pillars) I've noticed that the stereo imaging kinda sucks. I've got some ideas that I may bring up in another thread when I have $$ to blow, but I'm curious how you or others have dealt with this?
3.) I've got the opportunity to pick up an older (5 years or so) Pioneer Premier head unit that was top of the line way back when for cheap. IMHO I would think it would blow the "Monsoon" head unit out of the water. Also, would it be enough to power the front components you used; I've traditionally only used components with an external amp. Comments?------------------
-Chris
'85 V6 SE 4sp (SOLD)
'88 GT Auto (fun car)
'03 Sentra SE-R Spec V (Daily driver)
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fierosound
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JUN 03, 11:47 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by sjmaye:
I bought one of the GM9-AUX devices. I am getting no sound
A couple questions:
I have the PIE device connected to my mp3 player headphone jack. I press CD twice to switch from the CD player to the "CD changer". The display shows CD1 Track 1. I play a song thru from the MP3 player and I get nothing. Switch back to CD and sound works great.
Any ideas? |
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That sounds right about the display switching to CD1 Track 1. According to KRU, not all Delco units can control a changer or accept an interface.
He would be the best person to ask here on PFF. He may be able to suggest how to troubleshoot what's happening. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/011110.html[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-03-2007).]
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fierosound
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JUN 03, 12:18 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Chris_narf:
Fierosound, good write up. I've been following this thread for a while now. I've got a few questions I've been wondering about:
1.) I actually have the "Monsoon" CD Player as well. Since it was installed by the previous owner I'm not sure how it was wired. However, one of the things that I've noticed is that the power to the rears seams like next to nothing. Does anyone know what these things are supposed "realistically" push to the front and rear channels?
2.) With the rear speakers being close to the ears (88 GT, so in the B pillars) I've noticed that the stereo imaging kinda sucks. I've got some ideas that I may bring up in another thread when I have $$ to blow, but I'm curious how you or others have dealt with this?
3.) I've got the opportunity to pick up an older (5 years or so) Pioneer Premier head unit that was top of the line way back when for cheap. IMHO I would think it would blow the "Monsoon" head unit out of the water. Also, would it be enough to power the front components you used; I've traditionally only used components with an external amp. Comments?
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1. First thing would be to pull the unit and check the wiring. http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/GM-Wiring.pdf
Maybe he was too cheap to buy the proper adapter harness. http://replacementradios.co..._261&products_id=166
There may be something wrong with the unit. Get it bench tested by a shop that repairs factory decks.
2. Do number 1 first, and check what you have for rear speakers. Then play with the balance of the front/rear fader.
3. Pioneers are decent units. What you get for sound depends largely on your speakers and whether they are a good match to the power you have. You want high efficiency speakers (+90db) with a power rating of about 30-40 watts or so. The cheap so called "300 watt" speakers are sometimes very inefficient (under 86db) and so they DO require lots of power to get anything.
Running 20 watts through a quality component set that handles 40 watts will sound great. Run that same 20 watts through a Walmart on sale "300 watt" cheapie, it likely won't sound any good, and most people will automatically blame the "lack of power" on the CD unit. True, the speaker is underpowered because it is not a good match, and it is likely inefficient.
Most people still think you need +500 watts for subwoofers - B.S. In my GT I'm only running 100 watts to each subwoofer and it has plenty of volume and punch. I won most of my competitions running the same subwoofers on 50 watts before I upgraded to the Mcintosh amplifier. But these subs are very efficient and rated at 150 watts. If I had 1000 watt subs - I'd NEED near 1000 watts of amplifer power.
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Xanth
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JUL 04, 08:44 PM
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fierosound
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JUL 05, 10:40 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Xanth:
I was looking at that sub you recommended that fits the stock enclosure and noticed its magnet is way smaller than the one one the on the rodney sub. Is it actually more powerful?
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Rodney's sub has a dust cover on the magnet (so it looks bigger) and is 8 ohms. I don't know any other specs. The Tang Band has a Neodymium magnet. These are smaller and give you more output with less power because they are more efficient. Typically, tweeters have Neodymium magnets for this reason. Most importantly, the Tang Band subwoofer has 9.25mm of travel making it a "long throw" subwoofer. That moves a lot of air which is what gives you the bass you want.
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