HHP is Making Sway bars Again! Front and Rear Adjustable Bars (Page 1/37)
R Runner MAR 25, 10:14 AM
UPDATED 10/30/24

Fellow Fiero Enthusiasts,


Well.... I wish I had good news......

While searching for components to prepare for building kits, I found them difficult to locate. After much searching and several calls, I learned that the primary source of my components was no longer in business. At this time, I cannot offer the bars and want to apologize to those that were interested.

Thank you again for your support.
Paul
UPDATED 9/1/24

Fellow Fiero Enthusiasts,


Very soon, I will once again, be making my HHP kits available. Based on testing over the past 6 months, they will offer a better balance and feel.
There will be adjustable "weekend warrior" kits available as well as full competition kits allowing you to tune them to your application and driving preference.
As always, I will work with anyone in their specific application. I prefer to do this to ensure that each person gets the most out of their bars.
The plan is to do something slightly different with the way the bars are offered. Because of this, look for a fresh new post showing the details of the improved set up.
Again, I am very excited to support the Fiero community and take the performance of our cars to the next level.

As always, THANK YOU for your interest and support.
Paul
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Ordering and pricing information below is no longer applicable.

(OLD information: 1/8/13)

If you are interested in ordering any of the following equipment please do one of the following:

1. Send me an email: rrunner@egyptian.net
2. Send me a PM.


I will respond as quickly as possible. Thank you for your interest in this product.
I accept Personal Checks and PayPal . We can discuss other methods of payment if these do not work for you.


The bars for the '88 chassis are NOW AVAILABLE!. Please see the following link for details:
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/043365.html


Below is information on the the sway bars for the '84 to '87 chassis

Fellow Fiero Friends,


As some of you may know, I began to make and sell a rear sway bar for the 1984 to 1987 Fiero from 2002 to 2006. I was autocrossing an '87 GT at the time and recognized the need for a fore / aft balance. To do this I developed a bar I saw used in other racecars. However, I developed it for street use. The 1-1/4? hollow bar was used in the rear and mounted behind the cradle instead of below it. This saved precious ground clearance. I started a company called HHP (Hosler High Performance). Although I didn't advertise much, customers were very pleased with the product and I still have people calling me asking if I still make them. The problem was that the bar took a lot of work to make.

I figured out how to solve the problem. Build a better bar.

And so my quest started. I am very excited about the new product I have developed, measured, and tested. Through 10 years of combined Fiero and racing experience I proud to offer both new products:

HHP FRONT ADJUSTABLE SWAY BAR KIT

and

HHP REAR ADJUSTABLE SWAY BAR KIT

I am very excited about this product because it offers many advantages over other anti-sway bars. Below is a picture of each kit and a description of the benefits:

HHP Front Sway Bar Kit:


HHP Rear Sway Bar Kit:



These bars are intended for cars with stock A-arm geometry and mounting positions on 1984 to 1987 Fieros.

Why are these kits so great?

- The kits use three-piece sway bars. That means the bar can be changed while using all of the existing hardware.
- Each bar arm is adjustable to allow for fine-tuning of the fore/aft balance (4 wheel drift) of the car.
- Because of the great adjustment range, kits can offer a balanced setup both Touring (soft settings) or Competition (stiff settings)
- The rear sway bar mounts by drilling 4 holes in the SIDE of the cradle. Easy installation
- The rear sway bar is mounted behind the cradle so valuable ground clearance is not forfeited.
- All Sway bar arms and brackets are coated with three layers of POR 15.
- I use spring steel in the sway bars. The good stuff.
- Rod end bearings are Greaseable. They will last a very long time.
- End links use high quality poly.
- All bolts are grade 8. Salt spray coatings are used for maximum rust resistance.
- The front bar mounts in the stock location. No need for modifications.
- These kits can compensate for all types of mods. Weight distribution changes, stiffer springs, stiffer shocks, and driver preference can ALL be balanced with adjustment.
- The front sway bar will fit in the stock location and mounting points
- As always, a detailed instruction manual showing full installation and settings is included.


?This is all great, but what?s the big deal? I mean, my fiero handles great now, right??

I think we are talking apples and oranges. As far as I know (and I have been wrong before) bars with this type of adjustability AND higher stiffness have not been offered for our Fieros previously. Compared to an Addco set of front and rear sway bars, there is a very noticeable improvement. The front bar on a stock Fiero has a spring rate of about 100 lb per 5 deg. of twist. ( I measured this) The Addco front bar has about 251 lb at the same twist. Big improvement. But wait, our cars push anyway, right? So what is really needed is a bar in the rear that can balance the car. Without going into boring suspension mathematics and with the mounting locations I have chosen, the rear bar needs to be 250 lbs also. This approximately produces a balanced car. And that?s what my old bar did.

Let?s take this a step further.

What makes a sway bar work? Basically the stiffness (and therefore sway control) can be changed in two major ways:

1. Change the affective arm length
2. Change the stiffness of the bar through wall thickness or diameter.

These bar kits allow for both. The affective arm length can be changed on the rear (see picture below) by positioning the end link bolt in one of 5 holes. This creates 6 (yes, 6) positions. For the rear bar, a hole change creates substantial change in sway bar rate. For the front bar, only 3 holes are used. This makes for some great fine-tuning.
If you decide that the whole car (ride quality) needs to get stiffer or softer, that can be done by changing the sway bar itself. You can change the bar so that you are using a soft ?Touring? setting for in town driving and then put in a ?Competition? bar for a weekend autocross or track day!



How do I know what to get? How do I balance it once I get it?

Good question. How can something like this work for all types of cars and drivers, engines, suspension upgrades, etc? Below is a chart that I hope helps explain more than it confuses. There are lots of lines, so stay with me????.



There are 2 kits available, a front kit and a rear kit. For each kit you have your choice of 1 of 4 types of bar: Touring (black line), Sport (blue line), Performance (white line) and Competition (red line).

The REAR sway bars are shown as diagonal lines from top left to bottom right. The bottom of the chart is the arm adjustment position. As you can see there is a wide range of force settings available. Each bar stiffness is a different color as described above. I can help you choose.

The FRONT sway bars are shown as horizontal lines. Each group of three lines (by color) is a different stiffness of bar. The three lines represent the three hole settings.
WHERE THE FRONT AND REAR BAR LINES CROSS IS THE FORE/AFT BALANCE POINT.
This is what you want as a starting point. Basically a front sport bar should be matched with a rear sport bar, but as you can see that may not be necessary.
Let?s do an example. Let?s say you want to balance the car, but you already have an Addco front bar and want to conserve money (and who doesn?t?). The front Addco bar has a rate of about 251 lb. The proper bar choice is the ?Touring? bar (black diagonal line). The proper setting to begin with would be position #3 or #4.
The cool part is you can change this. Now let?s say you decide you like the car to be set up a little more loose (oversteer for you technical term guys?). No problem. Change the rear bar arm hole position to # 1 or #2.
But wait, now you want to compete in autocross on the weekend. If you purchase an HHP front kit with a competition bar, the sway rate in the front is FAR more than before. We are taking 450 lb ish. The ONLY change that is necessary is to purchase a BAR for the rear. You already have the other hardware (arms, mounts, end links, etc?). Oh yea, and you can put the softer bars back on for a soft ride after race day.

Also keep in mind that the forces shown are approximate. All of the bars were measured using the same method on the same test bench, so relative to each other, they should be pretty good. As an absolute measurement, they may be off some percentage.


So what does each of the rates feel like? For real.

Touring (black lines): This is a daily driver. You like to take turns and appreciate a well-balanced car that always feels good, but ride quality is important because of those darn potholes in the city. The rear version of this bar can be used with the stock front, Addco front or HHP Front Touring bars. A good choice for show cars with a little spirited driving when no one is looking.

Sport (blue lines): The car is still a daily driver, but hey I like to turn! Ride quality is nice, but I?ll give up some to play a little. Interstate cloverleaves and on ramps are my friends and I take them for fun even if it?s not my exit. Besides, the Fiero is made for turning. If it were a drag car, it would have come with a V8 and been called a Firebird. A car with this setup can (don?t try this on the road) be thrown from side to side across two lanes with NO back end over shoot. Can be used at the track or at an autocross.

Performance (white lines): Ride quality is over rated. I want my car to handle! There is even LESS lean than the Sport bar kits. Unless the Viper next to you has a modified suspension (provided you have enough tire grip) he is going to have a tough time hanging with you. This is what turning is all about and the car is impressive on each drive. You are the kind of person who likes to go 15 miles out of your way for some sweet twistys. At this point the main limitation is the tire sidewall flex and grip. Can be used at the track or at an autocross.

Competition (red lines): Just what it says. This is a track day car or autocross car (or you don?t feel the need for much ride quality). However a bar like this is not as stiff as a high shock rate or low profile tires. At an autocross that guy with the E-mod Vette is thinking, ?why the heck isn?t that car leaning?!?!? when you post a killer time. Your car will feel flat in the curves, even when turning the wheel as hard as possible at 40 mph.

My personal preference is the Sport bar for my daily driver. There is no overshoot of the back end and they work well with my 16? rims and all-season performance tires. I do a lot of state highway and Interstate driving. They can also handle downtown St. Louis if necessary without me having to schedule an appointment with the chiropractor.

I think I have covered most of it, but if not ( and I expect this) please post questions. I learn from questions.
How much are they?

The prices are listed below:

Front HHP Sway Bar Kit: $480 US S&H is included to the lower 48 (6 to 8 weeks for delivery)
Rear HHP Sway Bar Kit: $520 US S&H is included to the lower 48 (6 to 8 weeks for delivery)


I have updated the pricing to reflect material cost increases as well as additional fees from other sources.

If you would like to place an order, Please send me a PM or an email. I want to make sure you get the correct bar for your application.

Disclaimer: HHP does not take responsibility for the customer's actions. Also, HHP does not encourage performance driving on the streets and will not be held responsible for damage, property damage, car damage, personal injury, or other person's injury during installation or use of this product. There is no official warranty on this equipment either stated or implied, HOWEVER, I will always work with the customer to make sure they are satisfied. Please use this equipment at your own risk. Thank you for reading the legal stuff.

Also, I may update this site from time to time to make sure it has the latest information.

Please let me know what you think. I am ALWAYS interested in your opinion.

Paul Hosler
Hosler High Performance

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Paul

Pontiac prestige.... Pontiac performance...... Pontiac POWER!
For a full history of the Fiero SS: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/789315

[This message has been edited by R Runner (edited 10-30-2024).]

ccfiero350 MAR 25, 10:32 AM
Very Cool!

I want to be the first to ask are you going to do a set for an 88?

I just recieved last week a pair of Addco's for my 88 gt too.

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

Earl-R MAR 25, 11:21 AM
Paul,

What took you so long?

You know I'll take a rear bar for my GT.
R Runner MAR 25, 12:09 PM

quote
Originally posted by ccfiero350:

Very Cool!

I want to be the first to ask are you going to do a set for an 88?

I just recieved last week a pair of Addco's for my 88 gt too.




Somehow I knew that would be the first question. I will be working on it at some point, but I want to see if these sell first. I also need to get an '88 to test bars on. The important part is balancing the car. I can doo all the calculations (and have) but it means nothing unless it feels right and puts the performance in the chassis.

Don't worry though. I am thinking about you '88 guys.
R Runner MAR 25, 12:24 PM
r
quote
Originally posted by Earl-R:

Paul,

What took you so long?

You know I'll take a rear bar for my GT.



PM Sent.
EMX5636 MAR 25, 03:39 PM
Hey Paul, Keep us updated on the 88 Stuff... I was told by WCF that the addco front, and stock rear was the best mix without a lot of oversteer... Maybe that will help you out a little. If/when you do mess with an 88, I have a Formula with 400#wcf coilover/spring kit, koni's, full poly, and 17/18 combo with 225-40 and 255-35 nitto 555's.... I think the Performance kit would be good for me, but I can't decide between the performance and competition... Which would you recommend? I do drive the car on the street occasionally, but I would like to autocross and road race over the summers... Thanks,

Justin W

Also, what's the bar cost, like If I went with the Performance Kit and then bought the competition bars... Also, do you include calculations with your kit to the approx spring rate's at each endlink hole? Thanks.


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1988 Fiero Formula 4-spd- 3400sfi custom turbo install with a 60-1. Haltech ECU. Here comes 300+whp
1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX - First time at a track/bad launch....13.1@107
1992 S10 2wd - lowered longbed, bike/quad hauler, contemplating a 4.9 caddy swap

1986 Kawi Ninja 600R - turbo setup this winter
1987 Yamaha Warrior

R Runner MAR 25, 07:09 PM

quote
Originally posted by EMX5636:
Hey Paul, Keep us updated on the 88 Stuff... I was told by WCF that the addco front, and stock rear was the best mix without a lot of oversteer... Maybe that will help you out a little.



Thanks. Good information.


quote

If/when you do mess with an 88, I have a Formula with 400#wcf coilover/spring kit, koni's, full poly, and 17/18 combo with 225-40 and 255-35 nitto 555's.... I think the Performance kit would be good for me, but I can't decide between the performance and competition... Which would you recommend? I do drive the car on the street occasionally, but I would like to autocross and road race over the summers... Thanks,



At this point it is hard to say. Without testing and tuning a car with known changes (or lack there of) figuring the balance is simply guessing. I don't want to do that because you and others may be dissappointed with the results. Long answer to a simple question, but I really need to do some figuring and testing.



quote

Also, what's the bar cost, like If I went with the Performance Kit and then bought the competition bars...



The bar by itself is $100 + shipping. So really it's not that bad. I would recommend starting with a matched set first and then selecting a bar change based on feel. (if needed at all). Also if rear performance bar is chosen, it can be used with a front competition bar OR a front sport bar due to its wide adjustment range. Then only one extra bar is needed to significantly change the ride. The rear bars have a much wider adjustment range (and therefore a little less fine tuning).



quote

Also, do you include calculations with your kit to the approx spring rate's at each endlink hole? Thanks.



If I understand you correctly, the "spring" rate of the bar is listed in this thread. On the left column of the blue chart, pounds are shown at 5 degrees of twist. These are measured numbers with HHP arms. Arm geometry plays a big factor (as I found out with several other geometries I tried) with the load transfer. I don't know that you really need it, but I could provide you with pounds per deflection for each hole. Again, an arm geometry for the '88 (front and rear) needs to be developed before I start giving you wrong information.


Justin, thanks for the questions.

Paul

[This message has been edited by R Runner (edited 03-25-2007).]

Ken_86gt MAR 25, 09:04 PM
Referring to the rear sway bar, any chance you could post pictures of the bar mounted to the car? The reason I ask is that I am running a 3800SC engine and the exhaust is behind the cradle and is likely going to interfere if it is located similar to other "add on" rear sway bars. Can this be mounted to the front of the cradle, this would solve a potential problem for me. Thanks

[This message has been edited by Ken_86gt (edited 03-25-2007).]

R Runner MAR 25, 09:45 PM

quote
Originally posted by Ken_86gt:

Referring to the rear sway bar, any chance you could post pictures of the bar mounted to the car? The reason I ask is that I am running a 3800SC engine and the exhaust is behind the cradle and is likely going to interfere if it is located similar to other "add on" rear sway bars. Can this be mounted to the front of the cradle, this would solve a potential problem for me. Thanks





Yes Sir.

Here is a picture of the rear bar from below the car.


Here is a picture of the front bar from below the car.


At this time I do not have a picture from the back of the car while on the ground. I had one for my old bar, but for some reason haven't taken one of this rear bar yet. As soon as I get my axles back in the blue car I'll take some.

The rear bar cannot be mounted in the front of the cradel. Even if someone figured out a way to do it, I would not recommend it.

Hopefully these pictures help. Thank you and please let me know if you need more information.

[This message has been edited by R Runner (edited 03-25-2007).]

chrisgtp MAR 26, 10:09 AM
what if any will this do for bump steer