Basic Fiero electrical testing "How To" and equipment...with pics. (Page 3/4)
Austrian Import MAR 19, 02:02 AM

quote
Originally posted by fierohoho:
As I recall when you turn the key to on but not all the way to start they should light up as a test, if not you have to pull the back cover to the dash pod and check the bulbs one at a time.

To pull the top rear cover it's only three screws on top, T-15 torx bit as I recall, and two T-15 screws at the bottom.

All screws can easily be seen through the windshield if you're not sure where they are.

The bulbs can be checked using the same method I showed to check the fuse.



Well turning the key doesn't light all of them up. (that's what usually worked on other cars,so I tried that first) Leads me to believe that some of the lights are burned out. I'll follow your advice and do step 2 (removing the cover) next and test all the bulbs.

thanks,

-M
85_Fiero_2M4 MAR 19, 08:54 AM
Great thread + for you
Fiero STS MAR 19, 10:04 AM
You are suppose to be writing these up for the club news letter.
Will you be at the meeting tonight?

------------------

Signature courtesy of MinnGreen.

fierohoho MAR 19, 03:06 PM
Hi Tim,

nope, sorry.

No can make the meeting.

Wish I could as my dues are due.

Maybe next month.

Steve

P.S. You want I should do this in a PDF format and send it on for the news letter?

[This message has been edited by fierohoho (edited 03-19-2007).]

Deabionni APR 02, 11:17 AM
Excellent write-up! I tried giving you a "+", bit it looks like you already have one from me.
Cheever3000 APR 02, 11:59 AM
Aw crap. You mean I gotta start working on my own cars now?

Clicking the star to save this one in My PFF.

Thanks!!!
hobbywrench FEB 26, 06:05 PM
Some who buy multi meters (VOMs) may benefit from a feature not discussed (I think). That is current measurement . Look again at the sockets shown on the VOM in the picture. There is a socket at the top labelled mA (milliamp). The owners manual will explain how to use this. Such a measurement can be taken if a gremlin is running your battery down (parasitic drain). With all switched consumers off, including the ignition key out, very little current should flow from your battery (thousandths of an amp = one milliamp). For example the latest new cars loaded with computer gadgets might draw 60 milliamps. The Fiero much less if any. So If you have a problem a proper hookup of the VOM in milliamp mode can help detect a problem which could drain your battery , such as a stuck-on switch or small lamp.

If you have used your VOM in voltage and continuity (beep) you are used to measuring ACCROSS points,but current is DIFFERENT. You measure BETWEEN by inserting the VOM between the points. In the case of checking parasitic drain first the VOM is carefully set up with the mA socket position. The ground cable is loosened from the BAT. One VOM lead is placed on the BAT ground lead terminal, the other to the removed BAT cable connector. Current flow is indicated on the VOM in mA (milliamps). Note if your VOM only has mA capability (as opposed to A capability-full amp, not fractional) and you have a lamp drawing in excess of the mA the VOM fuse may blow (replace it). Many VOMs have 10 amp capacity. Read the owners manual. If there is excessive current indicated start looking for lights left on or other "normally off" consumers of current (an art in itself).

Edit: I just noticed in the VOM pic that the socket says "2 amperes max." This is good because it will probably allow detection of a "gremlin" small light without blowing the contained VOM fuse.

Edit 10-1-14. I have just read thread "Parasitic battery drain-what am I missing?" It is an excellent hands- on and "prompted" trouble shoot by knowledgeable people to find a real current drain. It seems a good supplement to this thread.

[This message has been edited by hobbywrench (edited 10-01-2014).]

oliver9000 MAR 31, 01:35 PM
This is a fantastic How-to. I appreciate the extra details you added, and all the pictures. It eliminates those odd blank spaces when something seems simple but isn't.
MaxStirner APR 04, 12:56 AM
I wish all "How To" threads were like this. Makes it so easy a 10 year old could do it!
Charles Schutty NOV 03, 11:48 PM
I just bought a '86 Fiero 4 Cyl. 2.5 L. 5 speed manual, which once had A/C.
There has been a switch installed on the dash to turn the radiator fan on/off. No A/C now. Since I overheated the car once by leaving it run at idle while parked and forgetting to turn the fan on manually, I wish to return the radiator fan to automatic.
. . . I own a rectangular (Four Seasons 35906) radiator ran relay (4 wires, #12 red, #12 blk/red stripe, #16 black/white stripe, and #16 green/white stripe) and wish to get the vehicle back to automatic radiator fan.
. . .I cannot locate this type relay in either of my vehicles compartments. It is supposed to be on the drivers drivers side, front compartment. At that location is a 'square type 'Santech Ind. MTO636' which I believe was used to switch the radiator fan in cars with A/C.
.I have located the coolant temp sensor and it must be hooked up correctly to the dash temp gauge as that gauge works fine.
I have no idea of what sensor controls the radiator fan relay (same one????). Hoping someone knows what sensor is used and where it is located.
. .. I checked the 'Four Seasons 35906 radiator fan relay' (rectangular) I own and the two #12's are switched by voltage accross the two #16's.
. . .My car had A/C at one time so the fan relays in the front compartment are square shaped 'Santech Ind MTO636' type.
I am at a loss as to what type of sensor is called upon to feed voltage to the #16 control wires onto either of my radiator fan relays.
. . .As one can tell, I am in need of enlightenment as none of my books even mention this fan relay.
. . . . . . in advance, thank to 1 & all. . .chas.