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| Lol... I'm a dumbass... (Page 1/1) |
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82-T/A [At Work]
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APR 28, 08:15 PM
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Getting ready to drive my Crown Victoria from Texas to Florida... and since I've basically driven the Crown Victoria 100 miles in like 4 years, I needed to make sure it was good to go. I replaced all the hoses with Police Interceptor silicone hoses (new old stock), so I'd never have to change them out again. But where I screwed up is that I tightened the bolts on my driveshaft. I used red lock-tite, and I slathered that **** on there like it was no one's business... practically drenched the threads in it. And then torqued them down.
While I don't see myself needing to remove those bolts any time soon... the question I have is, am I totally screwed? If let's say... 5 years from now... I can definitely apply heat to it, but with that much thread locker, will I have basically screwed myself from removing the bolts?
EDIT: It's literally been almost a decade since I've worked on cars... so I really forgot even the basics.[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 04-28-2021).]
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williegoat
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APR 28, 08:31 PM
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A few million years from now, when a team of archaeologists from another galaxy are trying to figure out if there was ever life on earth, your driveshaft will be the only intact evidence.
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maryjane
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APR 28, 08:35 PM
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BrakeKleen works on red locktite most of the time. If you applied lockite really heavily, then maybe not.
Use the chlorinated brakekleen tho.
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MidEngineManiac
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APR 28, 09:50 PM
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cliffw
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APR 29, 08:33 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
But where I screwed up is that I tightened the bolts on my driveshaft. I used red lock-tite, and I slathered that **** on there like it was no one's business... practically drenched the threads in it. And then torqued them down.
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Why ? Are you a dumbass ?  .
Kidding of course. New old stock procedures work just as well. I don't know how long lock tight cement takes to cure, lock tight. I would remove them and replace the bolts and torque them to specs. All flywheel bolts are supposed to be replaced after one use.
Why did you decide to tighten the bolts on your drive shaft ? A noisy U-joint ?
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82-T/A [At Work]
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APR 29, 03:43 PM
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Thanks MJ, everyone.
Hah... MEM... yeah... I thought about that for a minute and was like... definitely not a good idea to do them together.
Cliff, originally the car came with a steel driveshaft. One of the upgrades was to go with a Police Interceptor driveshaft, which is made of aluminum. It allows for higher top-speeds, but more important than that, because it's balanced better, and with lower rotating mass, provides better engine efficiency. For $30 bucks at the junkyard, it was a good upgrade. When I originally installed it over a decade ago, I never used any thread lock on the bolts. First 3 years the car sat in a garage untouched. Then when I moved back to Florida, I drove it around now and then... but mostly sat. Then I drove it to Texas... which was the longest drive it had seen in almost 15 years. Tags expired (out of state tags) within a year, so it sat for another full 4 years. I noticed on the drive to Texas, the driveshaft made a clunking noise, which I came to discover were driveshaft bolts that had worked themselves loose. I tightened the bolts as soon as I got into town, but over the years (even though I drove less than 10 miles), they were only hand-tight again. So... red threadlock... lol.
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