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| Lets Convert a Fiero to Right Hand Drive (Page 1/21) |
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AusFiero
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DEC 16, 06:46 PM
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Well my new 88 GT is in the country so now the fun starts. It has to be RHD to be complianced and registered. The aim here is to also keep the conversion cost under $2000. If I sent it off to be done it would cost about $6000 to $8000.
First I will post some pics of the victim, oops car, an 88 GT with 60K miles on the clock and a lot of mods I was suprised to discover upon its arrival in the country. Here it is hiding amongst the other toys. The white GT in the driveway is now sold as is my parts car. Leaving me with 1 Fiero instead of 3 GTs.
 Sitting in the garage ready to be torn down.
 It is a really nice condition GT.
 Ever wondered what 245/60/15s look like on a GT? Huge.
Next post I will start the conversion. Apparently I have to go out and buy a new washing machine now as the repair guy just left and it is FUBAR.
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[This message has been edited by AusFiero (edited 12-23-2005).]
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The Aura
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DEC 16, 07:44 PM
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Looks to be a pretty sweet start.
Is that commmodore a clubsport?
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3.8 SC
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DEC 16, 10:26 PM
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I will be watching this! I always thought it would be cool to have RHD car here in the states. Take lots of pics!
I like what you did to your driveway, nice house too.
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WWW.CLEVELANDFIEROS.COM
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/052322.html#lastpost
My rear defuser
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jscott1
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DEC 16, 10:59 PM
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| quote | | Originally posted by The Aura: Is that commmodore a clubsport? |
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It looks like a GTO.... maybe a cousin. 
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AusFiero
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DEC 17, 12:22 AM
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The Holden is a Monaro. The father of the GTO  Anyway back to the RHD conversion. First we strip out the interior of the Fiero. I am sure most people here know how to do that so I wont devote a lot of time to that. A pic of the partially stripped interior.
 After the interior is out we start the conversion to the dashboard, as it is the piece all other pieces need to line up to.
These pics are of the stripped down dash marked out read to cut the dash.
 
After the dash is all marked out we cut out the areas that need swapping over. I did all my cutting with a hacksaw blade.
 
Note on this shot that the dash area around the steering colum has been cut into 2 pieces? Well that is so the colum can be centered into an exact mirror position on the RH side of the dash.
 [This message has been edited by AusFiero (edited 12-23-2005).]
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AusFiero
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DEC 17, 12:32 AM
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Next we tape all the peices back together using plain old masking tape and small straight edge guides made form broken up hacksaw blades taped in as well to keep things straight. At this point you will notice things don't line up along the bottom of the dash. We align with the recess in the top of the dash to keep the glove compartment area and the gauge panel straight. We don't worry about the bottom not lining up. We will get to that soon. 
Here is what the back looks like all ground up ready for joining. 
[This message has been edited by AusFiero (edited 12-23-2005).]
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AusFiero
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DEC 17, 12:41 AM
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As the back of the dash wont be seen I wasn't concerned too much with looks on the join. Just strength. So here I applied a liberal coating of 2 part epoxy glue. 
After the glue has dried we take all the tape off and then prepare for the next stage. Making the bottom of the dash line up. Here is the bottom section cut out. 
After lining up the bottom section you end up with a V shaped gap and on the drivers side a piuece cut off the bottom of the dash. You use the same tape method to line it all up and apply more epoxy glue. The glue also fills the V shaped gap. 
After removing the tape again you end up with a 1 piece dash which looks like this. 
[This message has been edited by AusFiero (edited 12-23-2005).]
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2000RagTop
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DEC 17, 12:44 AM
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Hi AusFiero I apologize for jumping in here. Could I ask you a big favor while you have the dash pulled? Could you snap me
a couple of pictures of the Power Window-Power Door Lock harness? I only need the ends “where they plug in”
I’m installing this upgrade on my Formula, and it would be nice if I could see the ends of the harness where they
are attached/plugged in. Also, if you’re able to get a picture of the “white block” near the fuse panel?
I know you’re busy with your own work, but I haven’t been able to find anyone that has their dash apart. Thank,
Michael p.s. good luck with the conversion!
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AusFiero
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DEC 17, 12:44 AM
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The next stage seems strange but works well and will definately save Money without having to pay $550 to reskin the dashboard.
At this point you fill all gaps in the dash with plain old Bondo. Yes it flexes different to the standard dash finish but we will get to that problem next.
Here are some pics of the dash all bondoed nice and smooth and in a perfect shape. 
Almost looks like a dash again right. 
[This message has been edited by AusFiero (edited 12-23-2005).]
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AusFiero
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DEC 17, 12:55 AM
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| quote | | Originally posted by 2000RagTop: Hi AusFiero I apologize for jumping in here. Could I ask you a big favor while you have the dash pulled? Could you snap me
a couple of pictures of the Power Window-Power Door Lock harness? I only need the ends “where they plug in”
I’m installing this upgrade on my Formula, and it would be nice if I could see the ends of the harness where they
are attached/plugged in. Also, if you’re able to get a picture of the “white block” near the fuse panel? I know you’re busy with your own work, but I haven’t been able to find anyone that has their dash apart. Thank,
Michael p.s. good luck with the conversion! |
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I can do that for you tomorrow when I take more pics.
Cheers
Jim [This message has been edited by AusFiero (edited 12-17-2005).]
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